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VACATION DAYS 



IN 



HAWAII AND JAPAN 



BY 

CHARLES M.TAYLOR, Jr^ 



^ 



WITH OVER ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS 



^ 



PHILADELPHIA 

George W. Jacobs & Co, 

1898 



184^39 



Copyright, 1898, by George W. Jacobs & Co. 



1833. 



PREFACE. 



This journal is the outline of a three months' tour 
in the Hawaiian Islands and Japan, supplemented by 
camera and sketch book, by means of which I have 
attempted to give souie idea of the principal features 
of these countries, whose mountains and valleys, 
temples and images, castles and palaces excite our 
admiration or wonder at every turn. In the journey 
through Japan, I lead the reader b}^ no beateu tracks, 
but, after visiting the most important cities, penetrate 
far into the heart of the countr}^ aud to districts hith- 
erto untraveled by English-speaking people, where we 
have a passing glimpse of tlie native in his primitive 
mode of living, unaffected by the progress of modern 
civilization, and the opening of the ports to the outside 
world. 

I am indebted to my little red-backed guide book 
(Murray's Handbook of Japan) for information on 
mau}^ points connected with this trip, also for histori- 
cal and legendary accounts of various gods, palaces, 
and temples. 

7 



8 PREFACE. 

To every traveler in a strange land is given an indi- 
vidual experience, wliicli, joined to the impressions of 
other travelers, helps to make a true picture of that 
country — and so I add my mite to the many volumes 
already written, feeling that much still remains unsaid 
regarding the customs, habits, manners, temperaments, 
and traditions of these most interesting people. 

Philadelphia, C. M. T., Jr. 

July I, 1898. 



CONTENTS. 



OFF FOR THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Southern scenes — Fellow-passengers — Difference in time — 
The Negro —Louisiana farms — At the stations - Negro 
cars and waiting rooms— Pecos River Bridge — Stein's 
Pass — Mirage— Bandits' Blunder — Chochise Mountain — 
Los Angeles — Pasadena, 15 

SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 
San Francisco — Places of interest — Chinatown — A prize fight 
— San Jose — Mt. Hamilton— The Lick Observatory — 
Santa Cruz— The " Big Trees " — Monterey and the Del 
Monte Hotel — The Seventeen mile Drive— Chinese fish- 
ermen — On the "Australia," 24 

HONOLULU AND THE NATIVES. 
The voyage— Haleakala— The leper colou}^ — The captain's 
dinner — Koko Head— The harbor of Honolulu — My little 
pistol— A Hawaiian breakfast — Poi — Statistics— Waikiki 
Beach — Sharks — Surf boating— Gathering sea moss — 
Shopping in Honolulu — A Japanese tailor — The fish 
market — Cricket grounds— A "Hula Hula" dance, . . 49 

PLANTATIONS AND MOUNTAINS. 

Second-class cars — Native smokers — Rice plantation — Fields 
of sugar cane — Crushing the cane — Planting cane — 



lO CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Lunch in a cocoanut grove— Pearl City and harbor — 
Pineapple farm— Chinese theatres— Strangers in Hono- 
lulu — Climate— The departure of the "Australia" — To 
the Pali — On the summit — lyadies and the Pali — Punch- 
bowl — Photographing the natives — Poi dog — Crab fish- 
ing, 71 

THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE. 
Off for Hilo— Old Neptune's frolics — Views en voyage — Lanai 
Landing cargo — Temple of Haen — Niulii — Mountain 
waterfalls - Loupahoehoe— Hilo — Unpleasant bedfellows 
— Drive to the crater — Flume bridges — Native jungles — 
lapanese moving — Halfway house — Volcano hotel — 
The crater of Halemaumau — Kilauea — Mauna Kea — 
Walk to the crater— Lava formations — The House of 
Everlasting Fire — Candle tree — Bird's nest fern — Return 
to Hilo — An American circus — Cocoanut Island — Kanaka 
church — Native bathers — Back to Honolulu, 90 

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN. 

Departure from Honolulu — The steamship "China" — Steer- 
age passengers — Punkahas — A morning swim — Birds' 
Island — Collecting fares — Chinese gamblers — Letters of 
introduction — Chopsticks — Yokohama harbor— Chinese 
merchants— Japanese guide — Streets of Yokohama — ^Jap- 
anese theatre — The shampooer — A Jinrikisha ride — ^Jap- 
anese funeral — Mississippi Bay — Negishi— Tea house of 
TvSukimikan, 113 

JINRIKISHA RIDES AND NOVEL EXPERIENCES. 
A Japanese afternoon tea — Shoes in Japan — Yamashita — At 
Mrs. Shimasaki's — The great tattooer — Seeing the " Ele- 



CONTENTS. 1 1 

PAGE. 



phant ' ' — Wooden tickets — Maganechio— The Demi- 
monde—An earthquake —Sitting for our pictures— Along 
the canal, i^y 

KAMAKURA AND ENOSHIMA. 
Kamakura — The Icho tree— Ud-di-jin and Sa di-jin — Temple 
of Hachiman— Onna Ishi and Otoko Ishi — Lotus Pond — 
Daibutsu — Temple of Kwannon — Katase — Food in Japan 
Enoshima — At Kinkiro Inn — Mountain cave— Goddess 
oflyuck — Diver— Japanese money — Statistics, 156 

TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 

Off for Tokyo — City walls— Imperial passport — Atago yama 
— En route for Nikko — Cryptomerias — Reiheishi Kaido 
— Nikko — Temples and temples — Photographs— The 
Great Gate — "Sleeping Cat" — Koshin — Wind and 
thunder devils — Sacred stable — Red Bridge -Inari, God- 
dess of Rice— Suminohi— Nantai zan— Dai^^a gawa — 
Images of Amida— Temple of Jokoji — God of Children — 
To Ashio — Dainichi-do — Snake Garden — Pilgrims — 
Buddhist and Shintoist — Chuzenji — Hann3'a and Hodo 
— The A'oung prince — Kegon no taki, 171 

IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 
A journey to the interior — Outfit— At the station — Countr}^ 
people — Omiya — In a second class car— Silk-growing dis- 
trict — Annaka — Asama yama — Iwafune-san — Mi3-ozi san 
— Yokogawa — Usui Pass — Tunnels — Karuizawa — Mak- 
ing a bed — A bath — Iwamurata — Chikuma-gawa — Na- 
gano — Zenkoj i — Inarimura-Shimohigano — Bowing— Tan- 
bajegma — Saigawa — ^Japanese x\rtists— A Feast — Pres- 
ents — Silk- weaving mill — Night watchmen, 199 



12 CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 



ON THE ROAD, AKAKURA, NAOKTSU, NIIGATA. 

Akakura— Hot Springs —Bating with chopsticks— A warm 
bath — Blackened teeth — Naoetsu— Kquahzation of labor 
— Umbrellas— Katamachi— The new railroad — Aomigawa 
Kashiwazaki— An inn receipt — Souvenirs —Jinrikisha 
YSites — "Corner" in jinrikishas—Tashiro — Miyamoto — 
Yoita— Floods and freshets— Prayers for clear weather- 
Japanese steamer, 224 

MOUNTAIN ROADS, JINRIKISHA MEN AND RAIN. 

On a Japanese steamer — Aground — Niigata — Change of route 
— Photographing the tea girls— Kameda— A universal 
Panacea— Bad roads — ^Jinrikisha men on a strike — To- 
bacco fields —Yasuda — Tiffin — A curious crowd — Ko- 
matsu — Deep Gully — Agano-gawa — Dangerous road — 
Kuroiwa Pass —Mountain echo — Overturned jinrikisha — 
Tsugawa — Pipes at night — ^Japanese toothbrushes — 
Spectacles — Too much rain — Wax tree — Cedars and 
cryptomerias— Torii Pass —Worse and worse— Nozawa — 
Wakamatsu — Tabanematsu tunnel — Bridge of boats — 
Crossing the bridge— Bange, 243 

FROM BANGE TO SENDAI. 

Definition of a " Gentleman " — School children — Freshet — 
Crossing the Okawa — Carrying bundles — Wakamatsu — 
Japanese doorways — More shrines — Takinozawa Pass and 
mountain — Kutsukake — Lake Inawashiro — More rain — 
Yamagata — The anti-express — Naka3^ama Pass — Freshets 
again — Motomiy a — Curious people — Japanese versus 
American customs, 263 



CONTENTS. 13 



PAGE. 



FI.OOD AND FRESHET. 

Sendai— An "American" room— A terrible night— Bridges 
swept away— We abandon the northern trip — Yaita— 
Rivers still rising— Impassable roads— A long wet walk 
— Jinrikishas at last - Crowded inns— A hopeless prospect 
—Disease among the natives— Crossing the Kinugawa— 
In the rapids— Coolie back— The Furussata— Ravages of 
the storm— Holding the train— En route for Nikko, . . 280 

TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 

We leave Nikko— Tokyo by night— Novel sights— Fencing 
school — Asakusa Park — Shiba temple — Cherry banks of 
Koganei — Master wrestler— Carrying a god — The To- 
kaido — Valley of the Sakawa gawa — Gotemba — Fuji- 
3^ama — Image of Kwannon — Nagoya — Shinachu hotel — 
Many merchants — Great earthquake of 1 891 — Husking 
rice boats — Cormorant fishing — Ibuki-yama — Lake Biwa 
— Vestiges of the storm, 294 

THE CAPITAL OF FORMER DAYS. 

A steamer on Lake Biwa— Kyoto —Shops — Queer combina- 
tions — The Daibutsu— Great bells of Japan — Punishing 
children — Burning the body — Advertisements of medi- 
cines—Servants of the gods - Supplicating the gods— Sell- 
ing children — Tsumiya, Nakagawa-Tokumon — Kiyomizu 
temple — ^Junk trees — Tea culture — Kinkakuji—Chion-in 
— The 33,333 images of Kwannon — Temple of Inari, . - 315 

KOBE, OSAKA, AND NARA. 

A Geisha dance — Losses by flood — On to Kobe — Nunobiki 
waterfalls — Iwamoto, the bamboo worker— Osaka — Sat- 



14 CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

suma ware — A wrestling match — Cotton fields — The 
first-class compartment — Nara — Avenue of lanterns — 
Tame deer — Temple of Kasuga no Miya — Daibutsu — 
Nara ningyo — Return to Kyoto — Sobei-Kinkozan — 
Young ladies' school— Kyoto castle — Imperial palace, . 335 

IvAST DAYS IN JAPAN. 

Miyanoshita — An odd shampooer — Fujiya hotel — Bamboo 
canes and American climate— Hot Springs — An Ameri- 
can breakfast — Dogashima — Yumoto — Yokohama — Fare- 
well to Japan — On board the "Coptic" — At sea— The 
1 80th meridian — Died at sea— First sight of land — 
Cricket — A candy pull — Honolulu — 800 Coolies — Leav- 
ing Honolulu— Betting on the pilot — San Francisco — 
Snowstorm — Summit Station— The " Rockies "—Chicago 
— Philadelphia, 350 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



OFF FOR THE PACIFIC COAST. 

" And he who's doomed o'er waves to roam, 
Or wander on a foreign strand, 
Will sigh whene'r he thinks of home 
And better love his native land." 

— Lcggett. 

Southern scenes — Fellow passengers — Difference in time — The 
Negro — lyouisiana farms — At the stations — Negro cars and waiting 
rooms — Pecos River Bridge— Stein's Pass — Mirage — Bandits' Blunder 
— Chochise Mountain — Los Angeles — Pasadena. 



&' 



We leave Philadelphia, May 25th, 1896, by the Pied- 
mont h\x Line, en route for Los Angeles, via New 
Orleans. The heat is intense, and we find that there 
are drawbacks to even the most perfect conditions of 
railway travel in such weather. 

The country is flat, and there is little to interest one 
in the typical Southern villages and small towns that 
glide by in rapid succession. Here and there wooden 
shanties peep out from the shade of dense thickets, with 
little pickaninnies rolling in the doorways, while groups 
of colored children, clad in blue homespun, with bare 
arms and legs, basking in the sun, stare at us wonder- 

15 



1 6 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

iiigl}' as we fly b3\ The sun is so hot! Are they try- 
ing to bleach themselves, I query, into a closer resem- 
blance to their white brothers and sisters ? 

The road, on either side, is bordered by miles npon 
miles of reddish brown soil, more esp^.ciall}^ in Georgia 
and the Carolinas. I am told that it is rich and pro- 
ductive, affording abundant opportunities for cotton, 
tobacco, and sugar-cane planting. x'Ys time passes I 
become acquainted with some of m\^ fellow-passengers. 
One is an Englishman, returning from a trip to '' dear 
old England,'' another a Frenchman, also homeward 
bound after a visit to his native country. As I have 
traveled in both countries, we have many interesting 
conversations. On arriving^ at New Orleans, both cor- 
dially invite me to visit tlieir liomes, assuring me that 
it will give them much pleasure to show me the many 
places of interest in and around the city. I decline 
their hospitality^ reluctantlv, as I am hastening on to 
the Pacific coast. A voung lieutenant in our regular 
army, stationed in Arizona, entertains us with stories 
of camp life and adventures with the Indians. 

A welcome shower has just fallen, the air is fresh 
and pure, and we begin to feel like new beings. We 
are making good time over a smooth, well-ballasted 
road, with little or no jolting. The ever-attentive 
porter has informed me that I will find it " red hot " 
crossing Texas ; he is visibly relieved when I tell him 



OFF FOR THE PACIFIC COAST. 1 7 

that a reduction of fifteen or twenty pounds in weight 
will not leave me a skeleton. The usual venders of 
newspapers, magazines, novels, and gumdrops pass 
through the car at regular intervals. 

We set back our watches an hour at Atlanta, Ga., an 
hour more at El Paso, Texas, and still another hour 
when we reach California. These changes represent 
Eastern, Middle, and Pacific time : thus " slow old 
Philadelphia," in at least one portion of the globe, may 
be said to beat her usual record. 

The scenery throughout Louisiana is picturesque. 
On every side may be seen enchanting woodland and 
water views, with vistas beyond, very tempting to an 
artist's eye. Many times I am filled with regret that I 
may not stop here with sketch-book and camera, and 
gather a harvest for future use. The negro plays no 
unimportant part in this panorama ; here he may be 
said to live his natural life — a life of poverty, judging 
by the cabins in sight ; yet I am told that colored labor 
is employed here at wages averaging at from fifteen to 
eighteen dollars a month, and during the two months 
of cane cutting at from one dollar to a dollar and 
twenty-five cents a day. They are, however, a happy 
and jolly race, though careless and improvident, some 
of them growing to an enormous size, as I perceive in 
the towns and at the stations, where they are always in 
evidence, lounging in the sunshine, 



l8 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

The soil in this State produces grass, cotton, and 
grain equally well ; in many fields corn may be seen 
ranging from six to eight feet " long," as the Japanese 
would say. For miles we are surrounded by these 
cornfields with scarcely a break ; at intervals a cotton 
field appears, but corn predominates. After leaving 
Bouef, we see also the sugar cane, and learn that we 
are in one of the richest belts in the country for the 
growth of this product. The farms of this section are 
well kept and prosperous, but the houses are poor and 
neglected. Little or no live stock is raised, which is 
strange, as the sugar cane which is left to waste, after 
being cut and stripped, could be used profitably as food 
for cattle. 

As there is only one " through " westward bound 
train from New Orleans, there is much excitement 
when it arrives at the various stations ; the whole vil- 
lage turns out in its best array. The cowboy, in his 
red flannel shirt, trousers tucked in his top-boots of 
raw hide, his sombrero shifted to one side, and pistol 
in belt, is conspicuously picturesque. 

The train is quickly surrounded by eager inquirers 
for mail and news, and many a heart beats with nnex- 
pected joy or sadness as it speeds on its way again. 

There is a separate waiting room at these stations 
with its placard " For Negroes " ; cars also, especially 
provided for negro travel, are attached to our train ; 



OFF FOR THE PACIFIC COAST. 19 

thus is the line of demarcation between the two races 
never allowed to fade out. 

As we proceed, the character of the country changes 
materially ; the soil is poorer, the crops noticeably 
less. Now a field of cane or cotton is rarely seen ; 
only poor pasture land, which grows ever more barren 
and sand3^ 

Jacksonville is our last station in the State of Louis- 
iana ; it is two hundred and fort3^-six miles west of New 
Orleans. We have covered this distance in ten hours. 

Six miles east of Orange we enter the State of 
Texas. 

We have just left San Antonio, Texas, five hundred 
and seventv-one miles west of New Orleans. We are 
much entertained by observing the various types of 
Western life at the stations, and the old-fashioned 
turnouts, each with its '' bony broncho " attached. 
Very pathetic is the appearance of some of these 
dwellers in the wilderness; no jingle of chains, no 
gold or silver mounted harness is here, or fashionable 
pose, or " latest " costume. 

On either side of us are large tracts covered with 
natural grass and a bush named mesquite, which grows 
from a height of from two to ten feet. This bush 
affords both shade and food for cattle, producing a 
berry similar to the locust ; the cattle like it, and it is 
fattening. 



j?0 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

I enjoy greatly the conversation of the owner of a 
large ranch, who has had much experience in gold- 
mining and cattle-raising. He is quite social, and his 
tales of the dangers and hardships of early Western 
life would fill a volume. Although the railroad passes 
through large cattle ranches, we are unlikely to see 
any cattle, as the herds generally seek quarters as far 
as possible from signs of civilization. 

An abundance of rice of excellent quality is raised 
here. 

The day is oppressively hot ; great clouds of dust are 
driven through the car windows, and the thermometer 
overhead in the shade registers ioo° at 4.30 p. m. 

We are approaching Comstock Station, one thou- 
sand five hundred and fifty-six feet above the level 
of the sea, and will soon cross the famous Pecos River 
Bridge, the second bridge in the world in height. It 
spans the Pecos River in Texas, and is one of the 
finest illustrations of modern skill. 

The enormous structure rises to a height of three 
hundred and twenty-eight feet, and measures two 
thousand one hundred and eighty-four feet from end 
to end. Its greatest breadth, in the centre, is eight 
hundred feet. I have taken several photographs of 
this marvel of man's ingenuity. The train moves over 
it very slowly, as there is but a single track, with a 
footpath on either side. 



OFF FOR THE PACIFIC COAST. 21 

There is little to interest one in to-day's travel ; 
nothing bnt barren wastes and deserts ; sand — sand — 
sand everywhere. 

It is 7.30 P. M., the snn is shining vigorously, and 
although our altitude is two thousand one hundred 
and six feet, the temperature in our car is ninety-eight 
degrees. 

The passengers are social and agreeable, and time 
passes pleasantly in conversation, games, and occa- 
sional songs. 

Last night, at twenty minutes past one, we passed 
over the highest point on the route, an elevation of 
five thousand and eighty-two feet. 

The heat is still intense, registering one hundred 
and four degrees in the shade. This, combined 
with the dust that drifts continually through the car, 
gives us all the appearance of actors in a minstrel 
show. 

As we approach the celebrated Stein's Pass we have 
an interesting experience ; from the car platform may 
be seen one of the finest mirages that it is possible to 
witness. It is a picture of the ocean, with the waves 
rolling and dashing on the sandy beach. We have 
several of these optical illusions, of various characters. 
Sometimes the water is blue, sometimes green or 
yellow, as the rays of the sun happen to strike it. 
Then, as if by magic, we have a heavy downpour 



22 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

of real water, a rare event here in the desert, and 
more than acceptable. 

Several months ago an overland west-bonnd passen- 
ger train was '' held np ^' at this pass by bandits, who 
side-tracked one of the cars, snpposed to carr}^ coin, 
and allowed the others to proceed. The robbers blew 
open the iron safe, only to discover that they had 
chosen the wrong car ; the treasure sped safely on to 
its destination. 

Along the mountain-side can be seen the old over- 
land wagon trail, used before the great iron belt con- 
nected the West with the East. On the left is Chochise 
Mountain. Looking at its topmost peak, one may 
easily discern tlie perfect profile of a human f^ice ; the 
head appears to rest upon the summit, and look 
heavenward, as though satisfied to gaze thus forever. 
Tradition says that the chief of the Chochise tribe is 
buried there, and the profile is an eternal and loft\^ 
monument to the niemory of a noble warrior. 

I could write indefinitely of the legends and strange 
stories thus spun off by the hour, and listened to b}' 
the passengers with unwearying interest. The time 
passes rapidly, and almost before we are aware of it 
we are in the city of Los Angeles. 

With only a passing glimpse of the chief city of 
Southern California, I hasten away from its beautiful 
gardens, its palms and C3^press groves, its streets bor- 



OFF FOR THE PACIFIC COAST. 23 

dered witli graceful pepper and stately eucalyptus trees, 
and, passing the many vineyards outside the city, speed 
on to Pasadena, which is my first stopping- place. 

Even here, although the wild and picturesque region 
beyond the city limits, the charming drives and fra- 
grant orange groves tempt one to linger, we indulge 
in a breathing spell of a few days only, making several 
short trips in the neighborhood, and are again en route, 
this time for San Francisco. 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 

San Francisco- -Places of interest — Chinaton-n — Prize fight — San 
Jose — Mt, Hamilton — The Lick Observator\^ — Santa Crnz — " Big 
Trees " — Monterey and the Del Monte Hotel — .Seventeen-mile Drive 
— Chinese fishermen — On the " Anstralia." 

We are in San Francisco. How odd and interesting 
the city appears — bnilt on the hills, with the cable cars 
running up and down its steep streets that remind one 
of toboggan slides ! 

There are many interesting places to visit in and 
around the cit}^ — Sutro's Garden ; Cliff House, with the 
Seal Rocks in full view from its piazza ; the Presidio ; 
Golden Gate Park ; the sliip3^ards ; markets, where 
only one can realize the profusion and perfection of 
California fruits. 

A visit to Chinatown is not the least of our curious 
experiences. It is hardl}^ necessar}^ to say that we 
make our arrangements to see the Celestial shopkeepers 
at night. 

Chinatown has a population of twenty-five thousand 

souls, of whom six hundred are women, and of these, 

at least five hundred of more than doubtful morals. 

We start out one evening with a good guide, who leads 

24 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 



25 



as first to the most noted Joss House in " 'Frisco." 
We ascend two flights of stairs, and pass through a 
high and elaborately-carved doorway, where we are met 
by an important Chinese official, the sole medium of 
communication with the great god's eyes and ears. 
Proceeding to the main altar, we behold the " god of 




California Street, from Nob Hill. 



all gods " in his temple. He is of homel}^ appearance, 
painted red, and decked with gold and silver, spears, 
bows and arrows, and surrounded b}^ emblems of peace 
as well as implements of war. In his left hand are 
lighted candles of wax, and many kinds of incense fill 



26 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

the air with spicy odors. A small gold-plated wooden 
horse stands at the god's right hand ; npon it he is snp- 
posed to take his daily rides. Fresh tea is constantly 
placed before the idol, that his godliness may drink 
when he is thirsty. The gnide asks if we wish special 
offerings made to the god for onr safe jonrney and for 
protection dnring onr absence from home. Upon onr 
signs of assent the old priest performs a ceremony with 
an air of great satisfaction. After mnch praying, with 
intervals of silence, before the wooden god, w^e are in- 
formed that a *' special record " has been made, and that 
all things will favor onr nndertaking. The room is 
highly ornamented with w^ood-carvings and silken dra- 
peries, and other characteristic decorations. Before 
leaving we make a small offering to the priest in retnrn 
for his good ofEces in onr behalf 

We are conducted next to a drng store, in which we 
find a collection of herbs supposed to cure all diseases. 
The walls are lined with innumerable drawers, each 
bearing a label in Chinese script. They are opened for 
our edification, and a medley of dried snakes, toads, 
locusts, frogs, roaches, and the like meets our eyes. 
These inviting specimens are prescribed for and admin- 
istered to patients for their various ailments. We are 
not informed how many die in consequence. 

Our next visit is to a gambling den. Gambling is 
permitted in this quarter by the authorities. I believe 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 27 

that " faii-tau " is the only game prohibited by law. 
Miserable-looking creatures surround the tables here, 
and venture small amounts with an eagerness worthy 
of a better cause. This is the nightl}/ experience of 
these poor souls, who are ignorant of anything beyond 
a present existence. 

Here is a pawnbroker's shop, with many strange 
things on its walls and shelves ; besides old watches 
and jewelry, here are objects whose use no human 
beiiig could explain. These articles have been left 
here by poor wretches for the loan of a few nickels. 
The owner of the shop is fat and jolly looking; who- 
ever loses in these transactions, it is quite evident that 
he is not the sufferer. 

We now enter a goldsmith's place, where rings, 
breastpins, cuff-buttons, and other articles of jewelry 
are manufactured. If one wishes a piece made after a 
particular pattern he orders it, the price is fixed, and 
the article is delivered when finished. Should the 
purchaser grow weary of his bargain he may return it 
to the manufacturer, who will allow him full value for 
the gold, retaining only the price of his time and 
labor. 

Crossing the street, we find ourselves in the finest 
cafe, the Delmonico of Chinatown. We ascend to the 
second floor, which is the aristocratic portion of the 
building, and enter a spacious apartment, whose walls 



28 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

are profusely decorated with carved paneling. Fancy 
chairs and capacious tables are placed about the room. 
We seat ourselves at one of the tables, and are served 
by a Chinese waiter with an assortment of dainty 
dishes, but we do not know what we are eating ; the 
food may be a concoction of choice morsels of rat, cat, 
or dog, or a combination of all three. Onl}^ the better 
class of Chinamen use this room ; others are served on 
the first floor. 

I have long wished to see a genuine Chinese opium 
den, and now my wish is gratified ; we are led b}' our 
guide to a dark, musty place containing many wooden 
beds, upon which are stretched out or huddled together 
the emaciated forms of the slaves of this vile habit. 
For twenty-five cents one can obtain fifteen cents worth 
of opium and lodging in one of these dens to sleep off 
the effect of the drug. 

The opium habit is so general in this section that 
merchants, druggists, and other tradesmen have beds 
and opium pipes in the corners of their stores and 
offices. It is not uncommon, on the occasion of a 
friendly visit, for the host to ask his guest to take a 
pipe of opium and remain over night. We see an in- 
stance of this kind in the rooms of a Chinaman and his 
wife; two friends have come to visit them, and here 
they lie, all four completely stupefied, and under the 
influence of the drug till morning. 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 29 

Through special courtesy shown to our guide we are 
permitted to enter a Chinese theatre by the back door, 
thus obtaining a sight of the green room and the 
actors' quarters. In the former, the actors, who are all 
men, are painting their faces and dressing themselves 
in such hideous effects as to suggest a nightmare to my 
unaccustomed American sensibilities. The rooms in 
which the actors live, eat, and sleep are indescribably 
loathsome, situated far underground, beneath the 
theatre, and of the smallest dimensions — four feet by 
six by five. They are filthy and malodorous. 

Now we are directly back of the scenes. What a 
medley of queer things and people ! Painted and 
masked faces peer at us from unrecognizable objects; 
soldiers, native and other characters stand out from a 
jumble of incongruous surroundings — a picture of 
Hades and its inhabitants. 

We pass on to the stage, where chairs have been 
placed for us. The audience, composed of Chinese men 
and women, are in the pit and gallery. Such dancing, 
shouting, and jumping, such grotesque acting could not 
be surpassed by a band of Zulu warriors. In an hour 
we have enough of this performance, and leave the 
theatre, the deafening noise of the cymbals and brass 
drums ringing in our ears long afterward. I suppose 
the audience numbered about two hundred. 

How delightful to be put in the frcvsh air again after 



30 



VACATION DAYvS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



the heavy atmosphere and the vile smoke from the 
pipes ill tlie theatre ! But we congratulate ourselves 
too soon. As we enter a neighboring grocery store a 
stronger and more objectionable odor greets our olfac- 
tories. You could never guess what this store sells to 
the people of Chinatown. Somewhat costly articles, 




Street Scene in Chinatown, Cal. 

too ! Hens' eggs imbedded in mud, and really im- 
ported from China. 

Think of the delicious soup made from them ! We 
are assured that this soup, made of eggs three or four 
months old, is a great delicacy. Here are also salt 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 3 1 

fisli, sharks' fins, dried oysters, seaweed, and various 
vegetables, all in a state of decomposition and exhaling 
odors anything but pleasant. The jars of preserves, 
jams, pickles, and spices are delusions and snares, 
treacherous to the most confiding epicure. We are 
told that these grocers import all their goods from 
China. 

The Cliinese, both at home and abroad, are clannish, 
always giving the preference to home productions. 

Chinese workmen, such as shoemakers, clothiers, 
etc., receive from a dollar to a dollar and twenty-five 
cents a day, and work from 8 A. m. till 9 P. m. ; some 
of them are employed until eleven o'clock at night. 

After three hours spent among their haunts we leave 
the Chinamen, hoping that some day a liberal contribu- 
tion will be made to send the hard-working missionary 
into their midst, to try at least to reform these forlorn 
and deluded creatures, who bear so little resemblance 
to God's handiwork. 

Great posters and placards on walls and fences, cs 
w^ell as unlimited matter in the daily papers, announce 
that the contest between James J. Corbett, the " Cham- 
pion of the World," and Thomas Sharkey, is to take 
place at the Alechanics' Pavilion, San Francisco, on the 
2d of June. The affair is under the auspices of the 
''National Athletic Club of Physical Culture, for the 
benefit of the Children's Hospital." 



2,2 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

I ask how it is that prize-fighting is allowed in a 
well-regulated city like San Francisco, and why for the 
benefit of the Children's Hospital ? I am told that 
prize-fighting is permitted by law, on condition that a 
certain portion of the proceeds is devoted to charity; in 
this case the amount set apart for the hospital is from 
two hundred and fifty to five hundred dollars. So the 
government closes its eyes to one of the most brutal 
entertainments of the age. 

As some ten thousand or more spectators are to be 
present, I finally compromise with my conscience, and, 
^nelding to my curiosity, decide to join the throng that 
will fill the vast pavilion to witness the match for the 
national belt. 

Purchasing a ticket of admission for three dollars, I 
find myself in a good position, overlooking the great 
mass of men — with one exception. I perceive a young 
girl sitting close to the raised platform, and learn later 
that she is a reporter for one of the city newspapers. 

Suddenly a bell rings loudly, and a man of large 
proportions appears upon the platform. The great 
throng becomes as silent as the grave. However, he 
announces only the lesser satellites of the ring, and 
two young men of light weight, slender forms, and 
brutal faces, step upon the stage. They seem to lack 
intelligence as well as refinement. Time is called, the 
opponents sliake hands, then proceed to fight. Blow 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 33 

after blow is dealt ; after a half-dozen rounds the 
referee declares the bout a " draw," and the men retire, 
having stirred the audience to but little excitement. 

Two manly fellows follow, strong and well built, who, 
after the customary etiquette of the ring, enter upon an 
earnest and vigorous battle ; in the third round one of 
the antagonists plants a well-directed blow upon the 
neck of his adversar}^, with such force that the man 
falls to the ground, and lies there stunned ; at the 
last call he rises with great effort, only to fall back 
again so helplessly that he is assisted from the ring, 
while the victor, descending from the platform, is 
greeted with a tremendous uproar of applause. 

All are now awaiting the champions in breathless 
excitement, but there is much dela}^, and the impatient 
multitude fill the air with vociferous calls and cheers ; 
still they come not. 

Finally, amid deafening applause, the great " Shar- 
key " ascends the platform ; every time the powerful 
athlete bows his friends in the audience respond with 
rousing cheers. He moves quietly to his place in the 
ring and seats himself; his expression is determined 
and confident. 

In a few moments the world-renowned champion, 
"James Corbett," makes his appearance. It is impos- 
sible to describe the tumult that follows. IMen shout 
themselves hoarse; hats, canes, and papers are thrown 
3 



34 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

ill the air, and those whose excitement knows no 
bounds, jump up and down on their chairs. 

At last order is restored, and the great throng 
hushed, yet there are still many delays and prelimi 
naries ; the details must be perfect, for the result of 
this fight will be carried over the wires from west to 
east, and to ever}^ quarter of the globe. 

Everything is now ready, and amid utter silence the 
athletes rise and walk towards each other. They 
stand during a minute of intense stillness, and, look- 
ing over the crowd, the observer is impressed with the 
importance of the occasion. 

The signal is given, and the rivals shake hands ; 
then the battle begins ; hard blows are rapidly ex- 
changed. 

The audience is silent and orderly, the only sounds 
heard being those made by the combatants. At the end 
of three minutes the bell announces a rest, and the tumult 
begins again. Cheers and shouts resound through the 
hall, now for " Corbett," now for " Sharkey. '' 

i\t the tap of the bell the champions spring to their 
feet with the nimbleness of cats. This round is more 
violent than the other ; another rest and a bout. When 
the third round is finished, the blood streaming from 
the face of one of the men, and the great lumps dis- 
figuring the countenance of both, render the spectacle 
utterly revolting. 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 35 

On the fourth and last round they fight furiously 
and savagely, spurred on by the large sum at stake 
and the fame of the championship. They are so brutal 
in their attacks, and rush on each other with such 
reckless disregard of the rules of the ring that the 
referee is compelled to call in the attending officers to 
separate them, which is not accomplished without great 
difficulty. The whole affair is so disgraceful that it is 
brought to a close by the interference of the police. 
The referee announces a " draw." Upon this the noise 
and confusion that ensue are beyond description. I 
doubt if it could be exceeded by the roar of Niagara. 
Swearing, tearing of programs, yells, smashing of 
chairs, shouts of "Bribery!" "A lie!" "A cheat!" 
mingle with groans and hisses. 

It is long before the great sea of angry and disap- 
pointed people, still muttering threats and impreca- 
tions, slowly vacates the hall. 

As I am the last to leave, I look around upon the 
confusion and wreck of chairs and benches, and realize 
that I have been to a prize fight, and that brutalit}^ and 
barbarism did not die out with the eighteenth century. 

We have planned a trip to San Jose, the Lick Ob- 
servatory, Santa Cruz, and Monterey, previous to our 
departure for the Hawaiian Islands and Japan. 

San Jose is one of the loveliest of California\s cities. 
The hotel to which we are driven is a fine building, 



36 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Spacious and elegant, situated in a delightful grove, 
with a lawn of exquisite beauty ; a perfect haven of 
rest to the tired traveler. The rooms are comfortable, 
and the service that of a first-class hotel. 

We have engaged seats on the stage for the drive to 
and from the Lick Observatory. 

At 12.30 P. M., on the day following our arrival, the 
stage, drawn by four well-kept black horses, appears at 
the door of our hotel, and we take our places therein 
in company with others of our party ; the whip is 
cracked, the reins tightened, and we are off on a jour- 
ney of fifty-four miles. 

For some distance the dust plays a prominent part 
with passengers as well as landscape, but there are few 
complaints, as this is the inevitable accompaniment of 
California drives, and we are all enthusiastic over the 
treat in store for us. 

Now we ascend, now descend by a well-graded car- 
riage road, the view growing finer as we gradually 
increase our altitude. 

In the distance the fields of San Jose look like a 
checker-board, while the houses seem like specks on 
the picture. 

When we have driven ten miles we stop to change 
horses and take some refreshment, starting again in a 
short time with renewed speed. The country is more 
and more interesting. Far off in the distance we can 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 37 

see Mt. Hamilton, upon whose topmost peak the Lick 
Observatory is situated. 

It is nearly five o'clock in the afternoon ; we stop at 
a small hotel, change horses, and partake of a sub- 
stantial supper. The hotel is at the base of Mt. Ham- 
ilton, and we have still a drive of seven miles before 
us ere we reach our destination. With strong horses 
we start once more on our upward journey. The road 
is a marvel of modern engineering. 

Higher and higher we ascend ; our trusty horses 
never falter or stumble. These horses are used only 
on this winding road ; thus accuracy of step and sure- 
ness of foot is secured, and there is little or no danger 
of accident. 

What grandeur surrounds us ! Far away on the 
right and left the tops of adjacent mountains are 
visible ; close by us a tall pine tree shoots out from the 
side of the mountain, overlooking the deep caiion 
below; in its topmost branch an eagle, jealous of her 
location, has built her nest where she may rear her 
young undisturbed. Another turn in the road, and we 
are in the presence of one of Nature's grandest pictures. 

From the very edge of the path we can overlook the 
great caiion fully three thousand feet beneath. I 
shudder thinking of our fate, if one of the horses 
should stumble, or a wheel of the coach give way ! 
But a happier inspiration tells me that it would mean 



38 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

only the change from our mortal to a heavenly 
state. 

On and on we go, till it seems that the mountain has 
no summit. We do not reach it until we have attained 
an altitude of four thousand four hundred and forty- 
four feet. Meanwhile the road has become quite narrow 
— only wide enough for one vehicle. 

We are now so high that we have a magnificent view 
of the surrounding country ; the finest prospect in this 
region, and one which is considered the chief attraction 
of the drive. 

At last we have reached the summit, having made 
three hundred and forty-seven turns in the road from 
the base of the mountain, a distance, as I have said, of 
seven miles. 

We leave the stage with aching joints^ and enter the 
great observatory, wliose fame is so world-wide that it 
is unnecessary for me to give any description of it here. 

As it is too early in the evening to view the planets 
through the wonderful telescope, we spend the inter- 
vening time on the roof of the observatory. I feel that 
no words of mine can adequately describe the scene be- 
fore us. The setting sun casts a golden and crimson 
glow over the landscape ; the great masses of cloud far 
below us seem like the boundless sea, with here and 
there stupendous breakers rolling and tumbling in the 
glory of this vivid and translucent flame. It is awe-in- 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 39 

Spiring. All about us is silent and still. I feel the 
omnipotence of the Divine Master ! A sense of remote- 
ness from the active bustling world overpowers one — a 
feeling of unreality. Resting here at this immense 
height, I feel 

" Like one who wraps the drapery of his couch about him 
And lies down to pleasant dreams." 

Aye, wondrous visions ! Shall I ever forget the spec- 
tacle ! 

The evening advances, and the hour is favorable. 
We look through the great telescope at the planets 
Jtipiter and Saturn. Yes, we gaze through the largest 
telescope in the world ! How great the privilege ! 
The heavens are unveiled to us in all their glory ! 

One of the professors connected with the observa- 
tory gives us an interesting account of the planets now 
visible. We spend several hours with the professor and 
the wonderful glass, then start on our return down the 
mountain. The moon now appears in all her glory to 
lighten the dangerous way, and add to our confidence. 
Thus we, too, are favored by Divine Providence, even as 
the Israelites of old, while crossing the desert. 

As the horses trot down the '^teep and winding wa}^, 
it requires but little effort of the imagination to feel 
that we are floating or flying through the air, instead 
of riding in a wagon with hard, inflexible springs. 
Our hearts beat quickly as we approach the turns in 



40 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

the road, and a sense of relief follows as each one is 
ronnded in safety. 

Snrely we nuist be near level gronnd now, for the 
trees, for the first time since we started, stretch ont their 
long, black branches far above onr heads. Yes, we have 
reached the plain, and here is the hotel at the foot of 
Mt. Hamilton. 

We shonld thank onr Creator that safet}^ was with 
us ; bnt being of eartlil}^ mold, we are more inclined 
to be grateful to our driver for deliverance from danger. 
The descents and ascents of the afternoon are grad- 
ually retraced. A dense mist surrounds us, obscuring 
the view, and rendering this part of the drive uninter- 
esting. 

We reach the Hotel Vendome at 1.30 A. i\i., and soon 
after retire to bed, to live over in dreamland the experi- 
ence of a happy da3\ 

We leave San Jose at 10.17 the following morning 
for Santa Crnz, the Cit}^ of the Hoh^ Cross. Upon 
arriving, we go directU^ to our hotel, which is beauti- 
fully situated, overlooking the placid ba}^ of Montere3\ 

Santa Cruz is a small cit}^ of not more tlian seven 
thousand souls ; its pleasures are naturally confined to 
sea-bathing, sailing, fishing, and last, but not least, flirt- 
ing and love-making. 

There are several delightful drives and walks here- 
about ; the most interesting are the '' Cliffs " and the 



gOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 4^ 

picturesque road along tlie San Lorenzo River and 
ravine to the " Big Trees." 

A morning stroll to the '' Cliffs " more thau repays 
us. The wild, rocky coast, with the huge waves dash- 
ing constantly against it is a delight to the artist's soul. 

The drive to tlie " Big Trees," along the bank of the 
San Lorenzo and through a rugged ravine, is extremely 
picturesque. 

The orrove of the " BIq: Trees " is about six miles 
from the town. Shortl\^ after leaving the hotel we 
plunge abruptly into a wild forest ; on every side are 
tall and stately redwood, pine, and poplar trees, whose 
o^reat branches rise far above our heads. Some of the 
trees attain to a height of from one to two hundred feet, 
not merely one here and there among trees of smaller 
growth, but hundreds that are massive and lofty. 

Now we ford the river, and in a few minutes reach 
the grove of '^ Big Trees." 

What solemn grandeur looms up here ' As we pene- 
trate the forest we are surrounded b}^ giants whose 
ao^es number amono; the thousands. 

The most prominent among them are : '^ The Giant," 
measuring 60 feet in circumference and 300 feet in 
height; " General Fremont," 46 feet in circumference 
and 275 feet in height; "Jumbo," 48 feet in circumfer- 
ence and 270 feet in height; ''General Grant," 56 feet 
in circumference and 300 feet in height : '' Daniel Web- 



42 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

ster," 40 feet in circumference and 275 feet in height; 
" Y. M. C. A." group, 78 feet in circumference, 300 feet 
high ; " Ingersoll's Cathedral," 95 feet in circumfer- 
ence, 300 feet high. 

I could mention many more, but the above list will 
serve to give an idea of the forest of '' Big Trees." 

We remain four days in Santa Cruz, then wend our 
way to that most famous of all California resorts, the 
Del Monte Hotel at Monterey. 

The hotel is only half a mile from the station, where 
we find a comfortable coach with four good horses wait- 
ing to take passengers thither. 

Our room on the second floor is pleasantly situated, 
well furnished, and comfortable, with bath and all con- 
veniences. 

Having freed ourselves from the dust of travel, we 
roam about the extensive and beautiful grounds. The 
hotel stands in the centre of a tract of one hundred and 
forty acres of lawn and woodland. It is the largest 
hotel on the Pacific coast and perfect in all its appoint- 
ments. It is impossible, in words, to do justice to this 
mass of grandeur and magnificence, one of the most 
beautiful spots I have ever beheld. Here are hundreds 
of lovely bowers, picturesque flower-beds, with every 
kind of blossom perfuming the air, great trees with 
wide-spreading branches shading velvety lawns ; birds 
filling the air with melody, and beautiful women niov- 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 43 

ing about tlie spacious halls aud waudering among the 
shady groves. Music entrances the soul and ideal com- 
fort abounds everywhere. 

The scene gives one the idea of a little world, includ- 
ing all the treasures of the universe. 

At night the gayety is at its height. The dance in 
the vast ball-room, where among the throng of brilliant 
costumes may be seen the latest creations of Worth ; 
the billiard tables in the ladies' parlor, surrounded by 
expert men and women pla^^ers ; ten-pin alle3\s, conver- 
sation and card-rooms, smoking dens, the nooks on the 
piazzas where the electric light has no admission and 
the ardent lover may plead his cause before a Venus 
of modern fashion ; all are upon a magnificent scale. 
The hotel is capable of accommodating a thousand 
guests. 

Monterey is about to celebrate the semi-centennial 
anniversary of the settlement of California, 1 846-1896. 
This is the 3d of July ; the festivities are to be held on 
the 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th of the month. 

A walk to the town assures one that something un- 
usual is going ou; a busier place could hardly be found. 
Shopkeepers, tradesmen, and others are zealously en- 
gaged in draping bunting and mounting flags. Every 
inhabitant, old and young, is preparing for his or her 
share in the celebration. Every store and house in the 
place is gay with the national colors. 



44 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Monterey is a small place — so small, in fact, that I 
would not hesitate to call it a village, and even that on 
no very large scale. It was settled by Mexicans, and 
the houses are small and either frame or adobe ; they 
are washed or painted white, which gives the city a 
clean appearance. 

Many Mexicans, with their sallow faces shaded by 
wide-brimmed sombreros, are here, standing in groups 
at the street corners discussing the approaching holi- 
days. 

Saturday, July 4th. — This is the first day of the 
celebration. We are on hand in good season. 

First on the programme is a naval manoeuvre by the 
men-of-war at anchor in the bay, the '' Philadelphia " 
and the monitor ^' Monadnock." At twelve o'clock 
there is a grp ''ring of cannon, witnessed by a large 
assembly o ^ *^ beach and edge of the town. 

When the . ' ave died away the crowd 

moves to the accordance with the pro- 

gramme. Th -6^-^* -— ^ are under the manage- 

ment of the ' -and Parlor, Native Daughters of the 
Golden West." The members of this society head the 
procession, the lady commander on horseback. After 
them come the officers and seamen of the " Philadel- 
phia " and the " Monadnock," followed by cannon and 
artillery. A large float, representing the Goddess of 
Liberty, is received by the people with enthusiasm. 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 45 

Two hundred young girls from the neighboring col- 
leges, dressed in the colors of the Union, march down 
the street, and take their places on a stand built for the 
occasion ; when they are seated they present a true 
living picture of our national flag. Cheer after cheer 
expresses the appreciation of the populace for this novel 
and beautiful tableau. 

When quiet is restored the bands play national airs, 
and appropriate and patriotic addresses are made by 
ladies of the society of the " Native Daughters of the 
Golden West." 

These speeches, historical as well as patriotic, receive 
much applause. 

Hops and dances at the hotels and public halls are 
announced for the evening. A large placard, placed 
conspicuously in the corridor of the Df ' Monte Hotel, 
states that a " Grand Hop " will be gi' ^re. 

About nine o'clock the ball-room is , J to over- 
flowing with fashionably-dressed ladies ar i gentlemen. 
A fine orchestra is awaiting the signal / the master 
of ceremonies, light refreshments are _iced on con- 
venient tables, and the hall is lavishly decorated with 
plants and flowers. 

The music bursts forth, hundreds of feet glide over 
the polished floor, and without any effort one can 
imagine himself transported to fairy-land. 

The music is still ringing in our ears as we enter our 



46 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

room at a late liour, and with its strains ends the 
" Glorious Fourth/' the pride and joy of every true 
American in the West as well as in the East. 

To-day we take the seventeen-mile drive, one of the 
chief attractions of this place. Leaving the hotel at 
two o'clock in the afternoon, with a fine pair of horses, 
we drive through the old town of Monterey, passing 
the first jail, post-ofiice and custom house built in the 
State. These buildings date back to about 1770 A. d. 
Here, too, the first American flag was raised in Cali- 
fornia. 

Leaving Monterey, our road skirts the bay. Off in 
the distance, upon the water's edge, may be seen an 
old Chinese fishing settlement. The Chinamen pack 
their fish in salt, and ship them directl}^ to China; as 
there is a heavy duty on salt, these so-called slow 
Chinese pack the greater part of their barrels with 
salt, the lesser with fish, thus evading the vigilant eyes 
of Uncle Sam's officials. 

We drive through Pacific Grove, a religious settle- 
ment, similar to that at Ocean Grove, New Jersey. 

Now leaving the bay we are on the Pacific Ocean 
beach. What a fine and extensive view ! The great 
rocks jutting out of the water afford resting places for 
thousands of ducks, pelicans, and other wild fowl. 
Here and there are smaller rocks, over which the waves 
dash, throwing their spray high in the air. Several 



SOME SIGHTS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA. 47 

miles farther on are the Seal Rocks, and a drive of 
a mile or more brings us to the end of the peninsula, 
which is called Carniel Point. Here we rest the horses 
and enjoy a beautiful view of country and ocean. 
Cypress trees grow from crevices in the rocks at the 
very edge of the water. 

Our drive is a circuitous one ; when we reach an 
elevation of five hundred feet we can see the Hotel Del 
Monte facing us in the distance, amid its stately groves 
of oak and pine ; a half-hour later we reach its hospit- 
able doors once more, and looking at our watches, find 
that we have been absent just three hours. 

To-morrow, at 8.45 in the morning, we leave this 
gay and interesting spot for San Francisco, going 
directly to the Palace Hotel, where we will remain until 
Saturday, July nth, when our steamer, the " Aus- 
tralia," will sail for the Hawaiian Islands. 

We are anxious to be off, feeling that our greatest 
sight-seeing will begin when we bid adieu to our dear 
America. 

What might befall us the next few months time 
alone can tell. The traveler at all times takes his 
life in his hands ; but at home, or among a strange 
people in foreign lands, or on the pathless sea, we trust 
ever in Him whose loving wisdom orders all things 
well. 

The da}^ of our departure from San Francisco has 



48 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

arrived ; the usual preparations for a long ocean voyage 
have been made. 

At nine o'clock in the morning a carriage awaits us 
in the courtyard of the hotel, and, with steamer trunks, 
chairs, and rugs, we are driven to the Fulsom Street 
pier, where the "Australia" is moored. Our state- 
rooms, comfortable and well ventilated, are on the 
promenade deck. At exactly ten o'clock the whistle 
sounds, the steamer casts off her moorings, and with 
the bustle and confusion of departure, " Good-b^^e " 
and " God bless you," in mau}^ keys, still ringing in 
our ears, we break away from the shore, and find our- 
selves out in the middle of the bay. 

The steamer is to be our little world for the next six 
days. We are cut off from all communication with any 
human beings save those around us ; dependent uj)on 
ourselves and each other. A slight feeling of sadness 
ovei'comes us, and we begin to talk of the loved ones in 
our far-off home. 



HONOLULU AND THE NATIVES. 

The vo\'ag-e— Haleakala — Leper colony — Captain's dinner— Koko 
Head — Harbor of Honolulu — Revenue officers — Hawaiian breakfast — 
Poi— Statistics— Waikiki beach— Sharks — Surf boating — Gathering 
sea moss — Shopping in Honolulu — Japanese tailor — Fish market — 
Cricket grounds — "Hula Hula" dance. 

We glide swiftly and smoothly down the bay and 
through the Golden Gate to the sea ; as soon as we 
meet the waters of the ocean the steamer begins to 
plunge from side to side ; the change from the calm 
bay and clear sky to rough waves and fog is sudden, 
and not very pleasant in its effects. 

One by one the passengers seek their staterooms, 
some from fatigue, others for reasons more apparent. 

An uneventful night, with more or less rolling, car- 
ries us far out to sea ; we learn in the morning that the 
wind has driven us fully twenty-five miles out of our 
course. 

To-day old ocean is more placid, the air drv and 
pleasant. The passengers appear again on deck, and 
good feeling and sociability prevail. We are happy to 
find so many charming and congenial people on board. 
The captain is the jovial personage that we often read 
about ; his good humor and kindness make sunsliine 
4 49 



50 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

wherever he is. We are fortunate enough to have 
seats at his left hand at table, and as there is an un- 
usually agreeable company, meal-time is a season of 
bright and interesting conversation. We also have 
fine appetites for the good things provided by the 
steward, and the danger of becoming sick is more from 
over-eating than from over-rolling of the ship. 

The days are perfect. The ocean is smooth and 
calm, well deserving its name ; its deep purple hue 
spreads as far as the eye can see. 

Every one on board seems well and happy ; games, 
such as pitching quoits, sand bags and the like, fill the 
daylight hours, while the evenings are passed pleas- 
antly in promenades, conversation, music, cards, and 
reading. 

It is a beautiful night, the moon illumines sk}^ and 
sea. The grandeur of the ocean, with its long regular 
waves broken here and there by white caps, fills me 
with awe. As I look upon the boundless scene, perfect 
above and below, my thoughts wander homeward across 
the distance that daily grows greater between us and 
our dear friends in Philadelphia. When we reach the 
Hawaiian Islands we will be about five thousand miles 
from the dearest spot on earth to us. 

The thermometer to-day is eighty degrees in the 
shade at four o'clock in the afternoon. There is little 
happening worthy of note. We see our first whale, a 



HONOLULU AND THE NATIVES. 5I 

fine large fellow, swimming leisurel}^ along, quite near 
the ship, and spouting water at frequent intervals. 
Flying fish are seen in large numbers ; sometimes we 
sail through a school of the pretty creatures, who flut- 
ter about us greatly frightened. 

At breakfast this morning the captain informs us that 
we will have our first sight of land before sunset, so, 
after packing trunks, rugs, etc., we loiter about deck. 
Gazing idly over the waste of waters, and counting the 
gulls that continually follow the ship, I behold one of 
the most beautiful scenes with which an ocean voyager 
can be favored. 

Great clouds are banked upon the left, like mountains 
thousands of feet high, softly tinted by the rays of the 
sun. At this moment the captain asks me if I can see 
the great Haleakala, the largest extinct crater in the 
world, upon the island of Maui. Yes, I see it dis- 
tinctly peeping through the clouds like an enor- 
mous watch tower. Then the island of IMolokai, now 
ten miles distant, comes into view. Apparentl}^ on the 
very edge of the sea rises a small hill. This is the 
Leper settlement. We look through the glasses, strain- 
ing our e3^es to catch a glimpse of the houses, but can 
distinguish nothing ; the horizon and the sea engulf 
them. 

What a weird and awful place to live ! Before them 
extends the boundless ocean, and back of them rise the 



52 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

lofty mountains and precipices of the island. These 
forlorn people are thus held prisoners, access to the out- 
side world being entirely cut off. The Hawaiian 
government provides for all their needs, requiring 
neither rent nor taxes from them, and allows all 
that is possible to render them comfortable and con- 
tented. 

On our right, almost at the bow of the steamer, is the 
island of Oaliu. The city of Honolulu, which is our 
destination, is situated upon this island. We hope to 
arrive about six o'clock this evening. 

On the last day of an ocean voyage it is customary 
for the captain to give a champagne dinner to the 
passengers of the first class. On this occasion I am 
requested to be speaker. As the hour approaches, I 
am escorted to the promenade deck, where the company 
is assembled, each provided with a tin horn, pan, 
bucket, or other resounding instrument. We walk 
into the dining-room in Indian file, and then break into 
uproarious confusion. The noise is almost deafening. 
Speeches are made expressing the appreciation of all 
the passengers for the uniform kindness and considera- 
tion received during the vo^^age. The captain is quite 
overwhelmed by our enthusiasm. 

We can now see Koko Head, a prominent rocky 
peak, at the extreme end of the island of Oahu. As we 
steam nearer, we behold a beautiful picture. The sides 



HONOLULU AND THE NATIVES. 



53 



of the mountain are covered with lava from the extinct 
crater; vegetation has sprung up in the crevices, and 
the sun shining over all, produces a lovely effect of 
wonderful colors. 

At the base of the mountain and along the beach are 
hundreds of tropical trees, such as the algeroba, the 




Shouting Lustily for Nickels." 



palm, cocoanut, and others of rich and luxuriant 
foliage. The first of these yields a bean ten to four- 
teen inches long, which falls when ripe, is dried and 
used as food for cattle. 

We are now passing the Manoa Valley and Waikiki 



54 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Beach. The scenery throughout is rich in color and of 
uncommon beauty. 

There is abundant pasturage back in the valley and 
upon the mountain slopes. 

Looming up before us are Diamond Head and Punch 
Bowl, both extinct craters. 

With indescribable feelings we enter the harbor of 
Honolulu. 

Before reaching the pier we are attracted to the side 
of the steamer b}^ loud calls from the native children, 
and, looking down into the water, see about twenty- 
five bo3'S, ranging from ten to eighteen 3'ears of 
age, quite naked, shouting Instil}^ to us to throw 
nickels to them. We are amazed to see these 
boys dive for the coins. The}" are excellent swim- 
mers and wonderfully expert, invariably catching a 
piece as small as a dime before it can sink to the 
bottom. 

An interesting native and local picture is before 
us. Among the large crowd assembled on the pier to 
receive friends and relatives from the steamer are 
Americans, Englishmen, Portuguese, Kanakas, Japan- 
ese, and Chinese. 

The revenue officers are ver}^ strict at this port in 
regard to two articles — whiskey and fire-arms. As I 
have a little of the former and one piece of the latter 
some suspicion falls on me. 



HONOLUI.U AND THE) NATIVES. 55 

A statement is taken of my name, age, address, and 
general appearance, liow long I expect to remain on the 
islands, and my destination. All this on account of my 
cruel little pistol. The custom house officers inform me 
that if I wish to regain the weapon I must apply at the 
police marshal's office. I reply that I do not desire to 



p"™ 






-jifx^-.^ • ' ^ or the: ■ ' 



._ ^^^%^l^J)s, J 






I 



-^H"";t -;^ - -f ft jkai 




.^#^sU. ^.i.«/4k states \. ^ ^^ 



















ff- ] 



carry it, and that some of my friends who are return- 
ing to the '' States " may take possession of it. This 
seems satisfactory. The islands are under strict mili- 
tary rule, and great precaution is necessary to prevent 
insurrections. 

Before going farther I will briefly describe the prin- 



•56 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



cipal characteristics of the islands we are about to visit. 
The Hawaiian Islands are situated in the west Pacific 
Ocean. They lie between i8° 50' and 22° 20' north 
latitude, between 154° 53' and 160° 15' west longitude 
from Greenwich. The islands are eight in number : 
Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, Kanai, Alalokai, Lanai, Niihau, 
and Kahoolawe. The tliree latter are comparatively 
unimportant. This group was named the Sandwich 
Islands on their discov^ery by Captain Cook, in honor 
of his patron, the Earl of Sandwich, then First Lord of 
the Admiralty. 

The following table may be of interest, although 
I shall go but little into statistics, as the annual 
reports issued b}^ the Hawaiian Government will 
furnish more details than this volume is intended to 
give. 



Island. 



Hawaii, 
Maui, 
Oahu, 
Kanai, . 
Molokai, 
Lanai, . 
Niihau. . 
Kahoolawe, 



Greatest 

Length 

Miles. 


Greatest 

Breadth 

Miles. 


Number 

of 
Square 
Miles. 


90 


IZ 


4,210 


48 


30 


760 


46 


25 


600 


22 


25 


590 


40 


7 


270 


17 


9 


150 


20 


7 


97 


II 


8 


63 



Number 
Acres. 



2,500,000 
400,000 
360.000 
350,000 
200,000 
100,000 
70,000 
30,000 



Population, i tt- i 

Census : highest 

^|- I Klevation 

1890. ^ F'^^t. 



26.784 
17,357 
31.194 
ii>859 
2,632 
174 



13,805 

10,032 

4,060 

4,800 

3,000 

800 

1,450 



HONOLUI.U AND THE NATIVES. 57 

The highest peaks in the Island of Oahu : 

Feet. 
Kaala, 4,030 

Palikea, Waianae Mountains, 3,iii 

Konaliuanui Peak, south of Pali, 3, 106 

Lanihuli Peak, north of Pali, 2,780 

Diamond Head, I^eahi, 762 

Koko Head, 1,206 

Island of Maui : 

Haleakala, 10,032 

Island of Hawaii : 

Mauna Kea 13,805 

Mauna Loa, . 13,675 

Hualalai, » 8,275 

Population, 1890: 

Natives, 34,436 

Half castes, 6,186 

Chinese, 15,301 

Americans, « . . 1,928 

Hawaiian born, foreign parents, 7,495 

Japanese, . 12,360 

Norwegians, 22"] 

• Britons, » 1,344 

Portuguese, 8,602 

Germans, c i)034 

French, ........... 70 

Other foreigners, ...0.0 419 

Polj'nesian, . o . « . . o . . . . 588 

Total, 89,990 



58 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Ill 1894 tlie schools numbered 176. 
In 1895 : 

In Government schools, . . . 260 teachers, 9,264 pupils 

In independent schools, ... 175 " 3,375 



Total, 435 " 12,639 " 

Owing to the coral reefs there are no really good 
harbors except Honolulu and Pearl Harbor. 

The islands are of volcanic structure. On the 
island of Hawaii is found the largest known active 
volcano, and several others of great size, partiall}^ or 
wholly quiescent. 

There are many plains with soil composed of ashes 
and cinders. Extinct volcanoes of every age, size, and 
shape are common. One of these is a well-known 
promontor}^ near Honolulu called Leahi, better known 
as Diamond Head, from an idea once current that 
precious stones were to be found there. 

There are few minerals. The usual varieties of 
lava and pumice stone are found. No metals have 
been discovered. The soil of the islands is formed of 
decomposed volcanic rocks, sand, mud, and ashes ; to 
be made fertile it requires constant irrigation. 

The fruits are the banana, bread fruit, cocoanut, 
strawberry, raspberry, the ohia, a red, juic}^ mountain 
apple, melons, limes, oranges, guavas, pineapples, 
grapes, figs, peaches, citron ; while rice, coffee, cotton, 



HONOLULU AND THE NATIVES. 



59 



indigo, tobacco, and sugar-cane are .successfully raised ; 
also yams, sweet potatoes, and arrow root. 

The forests are usually very dense, broken here and 
there b}^ deep chasms, which appear to have been once 
active craters. The trees are overgrown with mosses 
and ferns, which render penetration almost impossible. 



^^ 


^i^k 










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H^^T- 




^ 


^ 


^ 




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••':'']}- :■-■ ■ 


J^SI^'-jfL^^^Stt^^S^I^Smm^^^^Ki 








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m 


m 




^^ 




e* 




^^^^lEa&.' 



Hawaiian Hotel, Honullll-. 

Wild geese, ducks, plover, hogs, dogs, steers, and wild 
horses abound in the islands. 

The climate is salubrious, and the temperature even. 
During twelve ^^ears the greatest heat in the shade was 
ninety degrees, greatest cold fifty-four. The mean 
temperature is about seventy-five. 



6o VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

It is said that a stranger, asking a resident if the 
climate of the ishmds was favorable for Inng troubles, 
was told that some three years ago a Chinaman settled 
in Honolulu with one lung, and recently returned to 
his native country with three lungs (his wife and two 
children). 

The history of the people is too well known for me to 
enter into its details. 

We are driven to the Hawaiian Hotel, a plain, unpre- 
tentious wooden structure, surrounded by a beautiful 
lawn, with palms, bananas, and other tropical trees and 
plants of magnificent foliage, rendering it a veritable 
paradise, with which we fall in love at first sight. 
Comfortable quarters are assigned us, and we are soon 
off to slumber and happy dreams amid the sweet odors 
that fill the air. Mosquitoes and other winged pests 
exist here to an alarming extent. All sleeping apart- 
ments are protected by netting, otherwise these ener- 
getic and persistent creatures would prove intolerable. 
Many hotels have what is called a " mosquito room ;'' 
the sides are made of netting, which these insects can- 
not pass. 

Mark Twain said that when on a visit to these 
islands, the onl}^ way to get the better of the " dear 
little humming birds," was to cut a hole in the 
netting, then get into bed ; the mosquitoes would come 
through in droves ; at the proper moment he would tie 



HONOLULU AND THE NATIVES. 



6l 



Up the hole, get out of bed, and sleep unmolested on 
the floor. 

Our first meal in this strange country is breakfast. 
The tables are filled with native fruits, such as alliq-ator 
pears, bananas, pineapples, apples, and last, but not 
least, the universal dish called " poi." 




Taro Patch, Honolulu. 

I must Speak more particularly of this article of food, 
which is so extensively used on the islands by residents 
as well as natives. Poi is made of the root of the taro 
plant, which, liaving been soaked and the skin removed, 
is dried and powdered ; water is then poured on it, and 
it is set aside to ferment, or, in other words, until it 



62 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



becomes sour, at which time it assumes the consisteucy 
of paste. It is then ready to be eaten. At the hotels 
it is served like mush, and eaten with sugar and cream, 
or pressed hard and taken in a solid form, with butter 
and salt. It is a tavSteless, unpalatable sort of food, but 
considered quite wholesome. 




IdAKING POI. 



After breakfast we start out sightseeing. Walking 
to one of the principal streets, upon which there is a 
line of cars, we enter one. Such an odd, old-fashioned 
affair ! The car has an oval top, and is as wide as a 
yacht. It is drawn by a pair of dilapidated old mules, 



HONOLULU AND THE NATIVES. 63 

apparently fed on air. Our destination is the noted 
Waikiki Beach, three miles distant. 

We leave our unpleasantly rolling and rocking 
vehicle gladly, to wander along the beach. Here we 
find bath-houses, so, donning the suit usually worn 
by the men, a pair of swimming trunks, I plunge into 
the ocean, and enjoy the mild temperature and fine surf. 
The reef, about two miles seaward, protects this inland 
bay, where the swimmer may enjoy a frolic with old 
Neptune unmolested by the thousands of carnivorous 
sharks which inhabit these waters. 

]\Iany thrilling stories are told of the experiences of 
the natives with these dreaded fish. A Kanaka will often 
row his boat out beyond the reef, and, seeing a shark, 
will dive into the water and engage in battle with him ; 
and it is always the Kanaka who kills his enemy. 

Surf boating is one of the maii}^ pleasures afforded 
by the sea, to resident as well as native. Through the 

kindness of ni}^ good friend, Colonel McF , I am 

invited to join in one of these novel sports. The canoes 
used are very long and narrow, being kept in place upon 
the water by two long outriders which support a heavy 
timber. Our party, consisting of my friend, three 
native Kanakas, and myself, dressed in bathing cos- 
tume, and each provided with a paddle, row out to the 
reef, where the waves are high and powerful. Here we 
await one unusually large and strong. When such a 



64 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



one appears, and we hear it hissing in our ears, with its 
white crest close upon us, we begin to paddle all to- 
gether towards the shore ; as soon as the wave strikes 
the canoe we are carried with great speed upon its 
crest, at the rate of fully a mile a minute. We reach 
the beach alive and unharmed. 




Surf Boating, Honolulu. 

This is a very exciting and sometimes dangerous 
amusement, for, while the canoe cannot sink, it often 
capsizes, throwing its occupants into the water, where 
the force of the waves is so great as to render swimming 
a hazardous experiment. The sport is repeated many 
times until fatigue ends our enjoyment. 



HONOLULU AND THE NATIVES. 65 

One day while sitting on the beach reveling in the 
beauty of picturesque Diamond Head, and the tropical 
plants and trees that fringe the shore, I observe a party, 
consisting of two young girls and a very old woman, 
each carrying a salt sack carelessly at her side, enter 
the water, and swim at least half a mile seaward. 
Then they dive, and remain a long time under water. 
I time some of these dives, and perceive that fully two 
minutes elapse before they return to the surface. 
They are gathering sea moss, and having filled their 
bags, swim ashore with the precious load. This moss 
is eaten by the Kanakas, and is quite palatable. The 
old woman is at least ninet}^ years of age, and an 
athlete in strength. 

The drive to Waikiki Beach is most charming. 
Along the entire way, on either side are picturesque 
and elegant mansions, set in lawns filled with tropical 
plants, ro3^al palms, banana and cocoanut groves, and 
flowers in profusion. What a region of loveliness ! 
The air is full of fragrance, the scenes are those of 
fairyland. 

We have passed many large banana and cocoanut 
groves, and seen hundreds of cocoanuts and bunches 
of bananas awaiting the harvest. 

It is very entertaining to take an open carriage and 
drive to the various stores. Passing through the prin- 
cipal streets, we enter a Japanese store, where I pur- 
B 



66 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



chase a native island straw liat ; also a large fancy 
sash, called a " puggery," which is to be draped artisti- 
cally aronnd -the hat. Odd at first, but when one be- 
comes familiar with it, quite the thing, and " swell " 
Honolulu style. With a white flannel or linen suit, 



HPi 




^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^K^^^K^KI^'-'^Xf^'j^'- ^BS 


*■■■ ■■■'" ■■; ■" '^^w M 


HMH^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Hj^^^ ^ _^^^E^^^^^^^^^^ . •"'"-X"- ^ 


^^^^M 


:JM 





Waikiki Beach, Honolulu. 

and white canvas shoes, one feels as if he has lived on 
these particular islands all his life. 

We go from store to store, purchasing many articles, 
useful, convenient, and curious. Prices in general are 
the same as in the '' States," but clothing of all kinds 
is much cheaper. 



HONOLULU AND THE NATIVES. (>"] 

The tailors and dressmakers, nearly all Japanese or 
Chinese, are skilfnl workmen, and wonderfnlly qnick 
in fulfilling orders. For instance, on Saturday at noon 
I telephone a Chinese tailor to bring samples of linen 
and flannel to our hotel, as we wish to order suits. He 
calls promptly with numerous styles of goods, at prices 
far below my calculations. They would be reasonable 
in our country at double the charge. 

Choosing my materials, I order two suits, to be fin- 
ished positively by Monday night. I do not really 
require them so soon, but do this as a joke and to put 
the tailor on his mettle. To my surprise, at supper 
time of the same day, his tailorship calls at the hotel, 
bearing upon his arm the two suits to be tried on, 
preparatory to finishing ; and punctually on Monday 
evening I find awaiting me in my room the two suits 
of clothing and the smiling tailor, who asks politel}^ if 
he is in good time. 

It is worth while to take a stroll in the fish market, 
which is an open building, covering an acre and a half 
of ground ; a lofty roof protects dealers and customers 
from the rays of the sun and the frequent showers for 
which Honolulu is noted. 

The market is only ten minutes' walk from the 
hotel. I will never forget my first impressions of 
this curious scene. Sellers and buvers, of all na- 
tionalities — Kanakas, Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, 



68 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

English, and Americans — mingle together as one 
nation. 

And such strange fish are on the table ! One is of 
emerald green, one of purple, here a blue, there a black 
specimen. 

Everywhere may be seen the voluptuous eyed Ka- 
naka women, robed in their simple " Mother Hubbard " 
gowns, talking, laughing, merr}^ making, alwa3^s bright 
and cheerful, and not only in the market, but at every 
turn of the street. 

The dealers have an odd way of bundling up a fish 
and handing it to the purchaser without basket, string, 
or paper. They wrap two leaves, about eighteen inches 
long and five inches wide, dexterously^ around the fish, tie 
a knot, make an extra twist, and behold a basket with 
two handles, ingenious, primitive, and cheap. 

To-day we visit the cricket grounds. The admission 
fee is twenty-five cents. Upon the grand stand are 
seated fully four hundred spectators and the celebrated 
Hawaiian Band of sixty pieces. Among the audience 
are many young half-breed Kanaka girls, of whose 
languishing eyes, handsome forms, and glowing 
health it is almost impossible to give an idea. The 
men, too, are perfect types of physical health and 
strength. 

We spend an hour or two looking at a fairl}^ good 
game of base-ball between the Kanaka club and a Cycle 



HONOLULU AND THE NATIVES. 



69 



club, but fiud the music much more attractive thau the 
play of amateurs. 

lu the eveuiug, as I sit upou the porch listeuiug to 





Hula" Dancers. 



the music, aud gaziug out iuto the mooulit uight aud 
the tropical bloom surrouuding the hotel, a party of 
gentlemen with whom I am acquainted approach and 



yo VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

ask me if I will join tliem in witnessing a genuine 
" Hula " dance. I consent, and at eight o'clock we 
proceed, with a competent guide, to a neighboring cot- 
tage, where the dance is to be held. The dancing is 
odd and b}^ no means beautiful. 

These dances were instituted b}^ the natives in their 
primitive life, as festivals to the Goddess Laka. 

Returning to the hotel we are impressed by the ga}^ 
and lovely picture of life it presents. 

Parlor, reception and ballroom are beautiful and 
fragrant with flowers, and dozens of happy young peo- 
ple are gliding gracefully through the modern waltz, to 
the music of four Kanaka men, who sing and play at 
the same time. The instruments are a violin, banjo, 
and two guitars. 

What a strange, sweet melody this native music has ! 
So different from our own. As the dance goes on and 
on, and I sit on the porch smoking under the electric 
lights, with the dusky foliage around me, and the soft 
sweet melody ringing in my ears, I can almost believe 
that I have been transported from the everyday world 
to a true and living paradise. 



PLANTATIONS AND MOUNTAINS. 

Second-claSvS cans — Native smokers — Rice plantation — Fields of sugar- 
cane — Crusliiug the cane — Planting cane — Lunch in a cocoanut grove 
— Pearl City and harbor — Pineapple farm — Chinese theatres — vStrangers 
in Honolulu^Climate — Departure of the " Australia" — The Pali — On 
the summit — Ladies and the Pali — Punch Bowl — Photographing the 
natives — " Poi dog " — Crab fishing. 

This fair morning I leave the city at nine o'clock 
with a party of gentlemen to visit the great sngar-cane 
plantations and pineapple farms at Pearl River and 
Waianae, the latter place nearly thirty-four miles from 
Honolulu. 

In order to observe the natives we purchase second- 
class tickets at the railway station ; the first-class cars 
are usually occupied by tourists and the better class of 
the inhabitants. We are well repaid for our choice. 
Opposite us is an old Kanaka woman and two ^^oung 
girls, all dressed in the loose " Mother Hubbard " gar- 
ment. 

After inspecting us closely, and seeming satisfied 
that we are harmless, the old woman reaches down into 
her deep pocket and draws forth an ancient pipe, 
rudely fashioned from a root ; then a tobacco pouch. 
She fills the pipe, lights it and takes two or three puffs, 

71 



72 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

then hands it to the yonng girl at her side, who also 
pnffs several times, and passes the pipe to the other 
girl. With evident enjoyment it is thus smoked alter- 
nately until the tobacco is exhausted, when it is refilled 
and taken in turn as before. 

There are numerous schools in Honolulu, and many 
of the Kanakas have been taught to speak the English 
language. We converse with some of these natives, 
who give us much information in regard to the country 
through which we are traveling. One of them, a hand- 
some middle-aged Kanaka, educated at one of the Hon- 
olulu colleges, proves a very agreeable and interesting 
companion. He is a native of Waianae, and well 
acquainted with that portion of the island. 

Our train consists of a first and a second-class car, 
and we travel at the rate of fifteen miles an hour on a 
fairly good track. As I look from my car window I 
see many uncommon and picturesque sights. On one 
side the mountains rise hundreds of feet, their summits 
ever enveloped in clouds ; on the other the ocean waves 
dash ceaselessly upon a rugged coast. 

The color effects on and around Oahu are the most 
beautiful I have ever beheld. 

We stop now a few minutes at a station where a number 
of natives appear to receive letters and merchandise. 
These simple folk are interesting from the fact that they 
know and care almost nothing for the outside world. 



PLANTATIONS AND MOUNTAINS. 73 

Close by is a Japanese fisli house ; it is of two 
stories. Many of the men are loitering about be- 
tween working hours. Their dress is odd and unbe- 
coming. 

We pass a rice plantation, on which many men are 
employed. Over in a distant corner I see a native 
buffalo harnessed to a plough. Buffaloes are commonl}^ 
used throughout this district. The soil is a perfect 
mush, and the costume of the laborers is a loose blouse, 
minus trousers. The ground here is irrigated ; the 
farms are owned by the railroad company and leased to 
the planters. I endeavor to learn the rate per acre, but 
without success. The rice is quite short, having been 
only recently planted. Here are also many fields of 
taro. 

The railroad runs for miles along the base of the 
Waianae Mountains, which abound in wild pigs, dogs, 
and goats. By paying a small license fee one may 
have the privilege of hunting here to his heart's con- 
tent. The mountains are of volcanic formation, com- 
posed chiefly of basalt. 

We have reached Waianae, and in company with our 
new acquaintance, Mr. Haiakulani, and by his courtesy 
we are allowed to go through a large sugar mill. On 
our journe}^ thither we passed miles upon miles of 
sugar-cane fields belonging to the compan}^ owning this 
mill. The cane is ripe, and a large force of men is 



74 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



emplo^^ed in cutting it. iVfter it is cut it is carried by 
small cars over a narrow track running from the field 
to the crushing-mill, and is here unloaded into hoppers, 
and the juice extracted by large powerful rollers. It 
passes tlirough the rollers three times, the liquid being 
conveyed to a central point, and into a large trough 




Sugar-cane Field. 

with a copper sieve at the bottom, through which it is 
strained. It is then carried to large tubs at the top of 
the mill, where the molasses and sugar are made. 
Huge piles of crude brown sugar run through spouts 
upon the floor beneath, and are bagged for shipment by 
the natives. The molasses is shipped in hogsheads. 



PLANTATIONS AND MOUNTAINS. 75 

The rei'"use cane is dried and nsed fof fnel, thus serving 
a threefold purpose. 

Cane is planted by cutting a canestalk, sixteen or 
eighteen inches long, and planting it a few inches 
below the surface of the earth ; a young stalk sprouts 
from each joint or eye. Its luxuriant growth can easily 
be imagined. In fourteen months from planting it 
reaches maturity, sometimes attaining a height of 
twenty feet. 

Leaving the sugar mill, we stroll over to one of the 
many cocoanut groves in the neighborhood to lunch 
and rest under the shady trees and enjoy the view. 
The proprietor of the grove invites us to help ourselves 
to as many green cocoanuts as we wish, to eat with our 
lunch. We take this as a joke, as the trees are tall and 
the fruit very high ; but in a few moments a small 
Kanaka lad, not over ten years of age, comes running 
toward us, sent b}^ the owner to climb one of the trees 
and knock down cocoanuts for us ! 

How nimble these Kanaka boys are ! With perfect 
ease he runs up a tree fifty or sixty feet high, and with 
his feet knocks down as many cocoanuts as we desire. 

The fruit being green, one can easily cut off the top 
and drink the milk. It is delicious. I think each 
cocoanut contains about three pints of milk. 

Returning to Waianae Station, we say farewell to our 
kind friend and guide, and take the train for Pearl City. 



']^ VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Here we ascend a liigli hill, not far from the station, 
to obtain a bird's-eye view of the famons Pearl Harbor. 
How restful to eyes and soul is this beautiful bod}^ of 
water ! 

During our walk we meet a native, \vho, upon in- 
quir}^, tells us that onl}^ a mile or X.\\o distant is one of 
the largest pineapple farms in the neighborhood. Tak- 
ing him as our guide, we start for the plantation. 

Arriving shortly, we are fortunate enough to find the 
wife of the proprietor at home. She welcomes us hos- 
pitably, and leads us to the large tract of ground en- 
tirely devoted to the cultivation of this fruit. It is an 
interesting sight. Here are thousands of pineapples 
nearly ready for the market. This farm will produce 
one hundred and fift}^ thousand pineapples in one crop, 
averaging ten thousand to the acre. Artesian wells are 
made and the soil is irrigated. The price of pineapples 
from first hands is about ten cents apiece, regardless of 
size ; their weight is from seven to twelve pounds, 
although I have seen much fruit weighing full}^ fifteen 
to eighteen pounds. The fruit appears twelve months 
after the bud is planted and matures two months later. 
What a feast we had before leaving the plantation ! We 
return to Honolulu, feeling well repaid for our trip. 

In the evening we attend a Chinese theatre — in fact, 
two theatres. The cit}^ maintains two theatres, both 
under the management of the Chinese. One is called 



PLANTATIONS AND MOUNTAINS. 77 

the '' Old " the other the " New " theatre. There is 
little or no difference between them, either inside or 
ont. The audience, which is composed of Japanese 
and Chinese, seems to be most interested in that part 
of the performance which makes the greatest noise ; 
the continuous beating of large gongs and brass cym- 
bals, which is something dreadful ! 

The stranger visiting Honolulu, if he is well recom- 
mended by letters of introduction, is cordiall}^ received 
in the best circles. 

The people are hospitable and attentive in their enter- 
tainment of a visitor. The service at the hotel is also 
all that could be desired. The labor is performed 
entirely by Chinamen. Our chamber boy, "Ah Cue," 
seems happy only when fulfilling our orders, nothing 
that we ask being too much trouble. 

While the climate is tropical the temperature is not 
high; yet the atmosphere has a relaxing effect, and one 
soon loses his ''American vim " and energy, becoming, 
like natives and residents, quite willing to take things 
" easy." 

The "Australia " is the favorite steamer of the people 
of Honolulu, and it is entertaining to go down to the 
harbor and witness her departure on one of her voy- 
ages. 

The Hawaiian Band assembles on the end of the pier, 
playing popular and patriotic airs, while friends and 



78 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



relatives bid each other farewell oil the steamer and the 
shore. Upon these occasions the natives bring long 
garlands of flowers, called " leis," four or five feet in 
length, which they place in lavish profusion about the 
necks and shoulders of the departing travelers. Just 
before the steamer casts off her moorings wreaths and 




The Pali Road. 



flowers are flung over her in perfect abandon, shouts of 
^' boil vo3^age !" mingle with cheers, music, and sing- 
ing, and the excitement is intense. 

We choose a clear, bright afternoon for our drive to 
the celebrated Pali, six miles and a half from Honolulu. 
The road is a gradual ascent to a height of over twelve 



PLANTATIONS AND MOUNTAINS. 79 

Hundred feet above the level of the sea, with mountains 
towering on either side from three thousand to four 
thousand feet high. x\s we ascend the scenery contin- 
ually increases in grandeur, the foliage grows more 
dense, and the air perceptibly cooler. The gently- 
sloping sides of the valley have changed to lofty preci- 
pices. We mount higher and higher, over a good road, 
passing at intervals other travelers. 

Before us is a group of Kanakas, men and women, 
riding their horses bareback and in one fashion. Here 
are some Japanese and Chinamen, also en route for the 
Pali. 

iVt a picturesque turn in the path we perceive an 
artist at work upon his canvss. The scene grows more 
and more beautiful as we still move upward, almost on 
the edge of a steep precipice. Now we tie the horses 
and leave the carriage at a spot protected by the moun- 
tain from the strong wind which never ceases in this 
region. Walking several hundred feet, at a sudden 
turn we come to the very edge of the precipice. The 
strong iron railing is a necessary protection here, for 
the wind is furious, threatening to sweep everything 
before it. 

The natives frequently ride over this bridle path and 
down the steep mountain side to the plain below. 

The view from this point is magnificent. Lofty 
mountains tower far, far above us on all sides, their 



8o 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



peaks, covered with verdure, lending an indescriable 
majesty to the scene. 

Away off on the right can be seen the Pacific Ocean 
spreading its calm surface mile upon mile, its emerald 
coat glistened brightly in the sun. Along the coast 




Now WE Tie the Horses. 



white foam above the coral reefs indicates shallow 
water. 

The plains, with their varied hues of green and 
brown, in light and shadow, show now brilliant, now 
softened effects of richest coloring. 

Here, where we stand, a great battle was fought a 



PLANTATIONS AND MOUNTAINS. 8l 

hundred years ago, and Kameliamelia, the conqueror, 
drove his enemies over the edge of this frightful preci- 
pice to their death. 

Far off, yet almost directly opposite, is the little 
rocky island of Molokai, with steep rugged sides. 

We gaze around us, breathless with wonder, and too 
deeply impressed for words. The wind, roaring 
through the pass, adds to the feeling of awe with which 
we are inspired. It is sometimes even more violent, 
and we are told that frequently large stones from the 
valley are lifted by it with such force that they are 
carried to the top of this pass. 

The ledge upon which we are standing is from fif- 
teen to eighteen hundred feet above the plain. 

The great Pali stands majestic and defiant, fearing 
neither the stormy winds nor the rushing waters. 
With royal grace it rears its beauteous head. Yet not 
always has it presented to the world so calm a front. 
Evidences of volcanic explosions are in the rocky 
mountain side, and, while one half stands in semicir- 
cular form the other half has sunk out of view, appear- 
ing as if cut away with mathematical precision. 

We linger long among these most wonderful of the 
Creator's works. At length we return to the carriage, 
and are soon descending the picturesque valley of 
Nuuanu. 

I take mau}^ photographs of the mountains and the 
6 



Sz VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

prospects along tins drive ; but what can art do, but 
give one a faint idea of the grandeur and sublimity of 
nature in her loftiest moods. 

A story is told here of two ladies and the Pali. 
While sta3nng at the hotel in Honolulu they received 
an invitation to the Queen's reception at the palace. 




The Great Pali Stands Majestic and Defiant. 

As evening approached they ordered a carriage, and 
wishing to air their French they directed the driver to 
take them to the " palais." The man, astonished at 
receiving such an order at that hour, asked if he under- 
stood aright, and the command was repeated : " To the 
palais." 



PLANTATIONS AND MOUNTAINS. 83 

They set out, and after riding a long time tlie ladies 
began to think the driver had either misunderstood 
them or lost his way. Signs of civilization were rap- 
idly disappearing. As they entered the mountain pass 
they asked him if he knew the road. He replied, by 
asking in his turn, if they wished to go to the Pali. 
They said they did. So on they went, until at last the 
Pali was reached — a bleak wilderness at that hour. 
When informed that they had arrived at the Pali, they 
were amazed and alarmed, and asked the driver where 
was the palace of the queen ? To which he answered, 
^' Not here ; this is the Pali." Angry and mortified, 
they were driven back to the hotel, having missed the 
reception at the palace. 

A delightfur drive is to the Punch Bowl, and along 
the coast. Ordering a carriage, we direct the driver to 
take us to the summit of this extinct crater, which rises 
five hundred feet above the valley. Upon reaching this 
elevation, we have a fine view of Diamond Head, also 
an extinct crater, and in the distance of the lofty 
Waianae Mountains, with a pure blue sky for a back- 
ground. From another point we can see Pearl Harbor. 

At our feet is the harbor of Honolulu, with steamers 
lying at anchor, and merchandise of all kinds awaiting 
shipment to foreign lands, piled upon the piers, which 
extend far into the sea. We have also a beautiful view 
of the city of Honolulu. Descending, we drive through 



84 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



the bed of the crater, which is covered with a dense 
growth of lowly verdure. 

Many native houses and grass huts are built upon 
the mountain side. Wishing to see some of the people 
in their homes, we direct the driver, who speaks the 
Kanaka language, to stop before some of these dwell- 




A Delightful Drive is to the Punch Bowl. 

ings. The first is a small grass hut, whose inhabitants 
I ask to come out that I may photograph them. They 
are very shy at first, but finally an old man and a 
boy pose for me while engaged in eating poi. In ex- 
tending a coin to the man to repa}^ him for the favor, I 
discover that he is a leper; his face, hands, and the ex- 



PLANTATIONS AND MOUNTAINS. 



85 




PLANTATIONS AND MOUNTAINS. 8/ 

posed portions of liis body are covered witli evidences 
of this loathsome disease. I drop the money into his 
swollen palm and turn away. 

At another hut the family is preparing for a feast, 
called " Poi Dog." The Kanakas frequently have these 
entertainments. A dog is penned up and fattened upon 
poi, then killed, cooked, and served much as we serve a 
young pig in our country. 

We now drive along the beach, passing Diamond 
Head and Koko Point. Halting at a retired and shady 
spot, we spread leaves upon the ground, and eat our 
luncheon sitting upon the rocks. 

Then, still along the shore, homeward. B}^ this 
time the tide is coming rapidly in, and the huge 
boulders on our right and the water on our left are so 
close together that at times the horses are compelled to 
wade breast high through the surf. We have a very 
exciting ride for about two miles. Now and then a 
wave breaks so close to us that we are drenched with 
spray. 

During our drive we pass the residences of many 
prominent people, among them the cottages of Presi- 
dent Dole and the ex-Queen Liliuokalani. Arriving 
home, we find that we have been out six hours. 

Our kind friend. Colonel McF , invites us, with 

others, to a crab-fishing picnic. Many island celeb- 
rities are to be there, and we anticipate much fun. 



88 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN, 

Carriages await us at the hotel at eleven in the 
morning. 

Driving to Kalihi, a distance of four miles, we are 
hospitably received by our host at his summer resi- 
dence. 

Provided with fishing tackle and raw beef for bait we 
all repair to the beach, where we have much sport and 
catch some fine large crabs. We then return to the 
farm, where we enjoy an al fresco dinner. 

The rustic table under the trees is bountifully laden 
with choice dishes, such as roast duck, beefsteak, bread 
fruit, alligator pears, cakes, and beer. To crown all, 
the Chinese cook appears, bearing a huge dish of the 
crabs we have caught, prepared for dinner. 

The cool breeze from the ocean and the delightful, 
balmy atmosphere, with just enough sun, make the 
meal a charming success. The aspect is enchanting. 
On our right rises Mount Tantalus, two thousand feet 
above us, and covered with verdure to its highest 
point. 

Choice cigars finish the repast, and many a good 
story is told as we recline luxuriously in easy chairs 
and hammocks. 

The sociability of the residents adds greatl}^ to the 
pleasure of the tourist. Long will I remember the 
crab fishing picnic at Kalihi. 

To-day is devoted to preparation for our journey to 



PLANTATlONvS AND MOUNTAINS. 89 

Hilo and the crater of Kilauea on the island of Hawaii. 
The distance by sea is abont two hnndred miles. We 
leave to-morrow on the steamer '' Kinan." 

We have a pleasant habit of spending an honr after 
breakfast on the porch in front of the hotel, where are 
exposed for sale varions specimens of the handicraft of 
the natives and others. 

Bead-work, baskets, bags, and belts made of the seeds 
of frnits ; also lace mats are offered by the Portngnese. 
Fans made of dried grasses, wooden fignres carved in 
primitive style with a jack-knife, and many other 
cnrions articles may be bought at a moderate price. 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING EIRE. 

Off for Hilo — Old Neptune'vS frolics— VieWvS en vo3'age — Lanai^ 
Landing cargo — Temple of Haen — Niulii — Mountain waterfalls — 
Loiipahoehoe — Hilo — Unpleasant bedfellows — Drive to the crater — 
Flume bridges — Native jungles — ^Japanese moving — Halfwa}- House — 
Volcano Hotel — The crater of Halemaumau — Kilauea — Mauna Kea — 
Walk to the crater— Lava formations — The House of Everlasting Fire 
— Candle tree— Bird's nest fern — Return to Hilo— American circus — 
Cocoanut Island— Kanaka church— Native bathers— Back to Honolulu. 

Mr. W , president of the Wilder Line of steam- 
ships, has most kindl}^ given up his stateroom to us 
during the voyage. This is onl}^ one of mau}^ favors 
extended to us by the officers of this compan}^ for 
which we will ever be grateful. 

We leave the Wilder pier at 10.30 on a bright sunn^^ 
morning. 

Many friends are gathered on the shore to see U8 off 
and wish us a safe journe3^ 

We pass Diamond Head shortl}^ after leaving the 
harbor, having a fine view of the picturesque coast, 
with its luxuriant foliage, from the deck of the steamer. 

The Pacific, while placid in name, is capable at times 

of showing a rough and unpleasant disposition, and 

this proves to be our experience in the early part of the 

voyage. We begin to roll considerably as we pass 

90 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE. 9I 

through the Kaiwi channel, and with the exception 
of two gentlemen all the passengers are seasick. In 
all my experience at sea I have never seen the ocean 
as rough as in this channel. 

Even the president of the line declares that he has 
never passed through anything equal to this. 

The islands of Molokai and Maui loom up 
majestically before us, and I forget my sufferings for a 
moment in admiration of the charming picture. The 
setting sun shows a golden light in a deep purple back- 
ground, and the waves glisten with orange and violet 
reflections ; now a rich crimson glow spreads over all, 
which gradually fading, leaves our memory sole pos- 
sessors of a scene of beauty indelibl}^ impressed upon 
its tablets. 

We cast anchor and bob up and down in midstream. 
We can see the old town of Lahaina upon the island 
of Maui, fully a mile away. Small boats are let 
down from the steamer's side to convey passengers and 
freight ashore. While this is being accomplished I 
lean over the side of the vessel, at the suggestion of 

Mr. W , to observe the clearness of the water, and 

at a depth of sixty feet can distinguish shells as well 
as fish. I cast a silver coin into the waves and watch it 
zigzag its way down to the bottom of the sea. 

The row boats, having landed passengers and stores, 
are hoisted into place, and again we are moving onward. 



92 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

What a gale ! The sea is uncomfortably restless, 
and our little steamer seems anxious to perform the 
undesirable feat of standing on her head. 

The scenery along the route is sublime. Air. W- 

invites us to the bridge to view the great mountains of 
Maui. The giant Haleakala, in all the dignity of its 
ten thousand and thirty-two feet, looks wild and barren. 
Little or no vegetation clothes its topmost peaks ; but 
at its base there is a luxuriant growth of tropical 
foliage. Through the twilight we can perceive fields of 
sugar-cane and little white cottages dotted here and 
there, with the tall mountains for a background. The 
enchanting scenes that pass in rapid panorama almost 
banish the headache and nausea. 

Here is "Olowalu," pleasant valley, well deserving 
its name. The green fields of cane, the gently rolling 
country in its emerald robe would be a veritable 
Arcadia, were it not for the occasional appearance of a 
sugar mill, with which the speculative spirit of man has 
seen fit to mar the harmony of this lovely spot. 

We are informed that the island of Lanai, lying be- 
fore us, is for sale, being in a state of bankruptcy It 
may be purchased for ninety thousand dollars ; it has 
good pasture land for sheep and cattle. 

It is long after midnight before I retire to ni}^ state- 
room, leaving reluctantly these lovely pictures of sea 
and mountain. But what a place do I enter ! This is 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE. 93 

more like the dwelling of a cyclone than the berth 
of a steamer. Nearly everything in the room — books, 
grips, tnmblers, what not ? — has found a resting place 
on the floor. The utmost confusion prevails. 

I tie myself in bed and yield myself up to the possi- 
bilities of slumber. I have just fallen asleep, when I 
am aroused by the persistent squealing of pigs. Not 
understanding the necessity for such sounds at this un- 
seemly hour, I rise and make my way to the deck, where 
I perceive that we have anchored opposite Makena, 
and are transferring passengers and freight, pigs, 
ashore. 

It is a glorious night ! The moon shining on the 
water calls forth myriads of sparkling diamonds. Wind 
and waves have subsided considerably, and, although 
we are still tossing about, it is not impossible to sleep. 
The steward informs me, however, that we may expect 
another " shake up " when we pass through the Alen- 
uihaha channel. Merciful heavens ! I retire to bed 
with dismal visions of another bone-rattling! 

Bang ! Bang ! Bang ? Now a dish ; now a glass 
crashing on the floor awakens me. And such tossing 
and pitching can be compared only to a cowboy upon a 
bucking broncho, and a spirited one at that. I fall 
twice from my berth, and only by strapping myself in 
can I save myself from being again deposited upon the 
floor. At seven o'clock in the morning we arrive at 



94 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Maliukoiia, the first lauding on the island of Hawaii, 
where we will remain three hours, while freight is being 
conveyed ashore. 

Mr. W invites us to land and breakfast with 

himself and family at his country residence close by. 
The boat is lowered and passengers are rowed ashore 
by natives. 

Upon an eminence at our right a pretty cottage is 
perched, surrounded by plenty of shade trees. Here 
we receive a warm welcome and a good breakfast. 

After breakfast I walk to the wharf to see the un- 
loading of the cargo. As before, the steamer lies a 
mile from shore, and the fright is placed in boats and 
rowed to its destination, large timbers being thrown 
overboard and towed to the land. Live cattle, such as 
steers and horses, are lowered into the water and swim 
ashore. 

Mahukona is a barren-looking place, although in 
certain sections there are large sugar plantations. It 
is about one hundred and twenty miles from Honolulu 
and eighty from Hilo, our destination. 

With the good wishes of our hosts we say farewell, 
and our steamer goes on her wa}^ 

Shortly after leaving Mahukona we see upon a 
bank a large pile of stones, and we are told that it is 
the ruins of the once famous temple of Haen, built b}^ 
the Goddess Genii. Many human sacrifices were made 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE. 95 

within its walls by the ancient kings, and there are 
nnmerous traditions relating to it. One is that the 
sacred shrine was raised by the goddess in a single 
night. 

The island of Hawaii is not so mountainons as Mani. 
There is mnch excellent pasture here and cattle ranches 



These Flumes are Carried Over Deep \'alleys. 

abound. Numerous herds may be seen grazing, some 
of them numbering hundreds of heads. 

This is also a sugar-cane district, and here are large 
plantations and many mills. The cane, when cut, is 
conveyed to the mills by means of troughs or flumes, 
into which water is forced. These flumes are carried 



g6 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

over deep valleys, from three liundred to four liundred 
feet below, before reaching the mills. 

We see a number of square inclosures, of small size, 
surrounded by stone walls, long since in ruins, and 
are informed that at one time the natives lived there ; 
but so many of them died that the remainder deserted 
their homes, proving that the first attempts at civiliza- 
tion were not successful among the aborigines. The 
exquisite scenery, as we approach the Niulii district, 
is beyond a hast}^ description. I have taken several 
photographs of the beautiful lofty mountains that cast 
their shadows over the water, and, had we sailed more 
smoothly, would attempt some sketches, but it is im- 
possible under existing conditions. 

As we advance the scenes are grander, more inspir- 
ing-. The mountains tower two thousand feet from the 
ver}^ edge of the sea, while in the background rise the 
peaks, Kohala, five thousand five hundred feet, and 
Manna Kea, thirteen thousand eight hundred feet. 
The loftier mountains seem to be guarding their lesser 
neighbors in the foreground. 

I have no words adequate to these wonderful heights 
and depths and lights and shadows and rich and soft- 
ened hues of tropical wealth and bloom. These sum- 
mits, it is said, have never been trodden b}^ foot of 
man. I can well believe this statement, as the}^ are 
extremel}^ precipitous. 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE. 97 

Altliougli covered by trees and other vegetation there 
are no wild animals npon them. The gigantic masses 
are broken here and there by deep, mysterions looking 
ravines that fill one with awe. Cascades shoot forth 
from inner heights at an elevation of from a thousand 
to fifteen and even eighteen hundred feet, dashing 
over the precipices into the sea, and forming innumer- 
able rainbows in the glistening sunlight. 

A few grass huts are scattered at the base of the 
mountains, the abodes of fishermen, whose little boats 
are their onl}^ means of communication with the out- 
side world. There is no road except at the foot of the 
mountains, and when the weather is bad and the sea 
rough they are frequently unable to leave their homes 
for nian}^ weeks. 

Hawaii is quite fertile in this district, as we see many 
sugar plantations which extend from the shore to the 
woodlands. 

As we approach Laupahoehoe the mountains are 
smaller. Here we land some passengers. 

We are now only twenty-one miles from Hilo, at 
which place we hope to arrive at 5.30 this afternoon. 
The country here is wild and picturesque, great waves 
dashing high upon a rocky beach. 

We can see Hilo in the distance, a small insig- 
nificant looking place, of tropical appearance. 

At last we make our final halt, the boats are lowered 
7 



98 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

for the last time, and we are all borne safely to a prim- 
itive wharf, where we are met by natives and driven to 
the Volcano Hotel. 

We are well received by " mine host," who offers ns 
the best in his honse, which is as poor as he is gen- 
erous. 

We take the parlor, in which a bed is placed, and 
with a small pitcher of water manage a tolerably fair 
appearance at our first meal on shore, which is supper. 

As I finish the da^^'s journal, and just before retir- 
ing for the night, the porch is surrounded by Kanakas, 
wdio favor us with native songs, accompanied b}^ musi- 
cal instruments. Their voices sound as though some 
*' Brown's Troches " would not be injurious. 

I retire to rest, anticipating a good sleep. M}^ first 
impression is that a blanket has been thrown over the 
backs of two or three camels, and that I am lying on it. 
An^'thing more uneven than these springs it is impos- 
sible to imagine. 

We have also mau}^ unpleasant bed-fellows, such as 
fleas innumerable, m3^riads of mosquitoes, enormous 
spiders, sociable centipedes. In time one becomes 
accustomed to these creatures, wdiich are quite common 
to the sleeping-rooms of this part of the countr}^ The 
spiders are really remarkable ; when standing, their 
legs are from four to six inches long. They are, how- 
ever, harmless, and are never killed by the natives, as 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE. 99 

they are great destroyers of fleas and other annoying 
insects. Two of these great fellows remain quietly in 
our canop3^ through the night, doubtless to protect us 
from evils, of whose existence we are not aware. 
Thank heaven, the night is past ! But it has left many 
souvenirs upon our bodies. 

After breakfast we start on our thirty-mile drive to 
the crater of Kilauea, engaging a private carriage in 
preference to the stage which runs between these 
points. The road, composed of lava, was constructed 
by the Hawaiian government in 1894 at a cost of one 
hundred thousand dollars. 

Fields of sugar-cane extend for miles along the way 
on either side. It is estimated that in the district of 
Hilo fifty thousand acres are devoted to this product, 
half of it being cropped each year. FormerU^ the cane 
was hauled to the mills in carts, requiring the service of 
thousands of mules and oxen. Now all this work is 
accomplished by the flumes, mau}^ of which are from 
five to eight miles long, frequently crossing, as I have 
already said, deep and wide ravines. One of the longest 
and highest of these is more than fifteen hundred feet 
long and from two hundred to two hundred and fifty 
feet high. Rain is so abundant in Hilo that the planters 
use it for transporting the cane through the flumes, thus 
saving the cost of artesian wells. 

It is said that in Hawaii one must be prepared for a 



lOO VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

shower at any moment. We find this to be true. The 
natives declare that it rains eight days in every week. 

We are now in a dense forest, where the trees meet 
overhead, and tropical plants of every description 
abound. Graceful ferns spring up on all sides, and 
vines, bearing brilliant-hued flowers, climb the trees and 
festoon the branches with gay wreaths. Wild oranges, 
bananas, and other southern fruits gleam through the 
leaves, and strange vegetation thrusts toward us 
grotesque shapes and peculiar foliage. Only one thing 
is lacking in this region of lavish and wondrous growth. 
Scarcely a note proclaims the presence of the sweet 
musician of the wood, here, where one would expect to 
find the feathered songster in his most gorgeous 
plumage. The birds seem to be supplanted by the 
enormous spiders which abound everywhere. 

The traveler in the States cannot fail to notice the 
dozens of birds always perched upon the telegraph 
wires. Here hundreds of spiders, of every size, may be 
seen hanging to the wires anxiously watching for their 
prey. 

Several coffee plantations appear on the wa3\ The 
trees producing this berry are small and pretty. Now 
follows a stretch of uncultivated land, covered with 
ferns and underbrush. Here and there an enterprising 
settler has cleared away a few acres and built himself a 
cozy little cottage. 



THE HOUSR OF F,VRRLASTING FIRE. lOI 

We meet many Japanese men and women on the 
road, the men carrying all their household goods upon 
their backs. A long pole is balanced upon the shoul- 
ders, and the goods suspended from the ends. One 
passes us, bearing thus his cooking utensils, bed and 
bedding, and provisions. With this load he has one 
free hand, devoted to no better purpose than holding a 
cigar, which seems to afford him much pleasure. 

We are not far enough from civilization to be out of 
reach of the bic^^cle, for a tandem has just passed us, 
with two riders, on their wa}^ to the crater Kilauea. 
Four times we meet them, and each time the}^ call out 
to us that they have " punctured their tires." 

Another tropical jungle, miles in extent, from which 
we emerge into a picturesque region, with the great 
giants Alauna Kea and Alauna Loa looking down upon 
us. We pass few residences. 

It is now ten o'clock in the morning, and we have 
just reached the Halfway'- House at Olaa, where we 
change horses and lunch, stopping a half-hour. We 
have traveled sixteen miles since leaving Hilo. 

On the road again, passing innumerable fern hedges 
enclosing the small lawns of diminutive cottages. 
Another forest, so dense that it seems almost impos- 
sible to penetrate it. Wild ferns abound in an endless 
variety ; also the wild orange, banana, and guava. 

As the soil here is composed of lava, there is but 



I03 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

little vegetation, and the remainder of the drive is with- 
out mnch interest. At 2.30 p. m. we arrive at the Vol- 
cano Hotel, which is situated on an elevation of four 
thousand feet and forty feet above sea-level, and three 
miles and a half from the crater of Halemaumau. 
It is morning, and I sit upon the porch of the hotel 




Another Forest, so Densi: uiAT it Seems Impossible to Pexi:trate it. 

gazing at the scene before me. On the west is the lofty 
Mauna Loa, with its highest point extending far above 
the clouds that circle about its head. This mountain 
is thirteen thousand six hundred and sevent3^-five feet 
high, and is the second in lieight upon the islands. It 
can be ascended on foot, but this is rarely attempted. 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE. 



103 



Upon its summit is the inactive crater Mokuaweoweo, 
which was last in operation April 24th, 1896. On the 
side of the mountain, four thousand feet above sea level, 
are the craters Kilauea and Haleniaumau, the former 
inactive, the latter in operation. 

From the rear of the hotel can be seen Mauna Kea, 




Off in thp: Distance can be seen Smoke Arising from the 
Crater Halemaumau. 

the highest mountain upon the Hawaiian group. It 
rises heavenward thirteen thousand eight hundred and 
five feet. 

Off in the distance, some three miles, looking over 
the great lava beds of the crater Kilauea, can be 



I04 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

seen smoke rising from the crater Halemaumau. 
On first appearance, and in looking at it from the 
porch of the hotel, one is apt to form a very 
poor estimate of the grandenr of this crater, and 
like many of nature's wonders, the tourist feels 
disappointed, after the long and fatiguing journe}^ 
from Honolulu to Hilo, to witness the greatest of 
all active craters. 

It is well to make a brief detail of this crater, Hale- 
maumau. On December 7th, 1894, there were three 
lakes in action in this crater, and upon the above night 
these three lakes united, and fell to a depth of six hun- 
dred feet. The crater then became inactive until July 
8th, 1896, at which time a roaring was heard, and the 
first notice of the crater being again active was July 
nth, 1896. The crater is, say, five hundred feet deep 
and covers an area of three hundred feet in diameter, 
and is located in the great lava beds of the crater Kil- 
auea ; this latter crater covers au estimated area of nine 
miles in circumference. 

At five o'clock in the afternoon, provided with stout 
walking-sticks, heavy shoes to protect our feet from the 
sharp points of lava, and waterproofs for the beating 
rain, we start for the crater. Some of the ladies use 
the small bony native horses for this trip. They are 
obliged to ride on men's saddles, as no others are to be 
had in this out-of-the-way place. 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING PIRE. 



105 



With guides at the front and rear of our party, we 
follow a narrow serpentine path, in Indian file, to the 
foot of the mountain, when we are within a few steps 
of the great lava bed of the crater Kilauea. 

We tread cautiously upon this cold, black lava. 
What a sea of it stretches out before us ! The path is 




One of these Bubbles, Brkakixo Under .my Feet, gives mi: 
A Terrible Fright. 

marked b}^ piles of stones, two or three high, for 
there are many dangerous places into which we might 
stray. On either side of us are deep seams, var3ang 
from ten to twenty feet in depth. Even with the great- 
est care, one now and then treads upon a great bubble, 



Io6 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

whose tliiii crust breaks, and a fall of two or three feet 
is the consequence. 

One of these bubbles, breaking under my feet, gives 
me a terrible fright. For a second my heart is in my 
mouth and my hair on end, for I know not where the 
fall will leave me. 

Our walk over this plain is weird and silent, a hol- 
low echo now and then warning us to tread more 
lightly or step aside upon a less aerial formation. 

Many and wonderful are the shapes into which the 
lava has been forced. Here are great waves, with curl- 
ing tops, apparenth^ read}^ to break and crash against 
each other ; here huge masses of rope lava, woven 
with more than human skill, and perfect to a fibre. 
No life is visible upon this dreary sea, save here and 
there an isolated fern, peeping out from a cold, black 
crevice, nods to us, as if gladly welcoming human 
visitors. 

We push on and on with unfaltering steps, fearing 
even to pause, lest a crash ensue, and we be cast into 
etenuty. 

There is a long, deep fissure on our right, onl}^ a few 
steps from us. It is so wide and deep that a strong 
bridge has been placed over it. Steam puffs out of the 
numerous apertures, with a noise like that of an escape 
valve, filling the air with sulphurous odor. The heat 
is also perceptible through these openings. Night has 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE. 



107 



fallen, and now the guides stop our party and provide 
each person with a lamp. We halt again at a corral 
made of lava stone, where the ladies dismount, and the 
horses are led within and tied. From this point, a 
distance of about half a mile, all must go afoot. 

The heat from the crater is now oppressive, and we 
are compelled to remove our waterproofs. At last the 




Huge Masses of Rope Lava, Woven with More than Htman Skill. 

guides tell us that we are near the crater. Great 
columns of smoke are seen ascending hundreds of feet, 
a red glare flames up against the dark blue of the sky, 
and a low, deep rumbling falls upon our ears. 

One is reminded of a scene in the *' Inferno,'^ 



I08 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Louder and louder grows the rumbling noise, till the 
lava fairly roars in its fiery churn below. It is an 
awful scene ! Darkness is ever^^where, save where the 
'' House of Everlasting Fire " sends forth its vivid 
illuminations. 

As we draw nearer to the edge of the crater, our 
hearts beat more and more quickly. Now we are so 
close that great care is necessar}" to avoid slipping, or, 
b}^ a careless movement, breaking the ledge on which 
we stand, and thus being all precipitated together into 
the fier\' abyss. We seem like pilgrims at a shrine, as 
together we take our first look into the crater. 

Is it possible to do justice to the grand spectacle? 

With a temperature, estimated at 2,000 degrees, the 
molten lava hisses and tosses to and fro, sometimes 
assuming the form of huge billows whirling and dash- 
ing against each other in their mad rush back to the 
centre, at others p3^raniids and fiery fountains dart up- 
ward thirty or forty feet. There are intervals when 
the tumult ceases, and silence and darkness reign 
supreme. Then, as if by magic, the hot lava suddenly 
belches forth, waves roll upward, tr\nng to outdo each 
other, fountains fling their fier}^ spray high in the air, 
clouds of smoke arise from the pit, and all is again 
aglow with crimson flame, while the roar grows more 
terrible ever}^ minute. 

We gaze upon the scene in awed silence, almost 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIR.E. 109 

expecting an irresistible invitation from his sardonic 
majesty to take part in this royal festival. 

When we return to the hotel, some three hours later, 
and our excited brains are beginning to cool, we all 
agree that we have seen one of the wonders of the 
world, and that the reality has far exceeded the antici- 
pation in our visit to Halemaumau, " The House of 
Everlasting Fire." 

We spend a few da^^s visiting places of interest 
around the hotel, then return to Hilo. 

I cannot dwell too often upon the delights of these 
forests. Here we see the Kukui, or Candle tree. The ker- 
nel from the nut of this tree is burned to give light. The 
natives also polish the nuts, and string them as beads. 
The ferns here grow to a height of twenty and thirty 
feet. The jungle is filled with a species of fern called 
Bird's Nest, which takes its name from the fact that it 
grows from the juncture of the bough with the tree, 
and resembles a bird's nest or a pot of ferns. The bark 
of the fern is six to eight inches thick, and is fre- 
quently cut into long strips, and used for making steps, 
and paving the private paths of the residents. The 
porous nature of the wood causes it to absorb water, 
and renders it soft and spongy under the feet. The 
atmosphere of the forest is like that of a hothouse : 
there is much moisture and the air is filled wdth aromatic 
odors. 



no VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

We arrive at Hilo without event. 

This evening, hearing that an "American Circus 
Company " is to give a performance in the town, I take 
advantage of the opportunity to observe the native ele- 
ment that will surely gather there. I enter the canvas 
tent at 8 o'clock, and receive a cordial greeting from 
the proprietor, who is one of ni}^ countrymen, and who 
is at the door collecting the tickets. He bids me pass 
on, free of charge, so I climb to the top row of seats, 
and u^ait till " the band begins to play," 

Here is the usual queer, but happ}^ mixture of the 
nationalities usually found in the islands : Japanese, 
Portuguese, Chinese, residents and natives. 

Among the Kanakas are mau}^ women, 3'oung and 
old, smoking their pipes. The elite of the assembly 
are seated upon about thirt}^ chairs, for wliich the}^ 
have the privilege of pa3nng a higher price than the 
others. x\n hour of the entertainment is as much as I 
can stand, and I surprise my friends on the porch of 
the hotel by my premature appearance among them. 

After a restless night I find that Sunda}^ is to be 
spent driving in a comfortable carriage to places of in- 
terest in the neighborhood. 

Going in the direction of Cocoanut Island we have a 
fine view of the town of Hilo, which is snugly situated 
between her giant sentinels. Manna Loa and Alauna 
Kea. On the first of these I can see plainly a barren, 



THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE. 



Ill 



black streak running from the summit to within a mile 
of the city. This was caused by the flow of burning 
lava, thrown from the crater of the mountain in 1881, 
which nearl}^ destroyed Hilo. After an hour's drive 
we stop and attend a native church service. The 
minister, a half-caste, speaks earnestly and fluently, 




The Lo\'klv and I'icturk'-i M-'^- Cocdantt Isi^axo. 

of course in the Kanaka tongue. After lunch we visit 
the lovely and picturesque Cocoanut Island, where we 
are surprised to see native women bathing in the 
harbor, utterly devoid of clothing. It is, however, a 
common thing for both men and women in this country 
to bathe thus. 



112 VACATION DAA'S IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

The following inorniiig we leave Hilo, amid cheers 
and farewells from friends and acquaintances assembled 
on the shore to see the steamer ^' Kinau '^ depart. 

In consequence of a comparatively smooth sea and 
a heavy cargo, our return vo^^age is a delightful one. 
The weather is, with few exceptions, charming. We 
pass the lofty cliffs of Hamakua, with their numerous 
water-falls, and the charming valleys of Waimanu 
and Waipio, and after stopping at IMahukona, to land 
and receive freight, we bid a long farewell to the beauti- 
ful and romantic island of Hawaii. 

We have a rough sea, crossing the channel. As we 
approach Lahaino, on the Island of Alaui, the setting 
sun casts a glow of wonderful beaut}^ over the scene. 
At this station a native brings some green cocoanuts 
on board the steamer ; I partake of them, and find 
them quite palatable. 

After an uneventful passage, we anchor at Honolulu 
on schedule time, having been away on our trip just a 
week. 



FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN. 

Departure from Honolulu— The steamship " China "—Steerage pas- 
sengers— Punkalias — Morning swim— Birds' Island — Collecting fares — 
Chinese gamblers— Letters of introduction— Chopsticks— Yokohama 
harbor— Chinese merchants— Japanese guide — Streets of Yokohama — 
Japanese theatre— The Ishampooer^A Jinrikisha ride— ^Japanese fu- 
neral—Mississippi Bay— Negishi— Tea house of Tsukimikan. 

As we expect to sail for Yokohama, Japan, on the 
vsixth of August, on the steamship " China," we spend 
the fifth in packing and making such purchases as ma}^ 
add to our comfort during the vogage of twelve days 
before us. 

We rise bright and early on the day of sailing, and 
see upon the blackboard of the hotel that our steamer 
has arrived from San Francisco, and will leave for 
Yokohama at four o'clock this afternoon. 

We are delighted with the appearance of the vessel. 
The Captain is a fine gentleman of magnificent phy- 
sique, genial and kind, and master of his craft. Tlie 
smiling faces of the first officer and purser make us 
feel at home, and with good friends. 

And now we must say farewell to dear Honolulu and 
the kind friends who have done so much to make our 
stay here pleasant. They load us with sweet-scented 
8 113 



114 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

" leis," which are placed around our heads and upon 
our necks and shoulders. It is a lovely send-off! We 
are sorry to part with them, and feel that although we 
have been only three weeks on the islands, we have 
made true and lasting friends. 

At four o'clock the great propeller begins to agitate 
the water, and slowly and silently we leave behind us 
the ever beautiful land, so often and justly entitled 
'' the Paradise of the Pacific." 

Our steamer is a fine one in every respect, elegantly 
modeled, graceful and powerful. Her length is four 
hundred and sixty-five feet; drawing, when laden, 
twenty-six and one-half feet of water. Her beam aniid- 
ship measures forty-nine feet nine inches, her tonnage is 
five thousand two hundred and fifty and her estimated 
cost one million dollars. 

Order and cleanliness are everywhere manifest. The 
crew numbers one hundred and sixty-three, and is com- 
posed of thirty-four whites and one hundred and twenty- 
nine Chinamen. 

One can form an idea of her size, when I state that 
sixteen times around her deck are equal to a mile. With 
the large white awnings to protect us from the heat of 
the sun and the cinders and smoke from the stack, we 
may in perfect comfort enjoy the delightful sea air and 
ocean view. 

Glancing from our upper deck to the one below, we 



FIRST IMPRESvSION OF JAPAN. II5 

perceive many of the steerage passengers eating their 
snpper of rice, meat, and pickles. What adepts they 
are with their chopsticks ! There are a few Chinese 
women and children among them. The children are 
cunning little tots, like the Chinese dolls we see in 
America. While we are observing these interesting 
people, the Captain joins us, and tells me that if I 
wish to take a swim in a tank sixteen feet long, by ten 
wide, and about six feet deep, I can do so in water 
drawn from the ocean. At first I think he is joking, 
but he shows me a huge canvas on the lower deck 
suspended from the rigging. " This," he sa3^s, '' is 
filled every morning at five o'clock. A constant 
stream of w^ater is pumped into the tank, and those 
of the cabin passengers who wish nia}^ take a swim." 
I tell him that I will gladly avail myself of this privi- 
lege. 

There are many prominent persons on board, and as 
we sit at the Captain's table, we have an opportunity to 
make their acquaintance. We may literally say that 
w^e sit at the table of fortune, fame, and beauty. 

The two Chinamen pulling at the ropes which move 
the long silken punkahas have an Oriental effect, and 
this Eastern custom give us always a cool breeze in the 
dining-room. 

The da3^s come and go without event, as usual on 
shipboard. 



Il6 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

At half-past five this morning I am awakened by a 
tajDping on my stateroom door. Now for a dive in the 
great sea-water tank. 

Pntting on a Japanese kimono, I repair to the deck, 
where I find the Captain enjoying a swim. Monnting 
to the top of the tank, by means of a small ladder, I dive 
into water fully six feet deep. Can anything be more 
delightful and exhilarating than this ? After a half- 
hour's swim, I return to my stateroom fully repaid for 
rising so early. 

After meals we generally sit upon the spacious 
promenade deck, engaged in conversation, cards or 
other games. 

Here are the pretty flying-fish again surrounding us, 
and rising sometimes many feet above the water. 

Off on the horizon, Birds' Island is pointed out 
to us. As we approach it we can, with the aid of the 
glasses, see thousands of gulls and other birds resting 
upon this massive rock. We are now abreast of it. 
The gigantic rock, bearing no other life than that of 
the birds wdiich make it their home, and rising several 
hundred feet out of the water, looks black and dreary. 
But in the morning, when the sun is rising, and this 
rugged pile is aglov/ with the brilliant reflections of a 
rose-tinted sky, with the glistening colors of the ocean 
around it, the scene is grandly beautiful. The constant 
beating of the waves has worn caves at the base of the 



FIRST IMPREvSSION OF JAPAN. 117 

rock. In many places we can see qnite tlirongli its 
fonndation. 

Satnrday, Angust 8tli. — Shortly after breakfast we 
sail close to Gardiner Rock, an isolated region, nn- 
inhabited, unsightly, and desolate. 

Our attention has just been drawn to the forward 
lower deck, where, at the entrance to the hold, the 
purser and his assistants stand, collecting the tickets 
of the steerage passengers. 

They pass down the hold in single file, handing up 
their tickets as they go by. The occasion seems to 
afford them much amusement, judging by their broad 
smiles and loud laughter. 

When they return to the deck they again spread out 
their small squares of matting, gathered into groups 
of eight and ten, and settle down to the universal game 
of " poker," played with dominoes. The Chinese are 
great gamblers. It is interesting to observe a party of 
players, earnestly engaged, with a crowd of their 
countrymen around them, watching their movements. 
They play all day long, never seeming to tire or lose 
interest. 

The evenings are devoted by the cabin passengers 
to music, both vocal and instrumental, and playing 
cards. We are like a large congenial family. 

My first lesson in chopsticks is given b}^ a lady who 
resides in Japan. It is awkward work, and would, I 



Il8 VACATION DAYS I>^ HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

think, be very trying, if one were luingr}^, to depend 
upon such a slow means of conveying the food to the 
mouth. For practice, and to amuse myself, I persevere, 
and can soon pick up articles of food quite readil}^ I 
would not, however, recommend this custom to any 
one who wishes to enjoy his meals. 

I cannot distinguish a living thing upon the great 
space of water around me. No flying fish, gulls or 
other birds are visible. All is calm, placid, silent, rest- 
ful. We have not seen a vessel since leaving Honolulu. 
I think of the unknown world over which we are sailing, 
with such apparent ease and safety; of the three thousand 
seven hundred fathoms (twenty-two thousand two hun- 
dred feet) of water, the mountains and deep valleys, the 
caves, the wondrous vegetable growths and the myriads 
of living creatures, whose homes are in the sea, all 
hidden from our sight. 

We hope to arrive at Yokohama to-morrow morning 
at half-past six o'clock and eat our breakfast at the 
Grand Hotel. 

What joy to think of reposing blissfully on land 
once more, with this monotonous ocean travel,- for a 
time at least, ended. 

The sunset is such as to make an artist long to have 
his sketch block on his knee, and his brush in hand, 
to perpetuate, if possible, the scene before him. 

The sun is low on the horizon, casting in its descent 



FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN. II9 

a brilliant glow over tlie Heavens. The surface of the 
water responds with crimson light, and for the first time 
we see the land. The highest point of the great Fuji- 
yama rises to an altitude of more than thirteen thousand 
feet, against a background of illuminated clouds. As 
we gaze upon the magnificent scene, the Captain ap- 
proaches and asks how far we suppose we are from 
Fuji ? Various guesses are made. Some say thirty miles, 
some fifty. I wishing to overstate, boldly declare the 
distance to be seventy miles. We are informed that we 
are one hundred and fifty-seven miles from the moun- 
tain. So deceptive are distances at sea. But when one 
considers the height of Fuji, he ceases to wonder. 

This is our last dinner on shipboard, and, according 
to custom, the '' Captain's dinner." Toasts, speeches, 
and the usual merriment are its accompaniments. After 
a couple of hours of this entertainment we retire to our 
staterooms to finish packing. As the night advances, 
and all is quiet, I sit up in my berth and thrust my 
head through the port-hole to see what I can of Japan, 
and whether we are near the coast. Yes, about two 
miles away lies the land, and now and then I can see 
lights, but the scene is undistinguishable, and the night 
dark and chilly. When I step on deck in the morning, 
I find that we are at anchor in the harbor of Yokohama, 
and I have my first view of Japan, with the rain coming- 
down in torrents, and everything wet and disagreeable. 



I20 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



There are about a liuiidred sampans, or shore boats, 
around the steamer ; they are rowed by one or two oars- 
men, who, by hideous yells, make known their mission, 
which is to carry baggage or steerage passengers to the 
shore. Many accept, at a small cost, rather than wait 
for the steamer's barge. The hotel launch lies beside 




Harbor of Yokohama, Japan. 

the " China," and when we have said farewell to our 
friends, we step upon it and steam to the wharf 

The hotel porter inquires if we wish jinrikishas to 
take us to the Grand Hotel ? I feel like saying: '' Of 
course ! that is what we came to Japan for," but instead, 
meekly answer "yes." Upon which he calls three 



FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN. 121 

from about fifty jinrikislias that are waiting for passen- 
gers. Immediately they are before us with their bearers. 
We take our pkices in two, the third is filled with our 
luggage. Off we go at a dog trot, in Indian file. 

It is a novel situation ! A short ride brings us to 
the hotel, where the smiling manager informs us that 
he has awaiting us a fine large room, facing the bay. I 
wonder at this, having sent him no word. Upon 
inquir}^, v/e learn that a steamer friend, a resident of 
Yokohama, has preceded us in his ^^acht, and engaged 
the room. And kindness like this is manifested towards 
us during the whole of our sojourn in Japan. We are 
met by a good word or deed at ever}^ turn. 

We proceed to our room, and are preparing for break- 
fast in the large saloon, when a gentle rap on the door 
is heard. I open it, and there stands a Chinese tailor, 
Mr. Ah Sing, with samples of goods in his hands, and 
asks if we do not want some clothing? 

Glancing hastily at his samples I tell him to call 
again, as we have just arrived, and do not yet know 
what we will require. 

We flatter ourselves upon having easily disposed of 
this polite merchant, but no sooner is the door closed, 
than another tap is heard. " Come in !" I cr3^ '' Oh, 
good morning!" Here stands another tailor, with his 
arms full of clothing of all styles, and with smiling 
face solicits our order. We repeat our previous answer 



122 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



and Mr. Chang Cliou retires. Then taps and taps. We 
open to a number of them : Nan Sing, then Aha Sing, 
and many others. The monotony is broken only b}^ 
the appearance of a Japanese gentleman. No samples 
or other wares bedeck his person. I wonder what 
he can want ! Perhaps he is an undertaker, and 




The Grand Hotel, Yokohama. 



thinks we wish to be burled from the anno3^ances of 
the last hour. He is not an undertaker nor a tailor. 
He is a shoemaker, and politel}^ asks if we do not 
want some good American shoes ? We put him off as 
we did the others, and at last are ready for breakfast. 
Upon returning to our room, and while engaged in 



FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN. 1 23 

unpacking, \ve are literally besieged b}^ merchants, 
tailors, shoemakers, masseurs, guides, and I know not 
what others, for at last, in desperation, I lock the door, 
and leave the anxious knockers to imagine that we 
have died from the pressure of business. 

This afternoon we rest. Our room is on the second 
floor, and before it, runs a wide, well-shaded piazza, 
facing the beautiful harbor. We entertain ourselves 
by watching the strange craft in the bay, which are so 
numerous that mau}^ times we expect to see a collision. 
The men propelling these boats are very scantily clad, 
wearing only the loin-cloth required b}^ law. They 
appear muscular and athletic. 

On the street are young girls carrying the typical 
paper umbrella, with babies tied to their backs ; men, 
women, and children, all so odd looking! A living 
panorama of strange sights ! 

After dinner, our friend, Mr. C , knowing that we 

wish a reliable, honest, and intelligent guide, intro- 
duced Mr. Y. F. Shimidzu, a member of the " Kaiyusha 
Association " of " Licensed Guides of Japan." I like his 
appearance, and engage him by the month, instructing 
him to report at the hotel to-morrow. With the re- 
peated bowing incidental to polite Japan, he takes leave. 

After dinner we become restless, and think a little 
peep into the ways of the Japanese at night would be 
in order. Procuring two jinrikishas, we start off for 



124 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

an hour or two of siglit-seeiiig by ourselves. We can 
neither speak to our jinrikisha men nor the^^ to us, 
intelligent!}^, so we arrange, beforehand, that they will 
take us through some of the business streets, and bring 
us back to the hotel. What interesting and instructive 
sights are these, our first glimpses into the real living 




Ride THRouciH rui: Strki:ts of Yokohama. 

Japan ! We have read much of this country and its 
people, but nothing equals the impression made by this 
ride through the streets of Yokohama by night. 

Hundreds of pedestrians throng the streets and side- 
walks. Our jinrikisha men whirl rapidl}^ past them, 
and through the crowds gathered about the hucksters, 



FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN. 1 25 

calling out : " Hi ! Hi ! Hi !" The groups scatter in 
all directions, and we leave them gazing after us, queer 
foreign people. 

Stores and booths of every description line the side- 
walks, and with the native costumes of buyers and 
sellers, form a never-to-be-forgotten picture. 

As we approach a Japanese theatre, I tap my jinrik- 
isha man with my cane, and motion for him to take us 
to the entrance and there wait for us. 

When we enter we attract much attention, as we are 
the only foreigners (English or Americans) present. 
We are given box places, and as there are no chairs, 
we must sit upon our knees, as is the custom here. 
Men, women, children and babies compose the audience, 
many of whom gaze upon us, rather than upon the 
actors. I do not object to this notice, which would be 
given to them if the case were reversed, and the citizens 
of this country were visiting one of our theatres at 
home. The parquet is a perfectly bare floor, containing 
neither chairs, benches nor aisles. Here they squat, 
huddled close together. Where our parquet circle 
would be, the floor is raised about two feet and enclosed 
with a railing, within which sit the better classes of the 
people. During the performance the children walk 
about the theatre and even across the stage. I see three 
children, innocent of clothing, playing "tag" upon the 
stage, while the actors are performing their parts. 



126 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

The audience present a novel appearance. Children 
and adults generally wear loose clothing, and fre- 
quently only the simple garment called a kimono. 

The heat is oppressive, and the air foul from smok- 
ing, for in Japan every one smokes, young and old, 
male and female. Many of the children strip off their 
garments entirel}^, and are seen thus, sitting or lying 
upon the floor. Some of the ladies are so warm that 
they slip their kimonos off their shoulders, and bare 
themselves to the waist. ]\Ien are quite naked, except- 
ing the loin cloth. In this clad and unclad audience 
the greatest innocence prevails. No thought of impro- 
priety exists. In their cool attire they seem comforta- 
ble and content. Close b}^ us is a pair of lovers, quite 
young, and the girl ver\^ prett}^ and innocent looking, 
as she sits there with her kimono dropped to her waist. 

Upon returning to the hotel, I engaged the services 
of a masseur, called in Japan a shampooer, and retire, 
leaving orders to be called earl}^ in the morning. And 
I may say here, that if an order is given to a Japanese 
you can be sure that it will be promptly and accurately 
fulfilled. They never forget, and are as regular as 
clockwork. 

After a warm bath in the morning, I find Mr. Ikeda, 
the shampooer, awaiting me. He is a good looking 
young fellow, well built, and of pleasing manners. I 
observe his proceeding with interest. 



FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN. 



127 



He washes his hands with soap and water, then 
taking from the long baggy sleeve of his kimono a 
small bag or puff of rice powder, he powders the part 
to be rubbed, and with gentle manipulations, goes over 
the whole body, giving the head finally a special and 
extra rubbing. The entire operation occupies an hour. 




The Entire Operation Occupies an Hour. 

His charge is fifty sen, equivalent in American money 
to twenty-five cents. 

The more common masseurs, both men and women, 
walk through the streets, blowing at intervals a small 
wooden whistle, of shrill sound. These shampooers 
are generally blind, and charge as low as seven sen, or 



128 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

three and a half cents, for an hour's manipulation. The 
masseur is called Amma, the masseuse, Onna Amma. 

This morning is taken up with shopping, until lunch, 
or " ti£&n." 




A Blind Masseur or Shampooer. 



Our guide accompanies us everywhere. After tiffin, 
he calls three jinrikishas for an afternoon ride. The 
jinrikisha men wear large white canvas hats, on which 



FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN. 1 29 

are stamped in black letters their name, licensed num- 
ber, and the letters " G. H.," signifying Grand Hotel. 

We enter the frail looking carriages, ladies first and 
the guide in the rear. Our men have also stamped upon 
their hats their names, which are " Miya," '' Cho," and 
'' Suke." We ride in Indian file, two men being employed 
for each jinrikisha — one in the shafts and one to push 
at the back. We ride through a ver\^ interesting thor- 
oughfare, named Jizosoka Street, where the shops are 
all open, and we can see the various tradesmen at work. 
Here are men and women making straw hats and bas- 
kets, wooden shoes and sandals. Here are flower girls, 
cabinet makers, dyers, fishmongers, and dozens of others, 
all busily engaged in their different occupations, and 
presenting a scene resembling nothing we have ever 
before beheld. The total absence of feeling in regard 
to the exposure of the person, in men, women, and 
children, is everywhere apparent ; w^omen nude to the 
waist, men wearing nothing but the loin cloth, and 
children entirely naked, are seen on all sides. 

On the way we meet a Japanese funeral procession. 
A strange sight, compared with our iVmerican funerals ! 
The Japanese are much more simple. Two men carry, 
suspended from the centre of a pole, a closed square 
box, containing the corpse. This box is called a " kago," 
and is also used b}^ the Japanese in carrying tourists 
and other travelers over mountain roads that are too 
9 



1 2,0 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

rough for the jiiirikisha. Fifteen or twenty mourners 
following this hearse — some walking, others in jin- 
rikishas. 

While descending a very steep hill, I almost have a 
runaway. 

My jinrikisha men are both of light build, and as I 




In thp: Distancp: is thk Beautiful Mississippi Bay. 

am somewhat heavy for them, the jinrikisha goes faster 
and faster down the hill, until it is as much as the men 
can do to keep the frail vehicle from upsetting. I sit 
silent, fearing at times that I will be pitched out head- 
long, but curious to see the wind-up. I do not realize 
my danger until we have reached the bottom of the 



FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN. 



131 




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FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN. I33 

hill, when I thank my stars and the men's good legs 
for my safe deliverance. 

We ride along Izawa Street to the race-course. What 
an opportunity this part of the country offers to the 
artist ! Upon either side, rice, potatoes, mulberry 
trees, and many other products cover the fields as far 
as the eye can see. In the distance is the beautiful 
Mississippi Bay. We are on a high hill, from 
which we have a magnificent view of the country 
around us. 

Descending to the plain, we pass the shrine of the 
god, Sose, whose little wayside temple invites those who 
wish to worship. We see several persons upon their 
knees, engaged in prayer. 

Bamboo is freely grown here. What a romantic and 
picturesque landscape is before us. The road is shaded 
on both sides by bamboo and other tropical trees, and is 
quite foreign in appearance. Locusts fill the air with 
their file-like music. The atmosphere is cool and delight- 
ful, and the heavens cloudless, their soft blue adding to 
the beauty of the scene. We come to the little fishing 
village of Negishi near the bay, which we saw from 
the top of the hill. It consists of some fifty cottages 
or shanties huddled together, with heavy thatched 
roofs, resembling those one sees in the interior of 
southern Ireland. Plants are grown on the tops of the 
houses, their roots adding strength to the roofs, and 



134 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

protecting them against the heavy winds that fre- 
quently prevail here. 

In a short time we arrive at the famous tea house 
of Tsukimikan (meaning the Moon house), which 
is situated on the edge of Mississippi Ba3\ The 
name of this seashore resort is Honmoku, and here 




In a Short Time Wr Arrive at the Famous Tea House of Tsukimikax. 

are often seen many bathers frolicking in the cool 
waters. 

Leaving our jinrikishas, the men to rest and refresh 
themselves with tea and rice, we enter a clean and 
dainty house, and are met in the doorway by the smil- 
ing landlady and about eight little tea girls. These 



FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN. 1 35 

girls are called Kane, meaning coin, but a more polite 
term is Neisan, little girl. These little tots bow to us 
profoundly and continually, in accordance with the 
characteristic custom of this polite nation. No matter 
on what occasion we meet these interesting people, 
whether in shops, hotels, or places of amusement, the 
low and graceful obeisance is never omitted. Of course, 
our shoes are removed, and we walk in our stockings 
upon a floor as bright and clean as our table tops at 
home. 

We are invited up-stairs to a room facing the bay, 
and provided with cushions, upon which we sit a la 
Japanese, that is upon our knees, or rather on our feet 
turned under us. We are left alone a short time to 
rest, after which our guide calls one of the little tea 
maidens by clapping his hands. 

In response one of them cries : " Hei ! Hei ! Hei !" 
meaning 3^es, yes, yes, and in a moment two little 
cherr}^ faced creatures in Japanese dress come trotting 
towards us, and go down on their knees with innumer- 
able bows. Being requested to bring some tea, they 
go out and soon return with a tra}^ holding a pitcher of 
hot water, a tea pot, tea cadd}^, and some small cups and 
saucers. At the same time a wooden box is brought 
in, containing a bronze bowl filled with hot charcoal. 
With this, one lights his cigarette. A small bamboo 
box also appears, to be used as a cuspidor. 



136 VACATION DAYvS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

After refreshment and a smoke we sit 011 the veranda 
in front of onr room and watch the bathers. The men, 
and many of the yonng girls, wear only the loin cloth. 
They swim abont and have great fnn in the water. 

As I wish to see a pnblic bath, which I learn is con- 
nected with the honse, I ask my gnide if I can take a 
hot bath ? 

He makes the necessary arrangements, and then 
accompanies me to the first floor, where a private bath 
is drawn for me. In going to it, I mnst pass throngh 
the pnblic bathroom. Here I see fonr or five naked 
men nibbing themselves down. In another corner are 
seven or eight women, also naked, enjo3nng a wash. 
They do not mind my presence in the least. As I pass 
them, I wonder what a nnniber of Americans wonld do 
on a similar occasion. Withont doubt a great scramble 
for seclnded places wonld ensne, if I were compelled 
to pass them while in this nnde state. Not so here. 
Perfect unconsciousness is manifest, and where no 
thought of shame exists, purity alone reigns. 



JINRIKISHA RIDES AND NOVEL EXPERI- 
ENCES. 

A Japanese afternoon tea — Shoes in Japan — Yamasliita — Mrs. 
Sliimasaki's— The great tattooer— Seeing the " Elephant "—Wooden 
tickets — Maganechio — Demi-monde— Earthquake -Sitting for our pic- 
tures — Along the canal. 

Our guide, ever thinking of some new pleastire for 
us, suggests a visit to his home, promising us a genu- 
ine Japanese afternoon tea. We accept his invitation 
gladly, and soon after our little wagons stop in front 
of a two-storied wooden cottage on the otitskirts of 
Yokohama. Taking off oiir shoes we enter, and are 
ushered into a room on the second floor. The houses of 
Japan are generally built of wood, and are not more 
than two stories higli. There is no furniture in the 
back room, through which we pass, btit in the front 
room we find chairs and tables arranged quite in 
" American " fashion. 

I tell Mr. Shimidzu that I thought we were invited 
to a Japanese tea. He replies that as it would be uncom- 
fortable for us to sit as the Japanese do, he had chairs 
and tables introdnced into his hotise for his American 
and European friends, of whom he has many, for he is 

^2>7 



138 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

considered one of the best and most intelligent gnides 
in Japan. Afternoon teas are called in Japan, ''Oclia." 

In a short time the two daughters of Mr. Shimidzn, 
girls of fifteen and sixteen years of age, appear, and 
are introduced to us in the American fashion. They 
are very charming. One of them speaks a little English. 

Retiring to an adjoining room they give us some 
music, one playing upon a samisen or guitar. The 
music is odd and sweet. Then the wife of our guide 
comes in with smiling face and gracious greeting. 
What pleasant people these are, ever happy and merr3^ 
She sets before us a tray of rice and fried eels, and, 
instead of knives and forks, chopsticks are handed us. 
Now I am grateful for my practice on board the steamer, 
but nevertheless, our awkwardness causes them all much 
merriment. A small box is placed before us containing 
incense, or " ko,'^ which, being lighted, fills the room 
with a sweet, delicate odor. After the rice and eels, a 
dish of something resembling preserved ginger is 
passed around. Tea is then served, accompanied by a 
sweetmeat called "yokan," made of sugar, red beans, 
and gelatine. We chat as well as we can, with our 
guide as interpreter. Rare curios, the collection of 
mau}^ years, are shown us. We spend two delightful 
hours with them, then say good-b3^e. Having by this 
time learned the art to perfection, we keep on bowing 
and bowing until we have reached the threshold, when, 



JINRIKISHA RIDES AND NOVKt EXPERIENCES. 139 

with a tip of the hat, which is never seen in Japan, except 
from foreigners, we betake onrselves to our jinrikishas, 
and turn our faces homeward. 

We wish to become acclimated to this new country 
by degrees, so think it best to visit places in the neigh- 
borhood of Yokohama until our more extensive pro- 
gramme can be carried into effect. Our mornings are 
devoted to shopping and local amusements. 

After " tiffin " to-day, we walk to the canal, where we 
hire a sampan and are rowed to a bathing resort on 
Mississippi Bay, about two miles distant. The name 
of the place is Yamashita, meaning foot of the moun- 
tain. Here we find some fifty men, women, and children 
bathing promiscuously. The beach is lined with tea 
houses, where persons may watch the bathers and be 
served with hot tea. There are no bath houses here, 
where men and women may make their toilets. All 
changes are made in the open air, " without fear or 
trembling." There is little to interest us here, so we 
return to our starting point, pay our boatman, and walk 
to the noted establishment of Mrs. Shimasaki. A knock 
at the frail door causes the lady of the house to slide it 
back, and with courteous bows and smiles to bid us 
enter. This establishment is devoted to fine embroidery 
and linen work. We make several purchases, then ask 
if we may visit the workroom. Upon being conducted 
thither, we see some nine or ten little girls, so small 



140 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

that really, in walking about, I am afraid that I will 
accidentally tread upon them. These children are 
adepts with their fingers and the needle. We are shown 
a large and delicate piece of work, upon which three 
of them are engaged at the same time. It represents a 
cobweb. The design is made by a young man artist, 
and the girls carry it out with silk and linen threads. 
It is true to nature, and the portion completed, most 
exquisitely worked. These girls receive only about five 
cents a day for their labor. 

We also visit the greatest tattooer in Japan, whose 
name is M. Hori Chiyo. His card bears the following 
announcement : " Patronized by H. R. H., Princes 
Albert Victor and George, and having testimony of 
Marquises, Counts, and other particular families." This 
circular always accompanies his card : ''As my art of 
tattooing has been frequently noticed in the American 
and European press. I had a taste of drawing from 
very young age. I entered the Tokyo Fine Arts 
Academy, and after graduating in the drawing course, 
I studied assiduously the art of tattooing. Being not 
satisfied with the common crude works of the profes- 
sion, I devised various new methods, and attained to the 
highest degree of perfection, as to the minuteness and 
artistic effects, which will delight and surprise to 
behold. The tattooing being nnlike those species of 
engravings, care must be taken to have the work done 



JINRIKISHA RIDES AND NOVEL EXPERIENCES. 14I 

in a perfect and high-toned manner ; otherwise, once it 
is executed, cannot be retouched, but remains lifelong 
on the body as a scar, if badly done and not liked. 
My specialty is the crest, monogram, and portrait. 
The distinct minuteness of the work shall not be 
approached by others. My designs are unlike any pat- 
terns kept by others. I make fresh designs every year, 
and select only those that will suit my patrons, which 
amounts above two thousand. The needles and 
materials which I daily employ, I use fresh ones for 
every patron. I take special precaution against possible 
dangers, not to use the needles that have been employed 
for another body. My object is not in making money 
by the work, but I covet to spread the art all over the 
world, and promote my reputation. All tourists who 
come to Japan from Europe and America are solicited 
to patronize my work, as it may serve as a memento of 
pleasant sojourn or visit to the fair land of ' Rising 
Sun ' at such and such period of one's age.'^ 

We are received by Mr. Chiyo's wife, a bright and 
pleasant little Japanese woman, who invites us to be 
seated and excuses herself. In a few moments the 
world-renowned M. Hori Chiyo enters, and after a 
cordial greeting, asks us into his workroom. It is our 
good fortune to see Mr. Chiyo working upon the fore- 
arm of a very young man. The design, in many 
colors, represents the Japanese dragon, and is fully ten 



142 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

inches long. The execution is artistic and exquisite 
both in color and detail. I ask the young man who 
by the way, is a Philadelphian, how long he has been 
in the chair? He replies, since early morning, and 
that the design will require a day for completion. The 
designs are selected from a book, containing many 
hundreds of patterns, and will be produced upon what 
ever part of the body is desired. Mr. Chiyo assures me 
that the dyes are permanent, and seems quite alarmed 
when I tell him that I can remove the design from the 
body of the gentlemen upon whom he is working. He 
inquires anxiously how this can be accomplished? I 
reply : " By cutting off the arm at the elbow." He 
smiles and looks greatly relieved at what he calls my 
American wit. His wife's arms, at which he allows me 
to look, are most beautifull}^ tattooed from the shoulders 
down. Mr. Chi3^o\s bod}^ is also elaboratel}^ decorated, 
so much so that one could readily imagine that it has a 
covering of some exquisitely fine fabric. He assures 
me that he is completely tattooed with his own original 
designs. 

Thinking I have had enough novelty for to-day, I 
give myself up to an evening on the hotel porch, listen- 
ing to the Japanese band playing English and American 
operas. As I am enjo^nng myself thus, the guide 
approaches, and with repeated bowing asks if I would 
like to go out to see the " elephant ?" Wondering in 



JINRIKISHA RIDES AND NOVEL EXPERIENCES. 143 

what respects the Japanese elephant differs from that 
in other parts of the world, such as Paris, London, and 
Berlin, I am, notwithstanding my fatigue, persuaded to 
go and see him when he is to be seen. 




And the People in their Quaint and Picturesque 
Costumes are very Interesting. 

Procuring two jinrikishas, we are soon riding rap- 
idly through the city streets. How beautiful a Japa- 
nese city is at night ! Thousands of lighted lanterns 



144 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

hang from the shops, and the throngs of people in 
their quaint and picturesque costumes are very inter- 
esting. 

We ride along the main street to Onoicho Street, 
thence to Basha Street, and, crossing the Kanenohashi 
bridge, we come to Isezakicho, or Theatre Street, which 
is to me the most interesting street in Yokohama. 
It seems to be the general thoroughfare. Hundreds 
and hundreds of men, women, and children promenade 
the street and sidewalks, laughing, talking, and enjoy- 
ing life in their own happy way. The stores on either 
side and the various booths offer their wares at tempt- 
ing prices to the customer of limited means. For 
whole squares may be seen merchants who have spread 
matting upon the street, and placed thereon goods and 
cheap articles to catch the fancy of the populace. It 
is not uncommon to see a group of ten, fifteen, or 
twenty gathered around one of these street venders, 
who declaims earnestly in praise of his goods, with a 
joke sandwiched in to hold his listeners until a sale is 
completed. 

In this street theatres and other places of amuse- 
ment abound, and the excitement is increased by the 
constant beating of drums and cymbals and the Japa- 
nese bands playing national music. Songs and the 
'' samisen " are also heard. Yes, this is the street of 
all streets in Yokohama ! 



JINRIKISHA RIDES AND NOVEL EXPERIENCES. 145 

At length the jinrikishas halt, and we alight before 
a Japanese circus. Paying for a ticket to the best part 
of the house twenty sen, or ten cents in American 
mone}^, we enter. The tickets of admission are not small 
cards, such as we use in our theatres, but long wooden 
tablets, nine and a half inches in length, two inches 




We Come: to Isezakicho, or Theatre Stree;t, the Most Inter- 
esting Street in Yokohama. 



wide, and a quarter of an inch thick, with Japanese 
writing on both sides. They are given up at the door 
as we enter the theatre. Here are also sold wooden 
shoe checks. For the sum of one sen shoes are checked 
and left outside the theatre. As I am a foreigner I am 
10 



146 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

allowed to keep mine on my feet. Perhaps they think 
I ^vear no stockings, and am ashamed to expose my 
naked feet. 

We are shown to a box on the second floor, from 
which we view the strange mass of human beings. The 
performance is poor, compared with those of our great 




Wk Next Visit the Maganechio. 

Barnum or Forepaugh, the most famous shows in the 
world. The lower floor is bare of ever3^thing save the 
leather cushions that can be had for one sen, in addition 
to the admission fee, which is three sen in this part of 
the house. 

Japanese programmes represent the order of the play 



JINRIKISHA RIDES AND NOVEL EXPERIENCES. I47 

by pictures, thus at a glance you are able to follow the 
performance. Before we leave the circus I ask the 
guide to purchase for me one of the wooden admission 
tickets, jestingly remarking that perhaps I can have 
them introduced into our theatres at home. The ticket 
agent generously presents me with one of the tablets, 
for which, however, I return a small fee. 

We next visit the Maganechio, entering with our jin- 
rikishas through a lofty gateway. This is one of many 
places of a similar order throughout Japan. It is a 
large enclosure, with a moat on one side, and a high 
stone wall surrounding the houses, which almost form 
a village of themselves, W^itli the exception of the 
stores that supply food, clothing, and other articles, the 
houses are devoted to the demi-monde. There are many 
streets, with rows of houses, each containing dozens of 
girls, between the ages of twelve and twenty-four 3^ears. 

In the front part of each house is a long room facing 
the street, protected onl}^ by a wooden grating, behind 
which the girls are required to sit in rows, awaiting 
their selection by a customer. These houses are gen- 
erally managed b}^ women, and are under the protection 
and inspection of the government. 

Any girl or woman in Japan found guilty of prosti- 
tution is arrested and placed in one of these houses of 
the Maganechio. The government also provides hos- 
pitals for these unfortunates. 



148 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

In justice to many of them, I must state that this life 
is not always led by them of their own free will. They 
are frequently placed here b}^ parents to pay off a debt, 
and are compelled to remain until the}^ have earned a 
certain sum of money. 

Yesterday we had our first experience of an earth- 




In the Front of each House is a Long Room Pkotp:cte:d only 

BY A Wooden Grating. 



quake in Japan. While writing at a table, I was 
startled by seeing things sway to and fro. The chan- 
delier shook violently, and the building began to rock. 
For an instant my presence of mind deserted me, but 
the natural impulse is to run somewhere, and as the 



JINRIKISHA RIDES AND NOVEL EXPERIENCES. 149 

9 

doors are generally open, I quickly found myself on 
the porch with others, awaiting further developments. 
The hotel continued to sway for nearly a minute, then 
ceased, and the earthquake was over. But the feeling 
was decidedly unpleasant. Natives and residents here 
are quite used to these antics, and look upon an earth- 
quake, unless very severe, as we do upon an April 
shower. They are of frequent occurrence. 

I am told that a prominent scientist stated the islands 
of Japan are in constant motion, caused b}- volcanic 
action, but that the inhabitants have become accustomed 
to it. Their frail wooden houses, however, readil}^ suc- 
cumb to a really severe earthquake. It is generall}^ ad= 
mitted that the safest place during a severe shock is 
near the house, as many incidents are recorded of 
natives who have met their death b}^ running into the 
streets or roads, and been swallowed up b}^ the great 
seams that opened in the earth. 

To-da}^ being clear and cool, we decide to have our 
photographs taken in Japanese costume ; so in the 
necessary jinrikishas we proceed in Indian hie along 
the Bund, or ocean drive, to the photographer's. On 
the beach, it being low tide, we see many 3'Oung girls, 
in their picturesque costumes, gathering shells, wdiich, 
we learn, are crushed and used for mortar and fertiliz- 
ing purposes. Mr. Kimbei, wdiose studio is situated 
upon Honcho-Dori Street, is the best photographer in 



I50 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND TAPAN. 



Yokohama. We enter with our guide, and upon making 
known our wishes are shown up-stairs to a dressing-room, 
where a charming little Japanese girl dresses the foreign 
ladies in Japanese costume. A Japanese gentleman is 
also engaged to attire the men. This assistance is 
quite necessary. When dressed, we are told to sit Jap- 




Here May be Seen the Lantern Maker. 

anese fashion, that is, to cross the legs under one ; and 
we remain in this uncomfortable position until our pho- 
tographs are taken. 

When this is accomplished, we ride along the canal 
to the village of Negishi. It is a ver}^ interesting drive 
on account of the many curious stores that line the 



JINRIKISHA RIDES AND NOVEL EXPERIENCES. 15I 




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JINRIKISHA RIDKS AND NOVKL E;XPERIENCES. I53 

sidewalks. Here may be seen the lantern maker and 
umbrella manufacturer. Both lanterns and umbrellas 
are made of oiled paper, and may be exposed to sun and 
rain without injury. These umbrellas are almost uni- 
versally used in the country, and to a large extent in the 
city. Here, too, is the wigmaker, whose custom is 




11i:ki. is a Draticr Uisi'LAVING His Goods from the Upen !• roxt. 

chiefly among the actors, as the natives generally have 
magnificent hair. Baldness is almost unknown in 
Japan. Here is a draper displaying his goods from the 
open front. In making a purchase, one sits upon a 
platform in the front of the store, the merchant squat- 
ting before you, will show you any article in his stock. 



J 54 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Various street venders offer provisions for sale, carry- 
ing, as it vvere, their stores upon their Imcks. 

On the outskirts of the city we pass a blacksmith's 
shop, where the men are industriously engaged upon 
all kinds of iron work, more especially the frames of 
wagons, jinrikishas, etc. 

In the canal is a large barge laden with coal, which is 
being borne off by men and women coolies in baskets 
upon their shoulders. As they cross the gang-plank a 
watchman stands close by with a long, heavy stick to urge 
them on should they lag in their dut3^ Bo3^s and girls 
and some men are knee-deep in the water of the canal, 
shell gathering. This canal is a ver}^ active thorough- 
fare. Barges laden with vegetables, rice, shells, and 
various other goods are pushed by men with long bam- 
boo poles or sculled with a large oar. 

As we pass through the village we are greeted by the 
natives with, "O-hayo!" (good-morning), or " Konni- 
chi-wa?" (how do you do?) smiling and nodding their 
black heads. 

At one of the tea houses, where we rest and have 
tea and sweetmeats, the polite landlad}- bows so repeat- 
edly and so close to the ground that I entertained 
fears of her turning a somersault, but her experience 
in such profound matters enables her to avoid this 
catastrophe. One cannot help appreciating the kind- 
ness and attention universally shown to foreigners ; 



JINRIIvlSriA RIDES AND NOVKI. EXPERIENCES. 155 

from both high and low we have found this worthy 
of note. 

At the tea houses throughout Japan, where the tourist 
pauses to rest a few moments and relieve his cramped 
limbs after a long ride in the jinrikisha, a small fee 
of about ten sen is expected for the tea and service. 
Upon entering one of these wayside inns a small tra}^,' 
called " bon," is placed before the guest. Upon this is 
a teapot, teacups, and a cadd}^ of tea, hot water, some 
sweetmeats, generally mint candy, and a small charcoal 
fire, from which to light the pipe or cigarette. 



KAMAKURA AND ENOSHIMA. 

Kamakura— The Icho Tree — Ud-di-jin and Sa-di-jin — Temple of Ha- 
chi-man — Onna Ishi and Otoko Ishi — Lotus Pond— Daibutsu — Temple 
of Kwannon— Katase — Food in Japan— Enoshima — Kin Kiro Inn — 
Mountain Cave — Goddess of Luck — Diver — Japanese mone}- - Statistics. 

We rise early this morning, the da}^ being favorable 
for onr trip to Kamaknra and Enoshima. Kamaknra 
is fift}^ minntes b}- railroad, changing cars at Ofnna 
Junction. The conntr}' along this ronte is fnll of in- 
terest, for many villages are passed, and we see the 
Japanese in their national costnmes and in their low 
frame houses or lints. Far off in the distance the peak 
of the noble Fuji-yama is ever in view. 

Our gnide alwa^^s accompanies ns, bnt travels sec- 
ond-class, both in the railway coaches and when stop- 
ping over-night at the inns. He carries onr Innch, 
which is pnt np for ns at the hotel before we start on 
a day's jannt. What strange sights we constantly see 
at these stations, especialh^ at some distance from the 
cities ! Here are men and women and children in na- 
tive costume, wearing the proverbial wooden shoes. 
They ma}^ be seen hurr3nng hither and thither, shuf- 
fling their feet and making a noise that sounds as if we 
had struck a forest at midday filled with locusts. 
156 



KAMAKURA AND ENOSHIMA. 1 57 

When we reach the terminus our attentive guide is 
at the door of our coach, assists us to alight, and calls 
three jinrikishamen, with their little carriages. Each 
carriage is provided with an extra man, for our ride 
from this point is to be a long, hard pull. After a short 
controversy about the price the guide gives the order, 
'' Go !" and we are off, at a dog-trot gait, for the famous 
temple of Hachi-man. 

On the road we pass through such strange places and 
see such odd sights that we rub our eyes and wonder if 
we are not dreaming. Here is a little village ; the na- 
tives, eager and curious to catch a glimpse of the for- 
eigners, are standing in their doorways, smiling at our 
strange appearance. Although this road is frequently 
traveled over by tourists, the interest with which the 
native looks upon the foreigner never loses its inten- 
sit\\ 

The thatched roofs which shelter the cottagers from 
the sun's rays and the beating storms have become 
quite familiar to us. We have reached Kamakura. 
The village is composed of a number of small cottages, 
shops, and tea houses. Leaving the jinrikishas, we 
now proceed on foot, passing under two ancient torii 
(torii meaning literally bird's rest) and over a prettily 
constructed circular bridge. Beautiful lotus flowers in- 
vite us to pause, but we go on, and at last stand on the 
steps leading to the ancient and renowned temple of 



158 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Haclii-man. Midway up we pass under the brandies 
of the noble Icho tree, which is about twenty feet in cir- 
cumference, and is said to be a thousand years old. It 
spreads wide its boughs^ covered with thick foliage. 




Large Bell — Kamakura. 



Still ascending, we see on either side of the wide stair- 
way two wooden images, enclosed in cages and appar- 
ently keeping guard over the temple. The one on our 



KAMAKURA AND KNOSHIMA. 1 59 

ri^lit is called Ud-di-jiii, or " Right Minister," and that 
on the left Sa-di-jin, or " Left Minister." These min- 
isters are supposed to keep a safe watch over the tem- 
ple. Both ministers are covered with paper spit-balls 
which have been thrown at them from time to time, and 
have stuck fast. There is a superstition among the 
Japanese that if a wish be written on paper, then 
chewed and thrown at a favorite god or goddess, the 
wish will be fulfilled if the paper adheres to the image; 
if it falls off it is an unfavorable omen. 

We stand before the great temple, within whose walls 
are enclosed those things which are most sacred to the 
native of Japan. Curious suits of old armor, masks, 
swords, and spears may be seen in the series of rooms 
filled with evidences of ancient history. We pass many 
shrines, noted in the traditions of this people. Not 
far from the main temple, enclosed b\^ a wooden rail- 
ing are two large stones. Upon asking what peculiar 
interest is attached to them, our guide tells us that the 
one on the right is called Onna Ishi, or female stone, 
and the one on the left Otoko Ishi, or the male stone. 
The peculiar natural formation of the first stone has 
given it its name. It is of great age. It is said that 
barren women wishing children may have their genera- 
tion perpetuated by simply rubbing this stone. The 
male stone is placed there merely as a companion to the 
female stone. 



l6o VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Descending the hill, we see at our feet a lovely lotus 
pond, covering several acres. The leaves of some of 
the plants are fully four feet in diameter, and the 
flowers are enormous, measuring from twelve to fourteen 
inches across. They are white and pink, and are now 
(August) at the height of their bloom. 

We return to our jinrikishas, and a short ride brings 
us to the presence of the Great Buddha, or Daibutsu, 
a masterpiece of Japanese art and skill. This image 
was cast in bronze in 1252 A. D. It is about fifty feet 
high and ninety-eight feet in circumference ; the length 
of the face is eight feet and a half, of the eyes, four feet, 
and the ears, six feet and a half. The e3^es are said to 
be of pure gold. 

We enter by a gateway into the hollow form of the 
Daibutsu, and find therein several smaller statues, 
among them one of iVmida-Butsu. Retracing our 
steps, we stand again before the majestic figure. It is 
truly a marvelous work, and represents a stupendous 
amount of labor. A solemn stillness surrounds this 
idol of the people\s faith and hope. As I look up to 
the calm powerful countenance, I think of the thou- 
sands of penitents who annually offer up their prayers 
to God through this image. 

As we stand, filled with wonder and admiration, many 
worshipers prostrate themselves before the shrine, and 
with audible prayers supplicate the blessing of the god. 



KAMAKURA AND ENOSHIMA. l6l 

The temple of Kwaiinon stands upon an eminence 
overlooking the plain of Kamakura. It is celebrated 
for the great image of the Goddess of Mercy, which is 
here concealed from public view behind folding doors. 
A small fee to the attendant enables one to gaze upon 
this beautiful idol, which is made of brown lacquered 
wood, gilded over, and is thirty feet five and a half 
inches high. There are many small images within the 
temple, of which much might be said. The god of 
Money sits upon two sacks of rice, holdirig in his hand 
a mallet, and the native belief is that prayer to this 
god for help in financial affairs will be answered. In 
front of the shrine is a small wooden image resting on 
its knees. This god rules that part of the body sub- 
ject to pain and disease, blindness, deafness, and other 
afflictions, and if the petitioner will rub the god in a 
part corresponding with that of the pain in his own 
body, he will be healed. Unfortunately I have neither 
aches, pains nor disease, consequently I cannot test the 
efficacy of this all-powerful idol. 

Having seen enough of shrines and temples for to- 
day, the guide directs our men to the picturesque and 
beautiful Enoshima. (" Eno " signifies bay, and 
'^ shima " island.) But Enoshima is really a 2:)eninsula, 
for it is surrounded by the sea only at high tide. Our 
ride is along the sea, and we can perceive the village 
far off at the water's edge. As it is high tide, Eno- 
11 



l62 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

shima is an island. There is, however, a bridge con- 
necting it with the mainland. As we ride along the 
beach we see numbers of fishermen, standing up to 
their armpits in water, fishing with long poles. They 
are said to be very expert with hook and line, and the 
fish here are excellent. 

At the village of Katase we leave our men, for we 
must walk from here to Enoshima. We stop and rest 
at one of the tea houses in the neighborhood, and while 
our tea is being served we see our jinrikisha men strip 
off their clothing, consisting of a very light cotton 
undershirt and a pair of thin trunks, and go thus 
naked to a tub near by filled with clean water, give 
themselves a thorough washing and put on fresh suits ; 
then proceed to wash the soiled garments they have 
taken off, and hang them in the sun to dry. I admire 
their cleanliness, which may be said to extend to all 
the inhabitants of Japan. They seem to live more by 
washing than by eating. 

We have had tea and a pleasant rest, and now again, 
just before leaving, a pretty little girl brings us hot tea 
and sweetmeats of powdered rice flavored with mint, and 
the usual charcoal fire,from which we light our cigarettes. 
Then the landlady bows and bows and bows. Gracious ! 
I think she will never stop ! And with every bow she 
utters the droll words : " Mata-Irasshai " (Please come 
again). We say, " Sayonara " (Good-bye). 



KAMAKURA AND ENOSHIMA. 



163 



The tea throughout Japau is served very weak, aud 
without sugar or milk. Sugar, butter, and milk are 
found in this country only in the large cities and open 
ports. The principal food of the natives is boiled rice, 
raw eggs, fish raw or cooked, pickles, and sake, a 
Japanese whiskey distilled from ricCo 




Passing Through a Tori We Enter the Main Street. 

An hour's walk brings us to the village of Enoshima. 
Passing through a tori, we enter the main, and, in fact, 
only street, which is very narrow, with ascending steps 
and numerous shops, which keep small articles to sell to 
the tourist, such as boxes, chopsticks, fans, balls made of 
marble or stone, strings of shells, and pin-cushions. 



164 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

On the mountain side, facing the ocean, at the end 
of the street, are three pretty inns which are the favor- 
ite resort of the tourist. Many foreigners spend days 
and even weeks here in summer. I ask the guide to 
which one we are going. He replies : 

'' To the best one, the Kin-Kiro Inn." 

In a few moments we are at the door. We freely 
use the words, " 0-hayo " (Good-morning), or '' Kon- 
nichi-wa " (How do you do?) and the landlady bows 
profoundly and repeatedly. Then appear half a dozen 
pretty little waiting-girls, with sweet smiles, and still 
more profuse bowing. 

We remove our shoes and enter. To-day, at least, I 
am grateful for this custom, so restful to tired feet. 
Our tiny maidens precede us to the second floor, where 
we are given two pleasant rooms facing the ocean. A 
delightful breeze blows through, directly from the sea. 

Our guide prefers to take his meal below, of Japanese 
food, in his own native fashion. Ours is served in 
our rooms. A queer little table, about eight inches 
from the ground, is placed before us, and soft cushions 
given us to sit iipon. I tell them I want to eat with 
chopsticks, which causes the little maidens much 
amusement. 

We are served with rice, eggs, tea, and sweetmeats, 
and as we are hungry, the meal is quite palatable. 
Three pretty girls sit beside us and fan us while we 



KAMAKURA AND ENOSHIMA. 1 65 

are eating. These girls, sixteen or eighteen years of 
age, are hired to the inns by their parents, and are gen- 
erally from the conntry, many of them never having 
seen a large town or city. They are called " Cha3^a 
Onna," or tea-house women, but I prefer the more 
polite term of " Neisan," or little girl. Strange are the 
sights presented by the adjoining rooms! The onl}^ 
partitions are screens, and these are rarely closed in 
hot weather, so that one is well aware of all that goes 
on in his neighbor's apartment. 

In the room next to us, two Japanese young men are 
preparing for a dip in the ocean. Having cast off their 
kimonos, they attire themselves in loin-cloths, and walk 
by us across the porch and down a footpath to the 
beach. In another room a mother and her two daugh- 
ters are also making their toilet for the bath, exchang- 
ing their native dress for the kimono provided by the 
inn for this purpose. 

After tiffin, our guide proposes a tour of the island, 
and we take a long, hot ramble, up and down the hills, 
with a coolie at our heels carrying our traps. We go 
through pretty bits of woodland and along a narrow- 
road, bordered by numerous tea houses, and at last 
reach the open on the other side of the island, at an 
elevation of six or seven hundred feet. 

The cool breeze is refreshing, and we find here several 
tea houses on a prominent point overhanging the sea ; 



l66 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

in one of them we rest and refresh ourselves. We 
have a magnificent view from this point. The ocean 
spreads out as far as the eye can see, an3 from the base 
of the mountain great rugged rocks project their sharp 
points along the coast, while the waves come dashing 
in with a roar, casting their spray high in the air. 




We Go Through Pretty Bits of Woodland and Along 
A Narrow Road. 



We descend by steps cut in the rocks, and wander 
along from point to point, taking care not to slip on the 
wet stones, until we come to the mouth of a cave in the 
side of the mountain. This cave has always been con- 
sidered a sacred spot by the natives. There are many 



KAMAKURA AND ENOSHIMA. 167 

traditions connected with it and the island, the most 
popular of which is the following : 

" In the sixth year of the reign of Kai-Kwa-Tenno, 
152 B. c, the site of this cave was the abode of a terri- 
ble dragon, who devoured the children of the village of 
Koshio^oe. About that time there was a violent earth- 
quake. Black clouds covered the sea, and the waves 
mounted to heaven. Celestial music was heard, and in 
a rift of the clouds appeared the divinely beautiful Ben- 
ten, the Buddhist Goddess of Luck, accompanied by two 
lovely boys. The island of Enoshima suddenly rising 
from the waters, she descended to it, subjugated the 
dragon, and was worshiped by all the inhabitants 
along the coast." 

Her image, now removed, was placed by Yoritomo in 
this cave in the year 1182 A. D. The various accounts 
confuse one as to the actual history of the discovery of 
the cave. Be that as it may, this is a most picturesque 
spot. Looking into the cave, you would imagine it to 
be at least forty feet high. As we enter the waves come 
rushing with great force to our very feet, as if angry at 
our intrusion. At a distance of about a hundred and 
fifty feet we are supplied with candles to illuminate the 
gloomy depths. The cave becomes smaller and smaller 
as we advance. Here is a little shrine at which we are 
expected to make an offering of a few sen for safe de- 
liverance secured by this special god. 



l68 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

The space is now so narrow and low that after going 
one hnndred feet farther, we mnst stoop to prevent onr 
heads from bumping against the roof. Now we creep 
through an opening of not more than three feet, and 
we continue in this cramped position for a distance of 
apparent!}^ about fifty feet, when we are at the end of 
the cave. How dark, damp, and still it is ! Our flick- 
ering candles cast about us an uncanny yellow light, 
and many strange thoughts flit through our brains. 
What if this spot is really haunted b}^ a powerful god- 
dess, who could appear, and in the twinkling of an eye 
transport us to some undreamt of realm ! I think it 
wise to offer a prayer to this goddess of luck to get us 
safel}^ out of this wet and unattractive chamber. 

After some twenty minutes more of this meditation, 
we retrace our steps, and gladly breathe the pure air 
again with a clear sky above us. 

At the entrance to the cave we notice a Japanese 
athlete standingnaked,excepting the loin-cloth about his 
waist, and poised on the very edge of a huge rock that 
overhangs the sea. The guide informs us that he is a 
diver, and for a few sen will plunge to the bottom of the 
sea, a depth of thirty feet, and, as an evidence of this feat, 
will bring up shells gathered there. I cheerfully hand 
the trifling sum required, five sen, for the performance 
of this hazardous undertakinQf. Waiting for an enor- 
nious wave to reach the edge of the rock on which he 



KAMAKURA AND ENOSHIMA. 1 69 

stands, the diver plunges into its threatening crest and 
is lost to sight for fully a minute. Just as I am begin- 
ning to feel uneas}^, a black spot becomes visible on a 
breaker that is hissing towards us, and as the wave 
rushes onward, the speck proves to l3e the form of the 
diver. He is literall}^ carried upon its back and landed 
safel}^ on the rock from which he plunged. He holds 
in his hand some beautiful shells of mother-of-pearl. 
As I am relieved of my painful apprehensions b}' see- 
ing the fellow safe and sound, I double my contribu- 
tion, wliicli seems to please him immensel}'. 

We walk back to our jinrikishas, and again partake of 
the hospitalit}^ of the polite landlady, and are off for 
Yokohauia, which we reach in good time. 

Tlie next few da3\s are spent in resting and making 
preparations for our tour through northern and west- 
ern Japan. 

In making tliis journe}^ to the interior, it is necessar}^ 
to be provided with an extra quantit}^ of clothing, 
mone}^, flea powder, shoes, towels, soap, and medicine, 
as such articles are not to be purchased in au}^ but the 
open port cities. 

We leave Yokohama reluctantl}^ for our reception by 
both English and American residents has been most 
cordial, and we have felt ver^^ much at home.. In 
traveling in Japan and Hawaii, as well, much of the 
tourist's pleasure depends upon his letters of introduc- 



I JO VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

tioii, which are absolutely necessary if he wishes to be 
taken into the social life of the small English and 
American resident population of these places. In 
Europe one may travel upon his own merits, but it is 
not wise to attempt to do so here. 

I will here explain the money system of Japan. The 
values are decimal, with the 3'en, or silver dollar, as 
the unit. 

One 3^en contains loo sen ; one sen contains lo rin. 
Gold is practically never seen. The silver pieces are : 
One 3^en, 50 sen, 20 sen, 10 sen, 5 sen. The nickel 
piece, 5 sen. Copper pieces: 2 sen, i seu, 5 rin, i rin. 
Besides others issued during feudal da3\s, representing : 
lyi rin, 8 rin (these are oblong pieces, called tempo, 
now rarel3^ seen). Paper mone3^ is issued to values of 
20 sen, 50 sen, i 3'en, 5 3'en, and various larger sums. 



Note.— Japan has a territorial area of 156,000 square miles, comprising 
30,000,000 acres of cultivated land, or an amount equal to tiiat of the State 
of Illinois. 

The United States has 3,400,000 square miles, of which 700,000,000 acres 
are susceptible to the highest state of cultivation. 

The total population of Japan in 1892 was 40,718,677 souls. The popu- 
lation of the United States at the last census taken in 1890, was 62,622,250. 

Japan is called by the Chinese "Jipango," which, being translated, 
means the original sun country, or the land of the rising sun, because to 
them the sun always seems to rise from Japan. 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 

Off for Tokyo— cit}' walls — imperial passport — Atago-3'ama— en route 
for Nikko — Cr3ptomerias — Reiheishi Kaido — Nikko — temples and tem- 
ples— photographs -great gate — "The vSleeping Cat" — Koshin — wind 
and thunder devils— sacred stable — red bridge— Inari, Goddess of Rice 
— Suminohi— Nantai-zan — Dai3'a-gawa — images of Amida— temple of 
Jokoji— God of children— to Ashio—Dainichi do -snake garden — pil- 
grims—Buddhist and Shintoist — Chuzenji — Hann3'a and Hodo— the 
Young Prince — Kegon-no-taki, 

We leave Yokohama on the morning of Angnst 25th 
by train for Tok3'o. Rates of travel here are about the 
same as those in x\merica. There is little worthy of 
note on this trip of eighteen miles, occtipying abont 
fifty mintites. On either side of the road are field after 
field of rice, with here and there patches of lotus in fnll 
bloom. Occasionally we pass a brewery, for the modern 
Japanese finds that a large majority is demanding the 
more civilized drink of beer in preference to the ancient 
and universal sake. 

Much of the rice is near perfection and some of it 
quite ready for the harvest. Rice is planted here, as 
elsewhere throughout Japan, at different periods, thus 
there is a certain amount to be ctit at variotis seasons, 
unlike our American grains, which have but one period 
for being harvested. 

171 



172 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Here are many vineyards and large trnck fields, 
yielding frnit and vegetables. The farms, generally, 
are irrigated ; in many places the water flows natnrally 
from adjacent streams, while at other points it is neces- 
sar}' to dig wells. 

In the distance we can see the cit}^ of Tok3'o, which 
has a popnlation of 600,000. The low houses of onl}^ 
one and two stories are in strong contrast to New York 
and Chicago, with their skyscrapers of fifteen and 
twent}^ stories. 

Arriving at our destination, we take jinrikishas to 
the " Imperial," a very spacious and imposing stone 
structure, and one of the best foreign hotels in the place. 
Here we have pleasant rooms. 

A portion of the cit}^ is enclosed by a high and mas- 
sive stone wall, surrounded by a moat. Within this 
enclosure is the palace of the IMikado, a modern build- 
ing of semi-foreign architecture. The imperial grounds 
are entered through open gates guarded by armed sen- 
tinels. The Imperial Hotel is also within the enclo- 
sure, as well as mau}^ shops and residences. 

Upon arriving at Tokyo, our first dut}^ after tiffin is 
to visit the American Minister, Mr. Edwin Dun. Call- 
ing at his residence, we learn that he has left the city, 
and will not return for several days. As we wish to go 
on to Nikko to-morrow, we ask his affable representa- 
tive to grant us an " imperial " passport, that is a pass- 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 



^IZ 




o 
H 

o 

> 

u 

w 

w 
to 

u 



w 
u 

en 

Q 

u 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 1 75 

port that will admit us to every part of Japan without 
any restrictions whatever. We receive this, together 
with influential letters, opening to us the doors of many 
temples and other places generall}^ difficult of access. 
Now we hold the key that will unlock the barriers 
that might otherwise obstruct our way. 

These imperial passports are not often granted, and 
only as a personal favor to S23ecial friends of the i\meri- 
can minister. We were fortunate enough to be 
pleasantly associated with Mr. Dun on the steamer 
" China," and he then promised us this passport. 

An ordinary passport is issued for touiists in general, 
extending to certain localities onl}^ Those who wish 
to go beyond the limits prescribed in this must apply 
to the minister for additional privileges. 

This afternoon we take jinrikishas and ride to the 
foot of Atago-yama, which resembles many other 
places of the kind, and has two flights of stone steps 
leading to the top. One of these, called the men's 
stairwa}^ is straight and steep, while the woman's stair- 
way is circuitous and less fatiguing. We have a fine 
view from the hilltop. In the distance we can plainly 
see Fuji-yama and the city of Tokyo. A small tem- 
ple, called Atago, is here. Atago is properly the name 
of a divinity, and the widely spread use of it — for there 
are Atago-yamas all over Japan — is attributable to the 
fact that the god especially protects towns against fire. 



176 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

He is an incarnation of the creatress Izanami and of 
her last-born child Honiusnbi, the god of fire, whose 
birth caused her death. From this point we can see 
the roof of the imperial palace, with the beautiful 
woods and gardens surrounding it. This palace has 
been the residence of his niajest}^, the JNIikado, since 
1SS9. It is said to have cost more than three millions 
of dollars. 

Descending the hill, we enter our jinrikishas, pre- 
pared for an hour or two of shopping. A shower conies 
on, but the leather covering of the jinrikishas and the 
oil cloth drawn up in front protect us thoroughly. We 
visit many of the most noted shops of the ivor}^ carver, 
wood-worker, and bronze-molder, and use the remainder 
of the day in preparing for our journey to Nikko. 

I was startled out of a sound sleep this morning by 
the blowing of whistles, and jumped up quickly to 
learn the cause. Had we been suddenly transported 
to Philadelphia, where the f^ictor}^ whistles blow at 
seven o'clock every morning ? No ; we are still in 
Tokyo, and the hour is six in the morning, when the 
steam whistles blow to notify the workmen that it is 
time to begin their daily labors. 

We take an early train for Nikko, a distance of 
ninety-one miles, or thereabout, wdiicli we expect to ac- 
couiplish in five and one-half or six hours. Our route 
is not very interesting. The farms on either side of 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 



177 



the railroad are well cultivated, the chief product being 
rice. Much truck is raised, such as sweet potatoes, 
beans, and lettuce. All these fields are irrigated from 
rivers and streams close by. The fields are not sepa- 
rated by fences or hedges, the onl}^ distinction being the 
difference in vegetation. As we approach the village of 




The \'ii.lage of Hachi-Ishi. 



Hachi-Islii we see a beautiful road, bordered on either side 
by lofty and majestic cryptomerias. This picturesque 
highway runs parallel with the railroad for fully ten 
miles. It is called Reiheishi Kaido (kaido signifies 
highwa}^. It is so called because in olden times the 
Reiheishi, or Envoy of the Mikado, used to travel along 



12 



1/8 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

it, bearing gifts from his imperial master to be offered 
at the Mausoleum of leyasu. 

At last we reach Nikko. What a scene of beauty 
and grandeur is before us ! A popular Japanese 
proverb says, " Nikko wo minai uchi wa, ' kekko ' to in 
na !" (" Do not use the word ' magnificent ' until you 
have seen Nikko.") Here nature and art combine to 
form one of the most wonderful places on the earth. 
Mountains, cascades, monumental forest trees have 
alwa3^s been here. In the seventeenth centur}^ to these 
were added the mausolea of the illustrious Shogun 
leyasu, founder of the Tokugawa dynasty, and of his 
scarcely less famous grandson, lemitsu. 

We are surrounded b\^ stately mountains, the greatest 
of which, the noted Nantai-zan, towers high above its 
neighbors. Taking jinrikishas, we proceed to the 
Nikko hotel, a mile and one-half from the station. By 
this time we are quite accustomed to the Japanese car- 
riage. Though at first one is apt to pity the poor men 
in their labor of drawing him up and down the hills, in 
this age of travel, one's nerves and feelings soon be- 
come hardened. Reaching the hotel upon the moun- 
tain side, some two thousand feet above sea level, we 
learn, to our disappointment, that it is filled to over- 
flowing. 

Nikko is the popular resort of foreigners residing in 
Yokohama, Tokyo, and the other large cities. It is said 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 1 79 

that earthquakes, so frequent in Japan, do not occur in 
this region. It is noted as the mart for such skins as 
the badger, deer, marten, wild boar, etc., from which 
slippers and other articles of European wear are 
manufactured. Various dishes, cups, tra3S, and curios 
are also found here, made of jindaiboku, a fossil wood, 
brought hither from Sendai. After many gesticula- 
tions, much talk, and a vast amount of patience, the 
latter a ver}^ necessary virtue in Japan, we are accom- 
modated with rooms, and, being tired, we bundle off to 
bed after a semi-foreign dinner, hardly realizing that at 
last we have arrived at one of the most famous resorts 
in all Japan. We rise bright and early, rested, and 
ready to "do" Nikko. 

The very thought of visiting all the innumerable 
temples and shrines of this part of Japan is enough to 
exhaust one's brain at the outset. Yes, the temples are 
inexhaustible ! We must see "some" of them ; and after 
a leisurely surve}^ of the situation we will select only 
the masterpieces of ancient Japanese art. We devote two 
da3\s to the temples, and I cannot begin to tell you what 
two days of sight-seeing in the temples means. The 
beauty of architecture and construction, the carving, 
the gold, silver, and bronze ornaments, the decorations, 
all dazzle the eyes, and the brain is wearied b}^ the mul- 
tiplicity of grandeur. Most of these temples are sur- 
rounded by the sacred cryptomerias. Pilgrims and 



l8o VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

travelers come from far and near to behold the great 
works of their ancestors, and offer prayers to the various 
gods. I have already taken many photographs within 
the sacred enclosures, and am still at work, when a man 
rushes breathlessly up to me, declaring that I am doing 
a sacrilegious thing. I instantly put my camera in its 




' Most of These Temples are Surrounded by the Cryttomerias. 

case, and am walking away, when he intimates that I 
may continue my work if I will pay for the privilege. 
As I have taken all the pictures I desire, I decline his 
offer. 

I will mention a few of the interesting sights among 
the famous temples of Nikko, The " Great Gate " is 



TOKYO AND THE THMPLKS OF NIKKO. 



l8l 



filled with elaborate carvings of various birds and ani- 
mals. The elegance of this gate is in keeping with the 
grandeur of the temples. The interior of the lyeyasu 
temple is of superb splendor, even the ceilings being 
elaborately decorated. The same ma}^ be said of the 
lyemitsu temple, the gorgeousness of whose surround- 

J 




This Group Represents the Blind, Deaf, and Dumb Monkeys. 

ings can be appreciated only by a visit in person. The 
carving on many of the doors is marvelous. 

Ascending several flights of stone steps we approach 
the mausoleum of the ancient founder. Over one of 
the gates may be seen the famous carving in wood of 
" The Sleeping Cat," the most celebrated work of Hidari 



l82 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Gingoro, also a well executed group of moukeys, called 
Kosbiu. This group represeuts a bliud mouke}^, a deaf 
mouke}^, and a dumb monkey, and is S3nnbolic of the 
Japanese principle, never to see, hear, or speak evil of 




Wind Devil. 



any one. Throughout Japan 3^ou will ever^^where see 
slabs of stone and wood with this group of monkeys in 
relief upon them. 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. I S3 

Upon either side of the gateway are wooden images 
of the '^ Wind Devil," which is snpposed to rule the 
winds, and the " Thunder Devil," who controls the 
storms. 

These images, called Mio, are placed here to guard 
the sacred temple. We visit also the stable in which is 
the sacred white pou}^, kept for the use of the god. The 
workmanship of this bronze portal is of wonderful 
beauty. Here we have a fine concentrated view of this 
whole group of temples, and the splendor of this con- 
secrated spot. 

A short walk from the temple brings us to the Red 
Bridge, or Ali Hashi, which is worthy of note. It spans 
the Dai3^a gawa, and ma}^ be viewed from another and 
public bridge, a few feet lower down the stream. From 
this last we look upon the scene before us in wonder 
and admiration. 

In the background are loft}^ mountains clad in verdure, 
towering thousands of feet heavenward, while at their 
base the beautiful waters of the Dai3'a gawa flow in 
rapid and tempestuous course. In the foreground is 
the Mi Hashi, the sacred bridge, formerh' closed to all 
persons but the Shogun, excepting twice a 3'ear, when 
it was opened to pilgrims. It stands upon a spot 
where, according to legend, the saint Shodo Shonin 
crossed the stream on a hol}^ mission. It is about 
eighty-four feet long and eighteen feet wide, and 



1S4 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

was built A. D. 1638. Its gates are closed and securely 
locked. 

We take many beautiful trips over the moun- 
tains and into tlie neighboring villages, and are 




Thunder Devil. 



never wear}^ of this unlimited pleasure-ground of the 
tourist. 

We take over and over again the picturesque ride to 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 185 

Haclii Islii. In this ride we pass a little temple stand- 
ing aside from the road, and dedicated to Inari, the god- 
dess of rice. The figure of a fox, which is always 
found in the temples of Inari, is not, as some suppose, 
a tribute to the fear inspired by that wily beast. Inari 
is the fox deity. 

In this temple, screened from public view, are mau}^' 
large and small images of the sexual organ of man, 
some weighing about three hundred pounds. I learn 
that these images, formerly worshiped by the natives, 
were removed from their temple some ten years ago by 
an edict of the government. 

A heavy rain, a frequent occurrence in these moun- 
tains, keeps us prisoners in the hotel. This " rain 
rest " is a welcome event to the tourist, giving him not 
onl\^ the needed repose for body and brain, but also time 
for letter-writing and repairs. 

To-day is chilly and unpleasant, as neither stoves nor 
furuaces are known in Japan, outside the large cities, 
and travelers, when cold, must resort to extra clothing. 
There is, it is true, a wooden box filled with ashes, 
upon which red-hot charcoal is laid. These fires are 
called Hibashi or Suminohi, meaning charcoal fire. 
They are common throughout Japan, being the only 
means of affording heat to the houshold. During the 
cold weather a native will frequently wear four or five 
kimonos at one time. 



1 86 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

The rainy days are also useful in planning trips. 
We are attentively studying our maps with reference 
to a journe}^ to the interior of this countr}^ 

After a good rest we start out with renewed strength 
for a little more sightseeing. The day being fair, our 
guide lias forestalled all discussions as to plans b}^ se- 




The Great Gate. 



curing jinrikishas for a little tour to some neigliboring 
places. 

A half-hour's ride brings us to a little tea house, 
where we stop for rest and refreshments, sitting on the 
floor, as is the custom. The great Nantai-zan (zan, 
mountain) rising to a height of eight thousand one 



TOKVO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. iS; 

liuudred and fifty feet, is on our riglit, some distance 
away. What a gloriously beautiful mountain ! The 
clouds clustering about its lofty peaks partly hide them 
from view. The purple and blue tints that color its 
o;iant form, with the more delicate shades of oreen at 
its base, render it a stud}^ for the palette of the skilful 
artist. On our left is the Nikko range, also clothed 
in varied hues. At our feet is the Gamman-ga-fuchi, 
one of many pools that may be seen in the Daiya gawa. 
How the waters seethe and boil, washing continually 
the huge boulders that line the banks on either side. 
As we descend these banks we are obliged to use great 
care lest we slip on the wet moss-covered rocks and be 
carried awa}^ b}^ the rushing torrent, now swollen b}' 
heavy rains. 

There are many idols and images with historic records 
in the various niches of the rocks. On the opposite 
bank a hundred small figures placed in a row are called 
the " Images of Amida." 

As we look at them we feel that ancestr}^ is scanning 
ns, and a hundred voices greeting ns Avitli the words, 
*'0-hayo," as we pass b3\ Once more we are in our 
jinrikishas, still following the road that skirts the 
pretty Daiya gawa. This stream has its source in 
Lake Chuzenji, upon the Nantai-zan. 

Now we turn our faces homeward, stopping, how- 
ever, at the Temple of Jokoji, which is near the hotel. 



i88 



VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



Passing tlirougli a gate of exquisite beauty, we enter 
the sacred grounds, which seem to have been used as a 
cemetery, for hundreds of tombstones are erected here ; 
they are of every shape, and present a strange appear- 
ance. Many stone lanterns stand within the enclosure, 
memorials of priests and other celebrities who once 




Interior of Iyemitsu Temple, 



lived on the earth, but have now taken their places in 
the Celestial world. A stone image, fully six feet high, 
attracts our attention. This is Koyasu-Jizo, the god of 
children. His image is covered with pieces of red and 
white linen of all sizes. It is said that motliers of 
newly-born babes bring these offerings and tie them on 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 



189 



the idol, that he may care for their children and pro- 
tect them from sickness all their lives. Or, if children 
are sick, a strip of cloth is snspended from the image 
by the mother, with prayers that they may be healed. 




KOYASU-JiZO, THE GOD OF CHILDREN. 

To-day we go to Lake Chuzenji. Breakfast is over, 
and at 8.30 onr gnide is at the door with jinrikishas 
and three men to each waQ^on. That means that the 



190 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

journey is to be a hard one. The sky is clear and the 
air cool, and with fleet-footed men we go at a good pace. 
Our road is along the bank of the Dai3'a gawa, and is 
the highway between Nikko and Ashio. After riding 
a short distance we reach the Dainechi-do, which means 
the temple of the sun goddess. Here we alight and 
enter a pretty garden, taking some refreshment at the 
tea house within. This garden is well worth a visit, not 
only the perfect t}' pe of a beautiful Japanese garden, but 
also on account of a large spring which oozes out of the 
earth and foruis a lake. The water is pure and cool, 
coining directly from the mountain beyond. In the cen- 
tre of the spring a small stone image is supported by 
stone slabs. This is Ugagin, or the Snake Garden. 

Yesterday we saw the Prince, son of the Alikado and 
heir to the throne of Japan, resting in this garden, sur- 
rounded by a staff of officers. He is a lad of seventeen, 
rather prepossessing in appearance. We learn that he 
is making a minute tour of his native country. At 
many places along the route we see evidences of his 
visits in extra decorations and arches of green. 

As we continue, we find the road rough and ston3\ 
Our frail carriages are pitched to and fro, and it is a 
mystery how we are carried for miles along such paths 
without a breakdown. On the way we see caravans of 
horses, lieavil}^ laden with all kinds of merchandise, and 
led by a man or woman, it is hard to tell which ; the 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 



191 



dress is precisely tlie same, only the women often wear 
some kind of white linen head-gear. We pass many 
women and small girls, carrying great wicker baskets 
filled with green grass. Some of them are so small 
that they bend almost donble beneath their heavy 
burdens. 




As wi': C'ontinup: we Find the Road Roihjh and Stony. 

At varions times we see groups of four or five women 
dressed in peculiar costumes. These are pilgrims on 
the way to the temples in and about Nikko. These 
devotees will walk miles at certain times in the year, to 
worship at some particular shrine of Shinto, or temple 
of Buddha. Although the Shinto religion is indigenous 



192 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

to Japan, there are here many followers of Bnddha. It 
is not nncoramon for one to be born a Shintoist, and die 
a Bnddhist. 

Here conies a cnrions looking man. He carries a 
tray npon his head, containing cakes and pies, and calls 
ont his wares in a lond voice as he goes along. 




Now THE Scenery Becomes Still More Beautiful. 

Onr little hnman horses rnn briskly, crying ont : 
" Hi ! Hi ! Hi !" to any carts or persons that obstrnct 
the way, and we, interested in onr experiences, heed 
little the bnmps and joltings that now and then fall to 
onr lot. 

We now come to a fork in the road, called Fntamiya. 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 1 93 

The main road leads to i\sliio, while the path to the 
right goes to Chuzenji, and this latter one we take. 
Our way is still bounded b}^ the stream whose pure 
waters come from Lake Chuzenji. Now the scenery 
becomes still more beautiful, woods and mountains 
completely surrounding us, while the picturesque 
stream, in its tempestuous flow, beats against the 
thousands of boulders of all sizes that lie in its path, at 
times throwing its spray high in the air. Thus w'e 
have a beautiful accompaniment to our journey. 

The path grows narrower as we penetrate the caiion, 
sometimes barely allowing a passage for the jinrikishas. 
On one side is the stream, ten or fifteen feet below us, 
on the other towers the mountain, several hundred feet 
above us, a solid wall of granite. Occasionally a small 
bridle stream winds its way down the mountain side. 
We are gradually ascending, step by step. As Lake 
Chuzenji lies at an altitude of four thousand three 
hundred and seventy-five feet, and Nikko is two thou- 
sand feet above sea level, we must climb two thousand 
three hundred and seventy-five feet before we can look 
upon this bod}^ of water. 

At last we reach the hamlet of Uma-gaeshi, meaning 
literally '' horse-send-back." Our guide tells me that 
formerly ascent to the lake was made on horseback, and 
this hamlet takes its name from the fact that at this 
point the horses were sent back. Here we stop at 
13 



194 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

one of the many tea houses, where we have some 
good hot tea, and finish off with a bottle of '' Japanese " 
brewed beer. Our faithful men also enjoy their rest, 
and rice and tea. 

From this point the ascent is steep and difficult. My 
guide tells me that men are rarely or never carried up 
the mountain from this point ; that only the ladies 
remain in the jinrikishas. At this I take off my coat 
and vest, and rolling up my sleeves and trousers, pre- 
pare, with a stout staff, to climb by steep and short cuts, 
through the thick brush and undergrowth, while the 
ladies sit in the jinrikishas, and are pushed and hauled 
up b\^ five men to each wagon. The path is wet, mudd}^ 
and unpleasant, barely wide enough to walk, and at 
times so slippery that I seat m^^self unexpectedl3Mn its 
uninviting arms, much to the detriment of my trousers 
and appearance generall}^ However, I comfort m^'self 
with the thought that the road to all good things is a 
hard one, and push on and on, sure of being amply 
rewarded in the end. By this time, what with the heat 
of the da}^ and my great exertions, I am perspiring 
profusel3^ 

While resting at the hamlet, we saw several Japanese 
ladies descending from the lake by means of the 3^ama 
kago, a small chair suspended from a pole carried by 
two coolies. The term yama kago means literally 
" mountain chair." 



TOKYO AND THE TEMPLES OF NIKKO. 



195 



As we climb, we can see the road winding away below 
us. Now we rest at tlie Missawa tea house. From this 
point the scene is wilder and more picturesque. Again 
we plunge into the dense undergrowth of the woods, 
following a narrow path. 

Another opening, where there are several tea houses. 




We Saw Several Japanese Ladies Descending from the Lake by 
Means of the Yam a Kago. 

What a magnificent view ! Far down in the canon can 
be seen scattered tea houses, looking like children's 
toys, while before us rise lofty summits, clothed in 
green. At some distance on the left, a beautiful water- 
fall may be seen rushing forth from a deep crevice in 



196 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

the mountain, full seventy feet in height. This fall is 
named "Hannya," while on the right, not far from its 
companion, is a smaller stream, falling to a great 
depth below. This cascade is called '' Hodo." 

We rest a half-hour, and take some refreshment, then 
continue the ascent. This part is rougher and more 
arduous than any previous experience. At last we are 
rewarded by seeing Chuzenji Mountain at our feet, for 
we have really reached the summit. Joining the rest 
of the party, we ride a short distance to the lake. A 
number of cottages are situated upon its shore, for this 
is a summer resort for many English and American 
families. 

We go to the best Japanese inn for tiffin. This inn 
is named Komeva, meaning '' rice house." Engaging 
a room, our guide requests the landlord to furnish us 
with a table and chairs. Soon the luncheon is on the 
table. Kniv^es, forks, sj^oons, and dishes are provided, 
and we eat tiffin in American style, our guide, as usual, 
preferring his chopsticks in an adjoining room. 

After tiffin, we view the lake and enjoy the scene be- 
fore us, then visit some noted shrines and temples in 
the neighborhood. On our way we observe clean sand 
strewed along the paths and green arches erected here 
and there, and upon asking the reason of this, are in- 
formed that the 3^oung prince visited the place yester- 
day, and this is the custom whenever he appears. 



TOKYO AND The THMPLES OF NIKKO. 



197 



We walk to the temple of Futare-san (name of God), 
also to a number of other interesting spots, then return- 
ing to the jinrikishas ride to the Kegon-no-taki water- 
fall. This is a magnificent spectacle. The great vol- 
ume of water dashes wildly over a lofty precipice into 
an enormous basin, walled in with rocks two hundred and 




Laki: CfiuzENU. 

fifty feet below. Descending the mountain side, we 
stand upon a projecting rock, from which we have a 
closer view of the falls and realize its extent and the 
force with which it precipitates itself into the whirl- 
pool. 

Once more in the jinrikishas we begin our homeward 



198 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

journey, the descent in many places being so steep 
that we are compelled to get out and walk. 

The beauty of the scenes around us cannot be de- 
scribed by pen or pencil ! Only he who has seen them 
can feel the thrill here experienced in the preseuce of 
some of the most sublime and wonderful of nature's 
handiworks. 

We reach the hotel in time for a good hot dinner, to 
which we do ample justice. 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 

A journey to the interior — Outfit — At the vStation — Country people — 
Omiya — Second-class car — Silk-growing district — Annaka — Asama- 
yama — Iwafune-san — ]\Ii3'ozi-san — Yokogawa — Usui Pass — Tunnels — 
Karuisawa — Making a bed — A bath — Iwamurata — Chikunia-gawa — Na- 
gano Zenkoji — Inarimura-Shimohigano — Bowing- Tanbajegma — 
Saigawa — Japanese artists — A feast — Silk-weaving mill — Presents — 
Night watchmen. 

To-day, Sunday, we make final preparations for a 
tour tlirough Central Japan, wliicli will last several 
weeks. Maps and guide-books have been sttidied and 
the rotite careftilly planned. We intend going b}' rail 
from Nikko to Onriya, Mae-bashi, Karui-sawa, Nagano, 
thence to Naoetsu, the terminus of the railroad. By 
jinrikisha and on foot we proceed to Niigata, and, if 
wind and weather are favorable, we will visit the 
island of Sado, which can be reached by a small 
steamer from the mainland in abotit five hours. This 
island is noted for its gold and silver mines. 

From Niigata, still by jinrikisha and on foot, over 
the mountain passes, we will go to Sendai, where we 
again take the railroad to Morioka and Aomori, then 
return to Nikko. 

My guide asstires me that this trip will embrace 
beautiful scenery, a strange country, and costumes 

199 



200 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

and customs quite out of the ordinary line of foreign 
travel. M}^ object in this journey is to go far away 
from the beaten tracks, and see how the real Japanese 
live at home, untainted and unaffected by the progress 
of civilization. I learn that recent floods have extended 
over this section of the country, also that disease has 
visited some of these districts — facts which may inter- 
fere to some extent with my plans, but we shall en- 
deavor to carry them out as faithfully as possible. 

Our outfit would bring a smile to the face of the 
modern traveler, including, as it does, kimonos, shoes, 
and various articles of clothing, medicine chest, candles, 
tobacco, flea powder, cameras, and painting materials, 
as well as provisions, cooking utensils, dishes, and 
knives and forks, all of which are necessary on leaving 
the larger cities. 

The day of starting is a fine one. The sun shines 
down in all his glor}^, and it is a superb morning, even 
for " The Land of the Rising Sun." Up at 5.30, and 
warmly dressed, after breakfast I find the guide await- 
ing me with smiling face and his morning greeting, 
" O-hayo." The jinrikishas are ready, and soon we 
are on our way to the village of Hachi-Ishi, commonly 
known as Nikko. Arriving at the station, we find a 
number of natives, with here and there a foreigner, 
awaiting the opening of the gates that admit one to 
the train. This crowd of travelers is very interesting 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 20I 

to me, while I seem to be just as curious au object to 
tliem. The gates opeu aud the cars are filled with the 
motley tliroug. The bell rings, the whistle blows, and 
at 7.45 we are off for the heart of Japan. As we steam 
southward to Ut-so-no-miya we again pass the beautiful 
avenue of cryptomerias. 

Mau}^ odd sights meet our e3'es as we ride through 
the countr}^ Now and then a horse laden with bags, 
baskets, and odds and ends, alwa^'s led b}- a man or 
woman, moves along the road. The clothing worn by 
these people is loose and open : a straw hat, a pair of san- 
dals, and in many cases a piece of matting about three 
feet square, tied loosel}^ over the shoulders to protect 
them from the rain or excessive heat of the sun. 

I observe gates at many points where the railway 
intersects the road. These gates are almost invariably 
managed by 3^oung Japanese girls. On the road to 
Omiya we cross the Tone-gawa, by a strong, well-con- 
structed bridge. Having forty minutes at Onii3^a, while 
waiting to make connection, I stroll through the place, 
but see nothing of interest but the great Fuji-yama in 
the distance, extending its loft}^ head far into the 
clouds. How noble and grand it looks ! 

On leaving the station we can plainl}^ see Fuji yama 
on our left and the Nikko range on our right, having 
described a somewhat circuitous path in our journey 
thus far. Our train goes speeding (!) on at the rate of 



202 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

fifteen miles an lionr. The cars in Japan do not ap- 
pear with snch enconraging legends as those in Amer- 
ica, such as " The Flyer," " Lightning Express," 
" Wild Cat," and similar high-sounding titles. We 
are in a second-class car. This is not only a cheaper 
mode of travel, but when there are no ladies in the 
part}^ the comfort is almost equal to that of first-class 
compartments. In our section are several Japanese, 
among them a young girl of about twenty years, evi- 
dently alone. Next to her sits an old man, dressed in 
a kimono, a felt hat and wooden shoes. The day being 
hot, the man cools himself by lifting his kimono up to 
his waist and fanning his bare legs with it, regardless 
of a lady's presence or ourselves. 

The houses we pass are built of wood, with here and 
there one of stone. The roofs are made of shingles, 
heavy tiles or thatch. As far as Isobe the fields abound 
in silk mulberry and rice. I learn that the country 
between Omiya and Isobe is the great silk-producing 
district. The valued food of the silk worm is obtained 
by planting a small branch from the parent mulberry 
tree, and this, when rooted and grown into full leafage, 
is cut or plucked from the ground and placed in a large 
basket for the worms to feed upon, or the leaves are 
stripped from the branches and put in the basket. In 
this section are large factories, where the silk is spun 
from the cocoons. 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 



203 



It is interesting to watch the men, women, and chil- 
dren cutting and gathering in the rice. A sickle is 
used for cutting the rice straw, a slow and tedious oper- 
ation. A cluster of rice is held in the hand, and thus 
cut, the bunch being carefully laid down, to be gathered 
by the following laborer. For threshing, a stand is 




It is llNTEKESiING TO WaTCH THE MEN, WOMEN, AND CHILDREN CUTTING 

THE Rice 



used, with a steel blade, three inches long and six wide, 
with teeth on one edge. A cloth is placed on the ground 
tinder the blade to catch the falling rice, as a handful 
of the rice straw is drawn through the steel teeth. 
The rice is hulled in an odd and ancient manner. A 



204 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

certain quantity is put in a stone basin, and a heavy 
weight, raised by a lever, is let fall into the basin. The 
process is slow, but as time is no object in Japan, these 
primitive ways have no drawbacks. 

The costumes of the people in these districts are odd 
and various. Many coolies walk along the roads in 




The Rice is Hulled in an Odd and Ancient Manner. 

their large straw hats and coats. The country peasant 
sits b}^ the roadside with his load of merchandise, resting 
and smoking his small pipe. 

We have a fine view from the car window at An-naka 
station. Here we behold mountains on all sides. The 
lofty and picturesque x\sama-yama rises to a height of 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 



205 




en 

< 

O 

U 

P 

< 
■s: 

< 



'SI 

< 



W 
X 
h 

o 
< 
til 



m 
U 

Ij 

O 

o 
u 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 



207 



eight thousand five hundred feet above the sea. Here, 
too, is Iwa-fune-san (Iwa, rock, fune, boat, and san, 
mountain), named from the shape of its peaks, which 
are like a huge boat, from stem to stern. In the dis- 
tance, on our right is Ikao mountain, not least in this 
region, where all is interesting and beautiful. Nearer 




MiYOGI-SAN WITH POINTED CLIFFS GREAT ArcHES AND SeEMING CaSTLES. 

may be seen Miyogi-san, or '' rocky mountain," rugged 
and picturesque, with pointed cliffs, great arches, and 
seeming castles that inspire one with a longing for the 
artist's brush and the poet's pen to carry these wonder- 
ful scenes to all the countries in the world. 

At Yokogawa we stop about twenty minutes, when I 



208 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

leave the car to stretch my cramped limbs and bathe my 
face and hands at a neighboring fountain. I am imme- 
diately surrounded by a dozen children, who are much 
amused at my strange appearance. I say to them, 
" Komban-wa " (Good evening), which is received by a 
burst of laughter. 

Our train consists of eight passenger coaches and 
two very powerful locomotives, one forward, and one at 
the rear end of the train, for we are to be pushed up an 
incline of one foot to fifteen, over the Usui Pass, from 
Yokogawa to Karuisawa station. In this short ride we 
pass through twenty-six tunnels, whose total length is 
two and three-quarters miles, the longest one extending 
one thousand seven hundred and seventy-two feet. 

For safety the engines run upon a sort of cogged 
chain, placed between the rails; for if a brake should 
slip, or an accident happen, we would all be hurled to 
the bottom of the incline. 

Some of the tunnels are quite short. They are all 
built of brick or stone. We pass through one after 
another until we reach Karuisawa at last, at an eleva- 
tion of four thousand feet. Here we spend the night. 
The air is cool and pleasant, and after a short walk we 
arrive at a real Japanese country inn. This is ni}^ first 
experience of " board and lodgings." I engage a room 
adjoining my own for my guide, who at once begins to 
prepare for supper, unpacking knives, forks, and dishes. 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 



209 



I make out finely with canned meats and some pre- 
serves, added to the customary rice and tea, and enjoy 
a good meal with a ravenous appetite. 

As the evening advances, and I have finished 
writing up my journal and studying the guide-book, the 
guide calls a Neisan, and directs her to make my bed. 




A Japanese Bed. 

You must know that away from the cities, both in inns 
and private houses, the rooms are wholly unfurnished. 
Only in places frequented by foreigners are tables, 
chairs, or stools to be found. The bed is made in this 
fashion: First of all, flea powder is sprinkled abund- 
antly over the straw mat which covers the floor. Upon 
14 



2IO VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

this a four-incli mattress is laid ; sheets are spread over 
the mattress and two or three down qnilts, and when 
the mosqnito netting is hnng over it and an oil-lighted 
paper lantern placed beside it, you have the genuine 
Japanese bed. ]\Iy first experience of this floor: bed is 
not satisfactory. I have a constant fear of rats, mice, 
centipedes, roaches, and other vermin. But I sleep the 
sleep of the fatigued, and do not waken until six o'clock 
in the morning. 

I tell the guide that I wish to take a bath, not in the 
general tub, with other men and women, but by my- 
self In a few minutes I am informed that the bath is 
ready. Where is it ? What is it ? A large ttib is 
placed on the narrow porch in front of my room, ex- 
posed to all the rooms that face this part of the inn. 
It is filled with hot water, and I am expected to undress 
and wash here 1 Thinking it best to adapt myself to 
this primitive ctistom, I finally tmdress and begin my 
bath, concealing myself as best I can behind a towel. 
It is a very embarrassing position. However, I am 
clean and refreshed by my trying bath, and I feel that 
I have the best of it. The jolly landlady has given me 
the best room in the house. The cost of this room over- 
night, with charcoal fire, lamp, and bath, is one yen, or 
fifty cents. I charm the landlady and Neisan, who 
surround me, by conjurer's tricks and similar entertain- 
ments for an hour, then with an " Arrigata " (thank you) 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 211 

and " Sayonara " (good-bye), we pick up our traps and 
are off by train for Nagano. 

This part of the journey is very interesting. A 
descent of nearly four thousand feet causes the little 
train to move more rapidly than usual, and the road is 
considered the most picturesque in Japan. There are 
deep gullies in the mountain sides, down which flow 
streams of water to the rivers below. On either side 
of the railroad the golden harvest of the rice field is 
ready for the reaper. Only a short distance away the 
Asama-yama rises in all its glory. The day is clear, 
and the mountains, as they come into view one after 
the other, present a magnificent panorama to my enrap- 
tured gaze. 

From Oiwake, where the Nakesendo, or old mountain 
road, is left behind, and thence to Komoro, we have the 
plain of Iwamurata, with Yatsu-ga-taki and Asama-yama 
in the background. 

With what interest I gaze upon this scene, and how 
I long to rest here and paint these gorgeous pictures ! 
But I dare not pause, for the journey before us will not 
admit of delay here, so I can only store them awa}^ as 
mental pictures that will brighten many a future day. 

I shall never forget the flood of light cast by the sun 
upon these mountains and the valley below, the dark 
green of the pines contrasting with the lime and lava 
on the mountain side. 



212 VACATION PAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

From Komoro to Neda the road runs through the 
valley of Chiku-ma-gawa, whose southern bank con- 
sists of a series of bold bluffs. 

We have a full view of the Shinshi-Hida, massive 
and grand, and after crossing the Chikuma-gawa and 
the Saigawa we arrive safely at Nagano, and take jinrik- 
ishas to the Fuji-ya Hotel, called in Japan Taikioku- 
kwan. My guide engages for me the only foreign or 
American room in the place. I find it clean and pleas- 
ant, with a fine view of the mountains and plains. It 
contains an iron bed, some chairs, and a table, after the 
American fashion. This room is looked upon by the 
natives as a queer place, but one possessing all the 
comforts of an American home. 

After tiffin I walk about the town with my guide, 
and am much embarrassed by the stares of those whom 
wx meet, some of the people even standing still to 
watch us pass. At times a dozen or more of them are 
at our backs, laughing at \\\y speech and dress. 

If any one thinks, sitting in his easy-chair at home, 
that the Japanese are familiar with our ways and cos- 
tumes, let him follow in my footsteps and he will soon 
lose this impression. 

We visit the temple of Zenkoji, one of the most 
celebrated in the whole empire. It is dedicated to 
Amida and his two followers, Kwannon and Daiseishi, 
a group of whose images is here enshrined. 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 213 

'^ This sacred group is said to have been made by 
Shaka Muni out of gold found on Mount Shunii, the 
centre of the universe. After various vicissitudes in 
China and Corea it was brought to Japan in 552 A. D. 
as a present from the King of Corea to the Mikado on 
the introduction of Buddhism into Japan. All the 
efforts of the Japanese enemies of Buddhism to make 
away with the image were in vain. Thrown into 
rivers, hacked at, burned, it survived all, and finally 
found a resting-place at Zenkoji or Nagano in 602 

A. D." 

The main temple, erected in 1701 A. d., is a building 
of two stories, one hundred and ninety-eight feet in 
depth, and one hundred and eight feet in breadth, with 
a huge gabled roof, wliicli is supported b}^ one hundred 
and thirty-six pillars, and contains, it is said, sixty- 
nine thousand three hundred and eighty-four rafters, 
the same number as the written characters contained in 
the Chinese version of the Buddhist Scriptures. A 
space of eighty-eight mats, one thousand six hundred 
square feet, is set apart for the worshipers, mau}^ of 
wliom we see upon their knees, praying to the various 
gods. There are many old relics in the recesses, also 
some mementoes of the recent Chinese Japanese war, 
such as swords, spears, guns, and armor plate. The 
images in every available spot, and the silent devotees 
absorbed in prayer, render the scene solemn and inipres- 



214 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

sive. We are followed by a large crowd, as we inspect 
the different featnres of tliis old temple. When we are 
outside, I perceive some workmen repairing the roof. 
The shingles used are strips of wood fifteen inches long 




Manv Pilgrims are Here in Their Odd Costumes. 

and four inches wide. Upon each strip is painted the 
name of a person who contributes to the maintenance 
of the temple. The names of all subscribers, whether 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 215 

the contribution be large or small, are thus painted 
upon single shingles, which are used in repairing the 
roof, in this manner perpetuating the generosity of the 
donor. Many pilgrims are here in their odd costumes, 
and are seen at every village and highway along the 
route, generally ringing a bell, or striking a gong, or 
obtaining a meagre living by begging from door to 
door. 

One wonders at first why so many shrines and 
temples are seen throughout Japan, but when he learns 
that to every city, town, and village belongs at least one 
shrine and one temple, his wonder ceases. I am also 
informed that every Japanese home contains a Buddlia 
and a Shinto god. The Shinto gods are the idols of 
their every-day life, but the Buddha is the God to whom 
the spirit in man takes its flight when death comes. 
The Shinto shrine is distinguished from the Buddha 
temple by always having a torii placed before it. 

It is the fashion, in the interior of Japan, for the 
women to blacken their teeth — an ugly and unbecoming 
custom. 

I experience much comfort in my American room, 
although there can be no comparison between it and 
the mode of living it is supposed to represent. To-day 
I gain much information in regard to the production 
and weaving of silk, and enjoy the society of several 
very interesting Japanese gentlemen. 



:>l6 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN, 

Last evening my gnide received a call from a gentle- 
man cousin and a pretty young niece, who gave us both 
a warm invitation to visit their home in a village some 
distance away. This village is also the birthplace of 
my guide. This is an opportunity for which I have 
longed. The people are educated countr}^ people, in 




We Pass Groups of Children Who Stare at IMe. 

comfortable circumstances. When they bade us fare- 
well, they presented me with a handsome box of bon- 
bons, exquisitely wrapped, with the daintiness for 
which this nation is so celebrated. I am informed that 
this custom of presenting gifts to strangers is quite 
common. 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 



217 



To-da}/, therefore, our destination is the village of 
Inarimura-Shimohigano, four miles from Nagano. At 
nine o'clock our jinrikishas are ready, and shortly after 
we are being carried swiftly through the cit3^ My 
foreign appearance attracts crowds, who gaze curiousl}^ 
after us until we are out of sight. 




A Pack-horse Goes by Led by a Native with Straw Sandals and Hatless. 

Our course is through the valley of Tanbajegma, 
between ranges of beautiful mountains. We pass 
groups of children, who stare at me as though I were 
some wild animal. 

Odd and interesting sights meet my eyes. The 
pack-horse goes by, led by a native with straw sandals, 



2lS VACATION DAYvS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

liatless and lightly clad. Curious and primitive is the 
merchandise thus carried, and the horse with his long 
forelock is no less striking. He, too, wears straw 
sandals, for the horses in Japan are never shod with 
iron shoes. 

We cross the wooden bridge which spans the Saigawa. 
Only a few weeks since there was a great freshet here, 
sweeping away many of the houses, and injuring the 
crops. Now our way is through rice-fields ; then in a 
twinkling we are surrounded by fields of the white 
mulberry, the food of the silk-worm. Our little wagons 
stand well this turning and twisting through field and 
lane, and the hard usage of the rough roads. Now and 
then we stop and pa}^ toll; I wonder why, unless it is 
for the privilege of seeing the many curious sights 
which the route offers. At the end of our journey we 
are received b}^ our host in the front porch of his house. 
After the customary ceremony of bowing, we are given 
leather cushions to sit upon. 

One day I asked my guide the meaning of the re- 
peated bows with which friends and relatives alwa^'s 
gieet each other. He replied that the first bow 
signifies that they wish each other well; the second 
that they have heard that the friend just met was 
in town ; and the third that thev are delis^hted to 
find this true, as they wished greatly to see him ; 
the final bow is simply one of courtesy. This is 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 219 

the invariable ceremony with all classes, high and 
low, rich and poor. 

Onr hospitable host at once, as is the cnstoni, places 
before us a pot of tea, and little cups. Then we talk of 
many things, the guide acting as interpreter. After a 
pleasant visit, we proceed to the house of another 
friend, a Mr. Ikebana, an artist in the arrangement of 
flowers in vases. The specimens of his skill in view 
evince a high order of taste, and I feel confident that 
many a drawing-room in Philadelphia would receive an 
acquisition to be proud of in one of these beautifully 
arranged vases. 

We then visited Mr. Rankey Tanaka, noted as one 
of the most brilliant and successful artists in this 
province. Upon his walls are many panels painted by 
himself, which seem to me very high t^^pes of Japanese 
art. The ideas of artists and poets in Japan are quite 
different from those of talented men in Europe and 
America. While the latter are only too anxious to 
advertise and sell their productions, the Japanese 
masters will paint as few as possible — in fact, only as 
many as are necessary for a livelihood ; for, the}^ say, 
if they should flood the market with their works they 
would become common and unattractive. 

One b}^ one friends drop in, until eight gentlemen are 
seated upon cushions on the floor of a room facing a 
pretty Japanese garden. In the centre of our circle is a 



220 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. ^ 

small table, about six inches liigli, filled with such deli- 
cacies as rice, sake, raw eggs, soup, fish, and pickles. 
This is considered a Japanese feast. Our party repre- 
sents the general mercantile and literary element of 
the neighborhood, consisting of two artists, the village 
attorney, a capitalist, a gentleman deeply interested 
in silk culture and manufacture, and several farmers, 
beside the guide and m^^self. I notice at least thirt}^ 
little heads peeping through the bushes that surround 
the garden, and ask the guide if there is a school in the 
vicinity. He answers in the negative, apparently sur- 
prised at my question. We have our tiffin, and chat for 
about two hours, in which time I have a good opportunity 
to observe their social manners. My guide is a great 
favorite, and entertains the party with his jokes and re- 
marks on the odd manners and customs of the Ameri- 
cans. In response to their interest I tell them how 
Americans give a banquet, and how, instead of bowing 
and bowing, we extend the hand and shake it with a 
firm grip ; and then I illustrate this by shaking hands 
with every one of them in true American fashion, 
squeezing their hands with much force. They yell out, 
and declare that I am a very powerful man, and after 
that I can see that some of them are rather timid about 
approaching me too closely. Before leaving I am laden 
with presents, according to the custom of the country. 
I receive beautiful samples of raw silk, delicately 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 221 

wrapped, with something written in Japanese on the 
outside ; fresh eggs in a basket of plaited straw, a bot- 
tle of sake and a quantity of fruit. As I stand there 
with my arms full, truly, I feel like a beggar. As the 
finishing stroke, the artist steps forward, and hands me 
two beautifully-executed paintings, each about five feet 
long and two and one-half feet wide. He has painted 
upon the margin of one of them an original poem in 
honor of the occasion, and adorned it with a stamp bear- 
ing his crest, and his private and official signatures. 
Who can exceed in kindness and hospitality the people 
of this country ? 

Instead of saying " Sayonara " (good-bye), these gen- 
tlemen accompany us on our walk to the silk factory, 
Kawanakagimas, in the village of Otsuka, about a mile 
away. I appreciate their kindness. 

On the way we pass the village graveyard ; also, a 
shrine and a temple. We are received at the factory 
by the manager, who freely answers all my questions 
as to the growing and spinning of silk. We then walk 
through the spinning-room, a room fully one hundred 
feet long, in which sit about a hundred young Japanese 
girls, from thirteen to eighteen years of age, winding 
by machinery the silk from the cocoons upon spindles 
or spools. 

After observing this process for some time, we all 
assemble in the front office, and form a circle, sitting 



2 22 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

upon the floor. In the centre is a huge pot of choice 
tea, from which we fill our cups. We sit here for half 
an hour, then prepare to take our departure. I shake 
hands with each in turn, saying ''Good-bye," which 
thc}^ repeat, with broad smiles and great satisfaction. 
As we walk about the village, I attract unusual atten- 




Odd and Interesting Sights Meet IVIv Eves. 

tion, and am followed b}' many of the natives. I ask the 
guide wdiy I am such a curiosity, and he assures me that 
an American has never been seen in this village before. 
We return to our jinrikishas, and are soon speeding 
homeward. The jinrikisha men have a curious way of 
notifying one another of the dangerous holes or rocks 



IN THE HEART OF JAPAN. 2 23 

in the road. The leader calls out " E-o ! E-o !" This is 
repeated in turn by those following until the last man 
utters the strange cry. 

The night-watchman in Japan, more especially in the 
villages and small towns, follows an ancient custom of 
striking two sticks, called Hioshigi, or " tune-blocks," 
together as he makes his rounds. You can hear the 
clicking noise all through the night. The hour is also 
sounded thus : If it is three o'clock, the sticks are 
struck quickly three times ; if half past three, then, 
after a second, they are struck once for the half-hour. 
The sticks are made of hard wood, and the name of the 
hotel or inn is carved upon them. This is an excellent 
custom^ and one can be sure of the time-pieces, which 
is not always the case with those of the American 
watch-watch, or the electric clocks. 

Note. — From the egg of the silk-worm the worm is hatched, and the 
cocoon made within forty days in the spring season. The same process 
in summer requires twenty days, while in the autumn it requires 
twenty-two or twenty-three days. Thus three crops a year may be 
secured. 

The prices paid to the girls in the factory are as follows : Experienced 
hands, seven yen a month (equivalent to three and one-half dollars, 
United States currency). Inexperienced hands, one yen a month. 

Food of rice is furnished in both cases. The time of labor is fourteen 
hours a day. 

The average city wages of carpenters, working eight hours a day, 
are fifty sen. Eaborers receive thirty sen and stone-cutters eighty sen 
in summer and seventy-five sen in winter. 

In all cases men find themselves in food and clothing. 

In the country men laborers are paid one yen, or fift}^ cents a month, 
and are furnished with food and clothing. 



ON THE ROAD— AKAKURA -NAOETSU— 

NIIGATA.. 

Akakura — Hot springs — Eating with chopsticks — A warm bath— 
Blackened teeth — Naoetsn — Equalization of labor — Umbrellas — Kata- 
machi — The new railroad^x\oniigawa — Kashiwazaki — An inn receipt 
— Souvenirs— Jinrikisha rates — A "corner" in jinrikishas — Tashiro— 
Mi3'anioto—Yoita- Floods and freshets — Prayers for clear weather — A 
Japanese steamer. 

We leave Nagano this morning at 9.30 by train for 
Akakiira, en route for Naoetsn. How beaiitiftil, from 
the car window, is the view of the lofty monntains, with 
the wide plains at their feet ! At Toyono we have a 
clear sight of Tojaknshi-san and Ken-no-mine moun- 
tains, and last in the grand triad comes Myoko-zan, 
with its elevation of eight thotisand one htmdred and 
eighty feet. These mountains overlook a beantiful 
valley. 

The grade is now npward until we reach Kashiwa- 
bara Station, at an altitude of two thousand two hnndred 
feet. We do not stop again until we arrive at Aka- 
kura, when we leave the train, and after refreshing our- 
selves with a Clip of tea at a neighboring inn we leave 
oiir baggage in the care of the landlady, and take jin- 
rikishas for the celebrated Hot S^Drings, four miles dis- 
tant. 

224 



ON THE ROAD. 225 

On the way we pass a small settlement, which, was 
only a few days ago a prosperous hamlet, but is now a 
mass of charred ruins. The entire population is at 
work, endeavoring to rebuild their wrecked homes. 

In this section women and girls work equally with 
the men. 

The road is up and down hills, which makes it hard 
for the jinrikisha men. Of course, when the hills are 
very steep, we relieve them by walking. At the springs 
we have clean and comfortable quarters on the second 
floor of the best inn, Kogaku-ro. Tiffin is served in 
Japanese fashion, with chopsticks. How awkward they 
are, in eatiug rice and soup ! However, I make a good 
lunch of hot rice, fish, soup, and some small sweet- 
meats. 

After tiflin, we take a short nap, then prepare for a 
hot bath in water that flows directly from the heart of 
the mountain. We are shown to a small room on the 
ground floor, about twenty-five feet square, in the centre 
of which is a tub, about ten feet square and four feet 
deep. Here we make our first dip into mineral water 
at a temperature of at least one hundred and twenty- 



NoTE. — At all inns, chopsticks are fnrnished with the meal. You 
will find upon the tra^^ holding the meal, a nice new pair enclosed in a 
paper napkin. They are cut in such a manner that the tops are still 
joined together, and when broken apart, a toothpick is found secreted 
between them. 

15 



226 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

five degrees. When we emerge, vSome ten minutes later, 
we look like boiled lobsters. Two little girls bring us 
towels, and we return to our room to rest after this 
boiling process. 

In my room again, I call for some hot tea, and the 
little Neisan sits beside me, fanning me while I drink, 
as is the custom here. I observe that the teeth of this 
girl are blackened, and conclude that she is married. 
Upon my guide asking her if this is the case, she replies 
that she is not married, but that she blackens her teeth 
because she is twenty-four, and too old to marry. It is 
the custom here for married women, and maidens, when 
too old to marry, to blacken the teeth. The stain used 
for this purpose is made of iron juice and powdered 
fruit. The process is called Chaguro, or iron gate. 

The Japanese think that when a woman speaks, she 
spoils everything, and so the blackened teeth are sup- 
posed to give them the appearance of closed lips. 
Young girls powder the face, paint the cheeks and lips, 
and whiten the teeth. 

A short distance from the inn is the public bath- 
house. Within this building men and women bathe 
together. In some bath-houses a bamboo pole is 
stretched across the bath to separate the men and 
women, but this is not regarded, for men and women 
sit and talk together on the side of the tub in the most 
unconventional manner. 



ON THE ROAD. 22 7 

It is customary for the proprietor of the inn at which 
you stop for tea or rice, especially if he and his servants 
have been liberally supplied with chai-dai, or " tea- 
money," to walk a short distance down the road, and 
stand there till you pass, bowing profoundly, and saying 
"iVrigato!" (thank you), and "Sayonara" (good-b3^e). 
At 4.50 p. M. we take the train at Akakura station for 
Naoetsu, and arrive there in two hours. This is the 
terminus of the railroad. 

x\t the Iga Inn here I am honored with the best, or 
'' gold " room, commanding a very prett}^ garden, which 
is reserved for distinguished guests. And, as usual, the 
landlady appears with profound bows, her head touching 
the ground, with profuse apologies for her inconvenient 
rooms, and the poor service of her house. 

When traveling in the interior of Japan, one must 
learn to do without milk, butter, meats of all kinds, 
bread and water, and confine his diet to rice, tea, fish, 
eggs, and sake. 

Water in Japan is unwholesome from the fact that 
the rice fields, which are generally irrigated, are heavily 
covered with human manure, and the streams cannot 
escape infection. An excellent drink is made of barle}^ 
baked and steeped in hot w^ater, as tea, without sugar. 

We spend a couple of da3^s at Naoetsu, arranging for 
our trip by jinrikisha and on foot to Niigata. It is 
necessary for each jinrikisha to have two extra men, 



228 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

as the roads are rough, and hard to pull over, especially 
as far as the first village, where we change our men. 
We hope to reach Yoita, a distance of fifty-five niileSj 
before night, if it does not rain. 

Since leaving Naoetsu, the sky has clouded over, and 
we are threatened with rain. We pass through many 
small vilhiges, where we notice that only a few of the 
houses have thatched roofs, the others being mostly of 
shingles, upon which are placed heavy cobble-stones, to 
prevent them from being blown away by the violent 
winds that frequent these districts during the winter 
season. 

Our road is the main thoroughfare, and eyes and 
fingers are kept busy taking notes. Women and girls 
are as great workers as the men in tliis province. They 
are strong and muscular. I was amused to see a little, 
brown-skinned girl, about seven or eight years old, 
trying to carry a log fully as large as herself to a 
neighboring wood-pile. The early training of these 
children gives them strength and endurance. The 
large forms of the women would naturally impress one 
with the idea that they were incapable of hard labor, 
but this is not the case ; they can stand all kinds of 
work and weather. Like the men, they invariably 
carry their tobacco pouches and pipes at their sides, 
for smoking is a national custom, common to men, 
women, and children. 



ON THE ROAD. 2 29 

The road is being repaired, and for miles we run over 
a kind of slag, which renders travel rough, unpleasant, 
and tedious. Thus far we have passed only shanties, 
there being no good houses in this section of the coun- 
tr3^ In many villages there are rows of these shanties 
bordering the streets, with the closets directl}^ in front 
of them. The drainage of these places is bad, and one 
can easily account for the dreadful odors which greet 
us as we pass through. Not onl}^ are diseases and dirt 
prevalent, but at many of the shops quantities of un- 
ripe fruit are exposed for sale, and costing but a trifle, 
are indulged in by the young people to the extent of 
their pocket-books. 

The large straw hat is general!}^ worn here, although 
mau}^ of the women have onl^^ a towel over their heads. 
Heavy wooden shoes and straw sandals are common, 
and just as universal are the oiled paper umbrellas car- 
ried by pilgrims and other pedestrians to protect them 
from the sun and rain. Many of the inns loan these 
umbrellas to their patrons. Such have the name of the 
inn painted conspicuously on the cover in the sign 
language of Japan. Individuals also have their names 
upon their umbrellas, so that it would not be an easy 
thing to steal one of them and escape detection. Should 
one require an extra hamper, a very excellent one can 
be purchased at any of the villages. These are called 
" Kori,'^ and are made of straw and sold at a low price. 



230 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

By the roadside are many simple Shinto shrines, made 
by placing one large stone npright npon another, and 
a cheaply constrncted torii in front. It is not uncom- 
mon to see the natives kneeling before these shrines, 
praying to the deity whom the sacred images represent. 

Our first stop, since leaving Naoetsu, is at the vil- 
lage of Katamachi, which is not unlike the other vil- 
lages through which we have passed. It is astonishing 
how the jinrikisha men w411 jog along with their bur- 
den, never stopping to rest or take breath until the 
journey is completed. At this village we take a short 
rest and a cup of tea at a tea house, then move forward 
with fresh jinrikisha men and wagons. We pass thus 
from village to village, changing our men and wagons 
at the end of every five or ten miles. 

As usual, I attract much attention in all these places. 
At Katamachi I am surrounded by a number of vil- 
lagers, among them a 3^oung girl, who is so much 
excited by my strange appearance that she runs across 
the street to her home, and brings back with her two 
old women and a couple of sisters, all of whom stand 
staring and laughing at me until I am out of sight. 

We skirt the ocean front for miles and miles, then 
follow a path about a quarter of a mile inland. We 
can now see the island of Sado on our left, about fifteen 
miles from the mainland. 

The number of children in this part of the country 



ON THE ROAD. 23 1 

is enormous. The older ones are poorly clad, and 
many of the younger ones are quite naked. This seems 
to be the most prolific of all the crops raised on these 
islands. 

The Hokuitsu Railroad Company is building, with 
private capital, a line from Naoetsu to Niigata, a dis- 
tance of eighty- four miles. The proposed route skirts 
the ocean, close to the main road. All along our way, 
men, women, and girls are at work upon it, the women, 
equally with the men, carrying bricks, earth, or stones 
in baskets suspended from long poles across their shoul- 
ders. It is a strange sight, and somewhat sad, to see a 
strong, pretty, and attractive girl carrying great loads 
of brick and stone. We also see hundreds of women 
and girls picking and shoveling dirt. I have thought 
that the life of the factory girl in America is bad 
enough, but it is pleasant, compared with that of these 
poor souls. 

Stopping the jinrikisha, I ask what are the wages 
of these poor people, and am informed that the railroad 
company pays them twenty sen, or ten cents a day, 
providing also rice and other cheap articles of food. 
The hours of work are from sunrise to sunset. What 
a life of slaver}^ with no prospect of anything easier as 
tlie}^ grow older ! 

After we leave the village of Kakizaki, the route is 
more mountainous. In many places the grade is so 



232 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

steep that we are obliged to walk, while the men pull 
the wagons after us. The best way to travel through 
the interior is to send jinrikisha men ahead with the 
luggage, to engage men and carriages for the following 
stage, thus saving time and trouble. 

The wide expanse of ocean, together with the rugged 
rocks, forms a beautiful picture. Now we climb the 
side of a mountain, looking down upon the village 
through which w^e have just passed. Here and there 
we can see where the tunnels of the new railroad will 
penetrate the mountains, and all along the route is con- 
stantly heard the sound of blasting rocks, and the hum 
of busy laborers upon the various sections of the road. 
Over each batch of natives is placed an overseer, who 
takes good care that there is no lagging in the work. 
The laborers are lightl}^ clad, but are prohibited b}' law 
from appearing in a nude state. When the da3^s are 
hot, as to-day, this law is not strictly observed, and it is 
not uncomuion to see, within the inns, women, naked 
from the waist up, and men without a vestige of clothing. 

The heat is oppressive. I find the temperature to 
be 90° under my umbrella and 106° in the sun, and yet 
I do not suffer as one would suppose in this tempera- 
ture. I think the foreigner stands it quite as well as 
and even better than the natives, whom I see lying 
around b}^ dozens and apparently prostrated b}' the 
heat. At Hachisaki we take tea as usual and change 



ON THE ROAD. 233 

men and wagons. There is always nuicli laughter 
aniong the jinrikisha men at these changes, as they 
survey dubiously my " great size and weight.'^ I am 
looked upon by these Japanese as a gigantic and power- 
ful personage. The natives, both men and women, are 
small and of light weight. 

Beyond the village the road is more mountainous, 
and we do much walking up the steep heights. This 
part of the journey is full of eujo^anent. The activity 
of the laborers upon the new road, their odd manner 
of working, and their strange tools, the many pilgrims 
wandering to and from souie noted shrine or temple, all 
are interesting sights. At times we meet numbers of 
people returning from a religious festival, scrambling 
over the mountains to their village homes. 

We rest and change men at Aomigawa, having made 
twenty-four and a half miles since leaving Naoetsu this 
morning. The tea house at which we stop is beauti- 
fully situated on the side of the mountain, one thousand 
feet above the sea. From this point we have a fine 
bird's-eye view of the ocean and the surrounding coun- 
try. The air is fresh and bracing. 

It is now 12.30 p. M,, and we have been moving con- 
stantly for five hours and a half. My guide prepares 
a good lunch of rice, eggs, canned meat, and a pot of 
tea. He carries it to a bench overlooking the sea, 
where we rest for three-quarters of an hour, then con- 



234 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

tinue our way between long ranges of mountains on 
one side and the Japan Sea on the other, which, with 
many strange customs and costumes of the people we 
meet, gives continual variety to the journey. Since 
leaving Naoetsu we have not seen a foreigner ; in fact, 
but two since leaving Nikko. 

Rain now comes on, and we have made only the 
short half of our day's journey. It is so violent, and as 
there is no prospect of clearing weather we decide to 
remain over night at the nearest village. It is not 
pleasant to be thoroughly drenched while traveling in 
this part of the country, where the sun is the only 
means of drying one's clothing. 

It is half-past two in the afternoon, and we enter the 
village of Kashi^vazaki, thirty miles from Naoetsu. 
We go directly to the Iwatoya, or Rock Gate house, the 
best inn in the place, where we pass a ver}^ comfortable 
night. Rising at five o'clock, we partake of a break- 
fast of boiled rice and raw eggs, and at 6.30 are again 
on the road. It is still wet and unpleasant, with no 
signs of clearing. Oiled wraps and waterproofs are at 
hand, and rain is never allowed to delay the traveler in 
Japan, or interfere with the carr3nng out of his plans. 
There are a few things that might stir up his nerves, 
such as earthquakes, floods, and tidal waves. The first 
two of these I have experienced to some extent ; the 
latter, fortunatel}^, never. 



ON THE ROAD. 235 

An '' inn receipt," as they call it, more properly a 
letter of introduction, is given by the hosts or land- 
ladies of inns to their patrons on leaving, when re- 
quested. We find these letters of great advantage in 
going from inn to inn, and in engaging men and wagonSc 

Every inn in Japan has, according to law, a printed 
or written notice hanging upon its \^all, stating its rates 
for meals and lodgings. These rates are first, second, 
third, and fourth class. 

It is also customary for the landlord or landlady to 
present to the guest a souvenir at parting, such as 
elaborately printed towels, boxes made of lacquered 
wood, small picture-books, aud the like. I have quite a 
collection of these little gifts. 

The legal rate for jinrikisha men throughout the 
country is seven sen per ri, a distance of two and forty- 
four one-hundredths English statute miles, or, roughly 
speaking, a trifle under two and one-half miles. The 
native of Japan pays at this rate, whether he is heavy 
or light in weight, but foreigners are always charged 
more, because, it is said, they are much heavier than 
the natives, and are generally in a great hurry, com- 
pelling the men to go on a trot instead of a walk. 
Therefore a rate of nine and one-half sen per ri is 
demanded. These jinrikisha men will run, on a stretch, 
at an average of seven and eight miles an hour, pulling 
a passenger of medium weight. Should the passenger 



236 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

be heavy, two men are necessary. Our men have 
frequently run seven and one-half miles an hour, two 
men to each wagon, up and down a hilly road. I have 
also had two men pull me twelve miles without making 
a single stop, the entire distance being covered at a 
trotting gait. 

It is sometimes amusing, and somewhat anno3nng, 
upon our arrival at a village where a change is to be 
made, to find the men trying to put us in a " hole," as 
it were. At one of the places, the four men that we 
required were all disabled (?). One had a very bad 
headache, a wet towel being tied around his head. One 
had stomach-ache, and could hardl}^ walk ; the third 
was so sick, sitting down with his head betweeu his 
hands ; the fourth had sore feet. After an hour's 
delay I asked the guide what we were to do? He 
laughed, and said they had a ^'corner" in jinrikishas 
in that village, and that a letter of introduction 
to the inn would not avail to heal these poor men's 
ailments. However, the offer of an extra sen per 
mile soon cured the afflicted creatures, and with that 
salve applied to their various diseases, we were soon 
flying along at a more rapid pace than heretofore. 
Money is a good medicine, which must be freely 
administered if one desires to make haste in .slow 
Japan. The demands, however, are moderate, and the 
railroads now in process of construction throughout the 



ON THE ROAD. 



237 



country, will render the traveler more independent in 
the future. 

The jinrikisha men are generally small and slender, 
but quite muscular. They live almost entirely upon 

r 




Here are Two Girls at a Well, Drawing Water. 

rice, fish, raw eggs, and tea. One's first experience of 
jinrikisha riding naturally gives him a feeling of great 
sympathy for these men in their laborious work, but 



238 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

when lie becomes accustomed to this mode of traveling, 
with all its vicissitudes and impositions, pity is fre- 
quently left in the background, and the little human 
horses are treated simply as beasts of burden. 

We reach the village of Sochi in an hour, making a 
distance of nearly seven and one-half miles. We are pass- 
ing through a flat and uninteresting part of the coun- 
try ; but the interesting people that we meet, and the 
odd-looking houses and their surroundings, in the many 
villages through which we pass, vary the monotony of 
the journey. In a number of places the entire life of 
the people within the houses is exposed to public view, 
and thus we are witnesses of curious sights. Here, 
near a little cottage of one stor^^, are two girls at a well, 
drawing water and washing their tubs and buckets, and 
looking very quaint and picturesque in their native cos- 
tumes. 

Here a coolie is carrying great bundles upon a sort 
of wooden chair strapped to his back, and looking, as 
usual, heavy and unintelligent. 

We halt and change at the village of Tashiro. As 
we ride along we see women and girls pushing great 
loads in heavy carts. Sometimes a small boy is in 
front, holding up the shafts. I have seen loads, con- 
sidered heav}^ for strong horses, pushed thus by a 
woman and a boy, up and down hills, for miles over the 
country. 



ON THE ROAD. 



239 



At Miyamoto we find a nice clean tea house, and are 
served by two pretty Neisan, who laugh merrily, and 
seem to think I am a very strange sort of being. In 
all these villages the tea houses are so much alike, in- 




A Coolie Carrying Great Bundles upon a Sort of Wooden Chair. 

side and out, that one can almost believe that he re- 
turns again and again to the same place. 

In winter snow often falls in this region to a depth 



240 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

of from three to five feet, and remains long on the 
ground, owing to the extremely cold weather. In these 
cases the streets are scarcely used at all. the people 
passing from place to place under the small sheds in 
front of their houses. 

Here are large fields of the Kara, which is used in 
making tliatched roofs. It is mixed in equal quantities 
with rice straw, and is said to form a roof of enduring 
qualit}^, cool in summer and warm in winter. 

We have reached our last station, Yoita, in the vil- 
lage of Hara, where we take a small steamer for Nii- 
gata, about forty miles distant, hoping to arrive at six 
o'clock this evening. As the steamer does not leave 
her dock until one o'clock, we have plenty of time for 
rest and refreshment. Our run from Kashiwazaki this 
morning was about twent3'-four miles. 

There have been great floods and freshets in this dis- 
trict. The neighboring rivers have risen to such an 
extent, owing to the heavy rains of July, that for miles 
and miles fields, roads, and houses are wholly or in part 
covered with water, making the countr^^ look desolate 
and doing much injur\^ to the crops. Carpenters and 
other workmen are seen at all points, repairing the 
damages to field and property. Being near some of 
these men, I request my guide to ask them what 
wages they are paid, and am informed that they 
receive fifteen sen, or seven and one half cents a day. 



ON THE ROAD. 24 1 

if food is supplied ; without food they are paid thirty 
sen a day. 

This is quite an anxious time in Japan on account 
of the advanced state of the rice crop, and the probabil- 
ity of it being ruined by continued rain. Prayers for 
clear weather are offered at all the shrines and temples 
by the country people. At many of the larger villages 
religious festivals are held, and the various gods are 
besought to withhold their wrath. I have seen several 
of the processions going to or returning from their 
places of worship. From present indications their ap- 
peals do not seem to be having the desired effect, for we 
are having much rain, and the crops are in danger of 
being wholly destroyed. 

It is time for our steamer. Hearing a shrill whistle, 
I look down the river, and see a very small vessel com- 
ing towards the landing. In a few moments she is 
abreast of us, and a large board is laid from the bank 
to her deck. The river is the Shinano-gawa, which 
empties into the Sea of Japan at Niigata. It is very 
wide and shallow, and experience and judgment are 
necessary to navigate its waters, even with this small 
craft. It is interesting to watch the country people go 
aboard, in their scanty clothing, with their queer-look- 
ing bundles and hand-satchels. They follow each other 
in single file across the plank and into the cabins, which 
are first and second class. 
16 



242 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

A Japanese steamer is different from tliose in onr 
countr3\ Of the two cabins, the fore cabin is for first- 
class passengers, the aft cabin for those of the second 
class. These cabins are devoid of all fnrnitnre. Matting 
covers the floor, and in the first-class cabins there are 
leather cnshions. Those of the second class have no 
cnshions. In the centre of each is a hibashi, or char- 
coal fire, from which the passengers receive some heat, 
and by which they light their pipes. The men and 
women hnddle together. The captain, whose qnarters 
are above the lower cabins, invites me to go np there 
with my gnide. He offers me a sort of a bench npon 
which I sit, and have a fine view from his windows of 
the conntry in which I am so much interested. 



MOUNTAIN ROADS— JINRIKISHA MEN— AND 

RAIN. 

On a Japanese steamer — Aground — Niigata — Change of route — 
Photographing the tea girls — Kanieda— Universal Panacea — Bad roads 
— Jinrikisha men on a strike ^Tobacco fields — Yasuda— Tiffin — A 
curious crowd — Komatsu— Deep Gully — the Aganogawa — Dangerous 
road — Kuroiwa Pass — Mountain echo — An overturned jinrikisha — 
Tsugawa — Pipes at night — ^Japanese toothbrushes — Spectacles — Too 
much rain — Wax tree — Cedars and cr^ptomerias — Torii Pass — Worse 
and worse — Nozawa — Wakamatsu— Tabanematsu tunnel — Bridge of 
boats — Crossing the bridge — Bange. 

With a shrill whistle we are off; the boat is propelled 
by two wooden paddles. From ray window I see in the 
distance hundreds of men and women repairing a dyke 
with strange-looking machines. There are several tall 
derricks and hnge stone hammers, the latter being 
lifted by strong ropes. Some fifty of the workmen rnn 
along, pnlling the end of the rope, and nttering loud 
shonts. When the hammer is lifted to the top of the 
derrick, they let go the rope, with another shont, and 
the heavy weight falls npon the pile below. This oper- 
ation is repeated again and again until the pile is 
firmly driven. 

Shortly after this we run aground. I wonder what 
now ? The little steamer ptiifs and sends forth great 

243 



244 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

volumes of steam, and makes a great fuss generally, 
but does not move an inch. Now the captain, with four 
or five men and long bamboo poles, push and push, but 
the boat seems only the more deeply imbedded in the 
mud. One of the crew strips off his cotton shirt and 
jumps overboard to take soundings, of which the cap- 
tain makes a note. Steam is again put on, and the 
boat turns, as if on a pivot. At last she is released, and 
to our joy we are once more steaming down the riven 
Where the stream is so shallow that it will not admit 
of the passage of a steamboat we change to a sampan, 
rowboats being provided for baggage and other freight. 

I excite as much interest in the passengers as they 
do in me, and we look at each other in mutual wonder. 
At Sangeo village we are transferred to another steamer, 
and again, after going a short distance, we change to a 
new and larger vessel. This captain is as friendly as 
his predecessors, and I share his room in the wheel- 
house above the cabins. Every passenger seems to 
have the privilege of talking to him and his assistants, 
especially when they are most seriously engaged in 
steering the steamer through the channel, and past pro- 
jecting rocks. But he is very polite, and answers all 
questions with a smile. I am filled with admiration for 
his good nature. 

Here are neither lights nor buo\^s to direct the navi- 
gator. The river is wide at this point, the shallow 



MOUNTAIN ROADS. ^45 

places being made navigable by a series of dykes along 
the banks. 

It is 7.30 p. M., and we can see the lights of Niigata 
in the distance. One-half honr more, and we are safely 
landed with our baggage. As we enter the streets, the 
shouting from the throats of at least fifty jinrikisha 
men reminds me of Liberty Street ferry, in the cit}^ of 
New York. 

Niigata is an open port, with a population of over 
thirty-three thousand souls. It was opened to foreign 
trade in 1869. 

Calling for two jinrikishas, a half-a-dozen answer us, 
and a great jabbering as to who will take us follows. 
The discussion is finally settled by one of the men 
taking from his pocket six pieces of cord, one of which 
he hands to each of the contestants. Each man holds 
one end of his cord; the other ends are twisted together. 
Then the arbitrator steps forward, and takes hold of 
two of the loose ends. The men holding the corre- 
sponding ends take us in their jinrikishas, and we are 
quickly carried to the best inn, the Yoshi-kwan. 

Sunday, September 6th. — The day is rainy, and the 
thermometer seventy-two in the shade. I devote the 
day to rest and letter-writing, also to the discussion of 
plans of travel with my guide. Sundays are not espe- 
cially sacred in Japan. All days with them are alike, 
and they work the whole seven days of the week. 



246 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

After tiffin, we stretch ourselves upon the floor, and, 
with maps before us, plan out the best route. The 
recent heavy storms and freshets have washed many of 
the mountain roads, so that they are at present im- 
passable. 

This information compels us to change materially 
the route of our mountain trip to Sendai. We there- 
fore decide to leave here to-morrow b}^ a small steamer 
for Kameda, thence by 'rikisha to Tsugawa, Wakamatsu 
and Motomiya. At the latter point we strike the rail- 
road, by which we go to Fuku-Shima, Shiogama, Mat- 
sushima, Morioka and Aomori. Our line of travel may 
extend over a larger portion of the countr^^, and in 
other directions. This will depend upon the condition 
of the rivers and roads. 

Before leaving Niigata, I ask the landlord's permis- 
sion to pliotograph some of his tea-girls. He calls up 
those who have waited upon me during my sta}^ here, 
and directs them to stand in the garden, near my room. 
I make several photographs of them. 

At the landing a little steam launch is waiting to 
convey us to Kameda, a distance of seven and one-half 
miles. My guide and I sit upon the roof of the cabin, 
and my feet, dangling over in their American shoes, 
seem to afford much amusement to the young Japanese 
ladies within the cabin. We take this boat through the 
Horinoki-gawa canal, then go by jinrikisha over a road 



MOUNTAIN ROADS. 247 

running parallel with tlie canal. First-class fare for 
one person is ten sen. 

Strange sights meet our eyes. The hour being earl3^ 
8.30 A. M., there are numbers of women washing clothes 
in the canal, while boys and girls are bathing their 
little brown bodies, enjoying meanwhile much sport. 
Dozens of sampans, of various shapes, are pushed 
along the water by men and women with long bamboo 
poles. Their cargoes are stone ballast, vegetables, and 
merchandise. 

We arrive at Kameda in an hour, and go at once to 
the best inn in the village. At these first-class inns 
you have the advantage of securing honest and reliable 
jinrikisha men, the cha-dai, or tea-money, being consid- 
ered by the proprietor suf&cient payment for his influ- 
ence in your behalf. 

As usual, good men are here recommended, and we 
flatter ourselves that we are ready to start, when, rain 
having set in, the men absolutely refuse to go, saying 
the roads are muddy, and hard to pull over. The jin- 
rikisha men in this section are well-to-do, and more 
independent than those at Yokohama, Tok3^o, and other 
large cities. I see that they again have a " corner " 
which only the Universal Panacea can open. An extra 
sen per ri soon overcomes their disinclination, and we 
are off at a good pace. 

A comely young girl sat in the inn while my guide 



24S VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

was bargaining with the landlady, and, rather to my 
surprise, I was subsequently informed that she was 
flirting with me. These girls have a peculiar way of 
flirting, which can be appreciated only by a personal 
experience in this country. 

In many of the houses of Kameda we see young 
girls spinning. Only young girls are employed in this 
work. The district is noted for the abundance of cotton 
and tobacco raised. The rain now comes down in 
earnest, but we are well protected by wrap and covering, 
which is a source of great satisfaction, for mau}^ of the 
jinrikishas are in bad condition, and the occupants 
experience considerable discomfort when it rains. 

We stop at a small tea house in the village of Ouukiu, 
where we again have trouble in securing men to carry 
us forward. We have anticipated this, however, for 
before leaving Niigata we learned of the dreadful con- 
dition of the roads, and the refusal of the men to draw 
passengers. But the universal remedy once more 
proves successful, and we continue our journey. 

The country here is flat and uninteresting. We pass 
many pilgrims and other pedestrians on the thorough- 
fare. The dress of the men and women is uniform, con- 
sisting of tight-fitting trousers and a loose coat, with a 
large straw hat or a towel tied on the head. 

We pass large fields of tobacco, and see upon the 
sides of the houses quantities of the tobacco-leaf hung 



MOUNTAIN ROADS. 



249 



Up to dry. Now and then we meet a cart laden with 
tobacco, and drawn by a bull. Instead of a yoke, such 
as we use in America, a wooden stick or board rests 
upon the neck of the animal. 

B}^ this time the rain is coming down in torrents. 
After a hard pull through very soft and uneven roads, 




Now AND Then we Meet a Cart Laden with Tobacco and Drawn j 

BY A Bull. 



we reach a tea house in the village Yasuda in time for 
tiffin. 

While I am eating my rice and eggs, a dozen bo3^s and 
girls are peeping through the window at me, and not 
satisfied that they alone should see this curious stranger 



250 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

eating with a knife and fork, they run off, and soon 
return accompanied by a score of older people, who 
stare and wonder with wide eyes, standing like statues. 
I request the guide to disperse this crowd, which he 
promptly does, and I finish the meal in comfort. 

At Komatsu we have still greater difficulty in pro- 
curing men. The landlord of our inn uses all his 
influence, but it is of no avail. The men flatly refuse 
to take us. There seems to be a contention among 
them. I hear earnest and loud talking, and the guide 
tells me they are having a " hot time." They tell us 
that the road be3^ond us is impassable, in consequence 
of washouts and fallen bridges, and that if they start 
they will be compelled to turn back. Still we are not 
discouraged, and my guide asks me what we shall do? 

I say we will push on, even if we must walk. After 
a long time, and just as we are about to carry out this 
resolution, the men come to us, and say that they will 
take us if we will pay twenty sen per ri to each man. 
This is double au}^ price that we have 3^et paid, and 
nearly three times the fare allowed b}^ law. However, 
we engage them, and set out. Henceforward we have a 
good deal of sharp bargaining at every village where a 
change is made. 

It is really pitiable to see these men pulling their 
heavy loads over the rough and muddy roads, which 
grow worse with every mile. We bounce from side to 



MOUNTAIN ROADS. 25 1 

side, and apparently are only by chance saved from 
upsetting. Should this state of affairs continue, we 
will be compelled either to walk, or give up this route 
altogether. Even now many places are so badly washed 
that we often walk a mile at a time, when we are com- 
pletely drenched. 

We reach Nakasendo after much difficulty and delay. 
The view here is picturesque and beautiful. Tall 
mountains surround us, and the lovely Agano-gawa 
flows at their feet. No one would think that this peace- 
ful stream, only a few weeks ago, caused such fearful 
havoc and destruction to homes and property. 

The road is becoming impassable, and ni}^ guide tells 
me that there is much grumbling among the men for 
having come, even at the excessive rate of twenty sen 
per ri. We now walk still more frequently, where the 
road is badly washed. Here we must cross a long, 
stout plank, which has been placed over a deep hollow. 
The men follow with the wagons on their backs. At 
many places the path is very narrow, and I think if 
there should be a landslide, or even should we make a 
misstep, we would be precipitated a hundred feet into 
the river below. 

The little village of Igaskima is a charming spot. 
Mountains of the same name rise far above us. The 
rain is pouring down upon us, and our next stopping- 
place is still five miles distant. We are anxious lest 



252 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

the night should come upon us before we reach it. 
Without lamps, and the road in such a condition, we 
would indeed be in a dangerous plight. 

Suddenly a deep gully appears, fully fort}^ feet wide, 
with a narrow foot-bridge over it. We step upon it 
cautiously, and the men follow with the wagons, using 
the utmost care, for a slip here would mean the total 
destruction of their frail burdens, and possibly loss of 
life. However, we all pass over in safet}^ The scenery 
grows more and more beautiful, combining river and 
mountain in grand and rugged effect. 

Now we have trouble indeed, for the large bridge, a 
hundred feet long and fifteen feet wide, has been swept 
from its foundations, and carried b}^ the freshet to a 
distance of twenty feet, where it is twisted to an angle 
of forty-five degrees, with the wild and rapid current 
under it. This is a sad predicament. What shall we 
do ? We must push onward, for the distance is too 
great to turn back. After a consultation, we decide that 
our six jinrikisha men must carry their wagons over as 
best they can, and we will tr}^ to creep over. Danger- 
ous and almost impossible as this looks, we finally 
accomplish it, and after an hour of hard work find our- 
selves safe and sound on the other side. 

Kuroiwa Pass is a scene worthy of an artist's brush. 
Above us on our right is the rock}^ Kobanji, and at its 
base a tunnel one hundred and fifty feet long, wliicli we 



MOUNTAIN ROADS. 253 

now enter. As we go through, our men utter loud 
shouts, and the echo responds to the different voices. 

The mountains here are extremely precipitous, and 
dangerous for pedestrians. We follow the course of the 
Agano-gawa, as it winds its way over a rocky bed, 
accompanied by the lofty mountains. The way is so 
dark and rough that, fearing an accident, I get out and 
walk. The guide follows my example, and it is well 
that he does, for not ten minutes later one of the jin- 
rikishas turns over, and all its contents are thrown in 
the mud. A pretty sight ! 

And what has become of my cameras and plates ? 
I fear much damage will be the result of this wet and 
hazardous expedition. I am thankful that it was not 
one of us that received such ill treatment. At Kiyokawa 
we leave the jinrikishas behind, but take the men to 
carry our baggage. We are taken over to the town of 
Tsugawa in a small row-boat, and reach a good inn here 
at eight o'clock. We have traveled seven miles and 
a half by steamer, and thirty-two and three-quarters 
miles by jinrikisha, through rain and over bad roads, 
to-day. 

As our men are tired, and it is late for them to return 
to their village, I arrange for their supper and lodging, 
with breakfast at the inn, for which they show their 
appreciation by profound bows. The accommodations 
here are not of the best, as we find in these regions only 



254 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

inns of purely Japanese character. As I lie in ni}^ bed 
on the floor, thinking of the many advantages and 
comforts of home, I am annoyed by the continual tap, 
tap, tap of pipes, and by weird, unpleasant music and 
songs, until late in the night. The clicking noise at 
intervals of one or two minutes is caused by the 
smokers striking their pipes upon a bamboo box in the 
hibashi to empty them. 

Another strange sight, and one constantly met with, 
is the enormous smoked-glass spectacles worn b}^ the 
natives of Japan, to protect their e3xs from the sun. 
These spectacles are fully two inches in diameter, and 
perfectly round, giving the wearer a ver}^ peculiar 
appearance. However, in time one becomes accustomed 
to all these odd sights, and ceases to wonder at an3^thing. 

We pass an uncomfortable night, for our clothing is 
quite wet from the day's exposure. After a breakfast 
of hot rice, eggs, and tea, we leave Tsugawa at half- 
past seven o'clock, hoping to reach Wakamatsu before 
nightfall. I am disappointed to find it raining hard, 
and as we will pass on the way some of the most beau- 
tiful mountain scener^^, this fact will interfere consid- 
erably with my photographing. 

Note. — One sees queer tooth-brushes when traveliug in the interior. 
They are made of sticks of wood, the size of a lead pencil, sharpened at 
one end for a tooth-pick, while on the other end is a sort of a mop. 
The brushes are thrown away after being- used once. They are sold in 
packages of a dozen, at two or three sen a bunch. 



MOUNTAIN ROADS. 255 

I thank my stars, while traveling in Japan, and 
especially during this rainy season, that there is such 
a medicine as quinine, to which I attribute the preven- 
tion of colds and other troubles, consequent upon ex- 
posure to this unfamiliar climate. The country about 
us is wild and picturesque, reminding me of the 
mountain scenery in central Pennsylvania. Here are 
numbers of small trees, called wax trees, from which 
the famous lacquer liquid, used so extensively by the 
Japanese in oil-finished woodwork, is made. Candles 
are also made from the seed. The roads in Japan are 
ballasted with small pebbles gathered from the rivers in 
the vicinity. In the absence of rivers, stone is brought 
from the mountains, and broken into small pieces, such 
as we do on our country roads. 

Here are forests of cedars and cryptomerias. We 
pass acre after acre of this valuable wood. Cedar is 
extensively used in building houses, and especially for 
the floors of inns. It is never painted or varnished, 
but planed and finished to a high degree of perfection, 
and being constantly traveled over by " stocking feet," 
acquires a fine polish. 

It is a curious fact that the women of Japan, of all 
ranks, walk with their feet turned in, and are generally 
bow-legged. I attribute this to the universal custom of 
sitting on their feet. 

Again we see in the distance mountains, from fifteen 



256 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

hundred to two thousand feet high, with their peaks 
enveloped in mist and clouds. I wonder if it will ever 
stop raining ! 

The way begins to ascend, and I learn that we are at 
the foot of Torii Pass. The road is barely passable, 
and deep gullies and ruts covered with mud and water 
render the tracks uncertain. We do not know how far 
we will sink in this mud, or whether we will not at any 
minute be hurled from the wagons. Our wheels sink 
deeper and deeper, and are extricated with difficulty. 
The rain comes in torrents, and the wind increases 
every moment. The men make frequent halts, for the 
pull is a hard one. Grand scenery is all about us, and 
as we climb higher and higher, we behold the summits 
of the neighboring mountains. The wind, by this 
time has become a gale, and I feel as though our wagons 
wull surely be blown away. The tops of the jinrikishas 
and the oil cloth coverings have entirel}^ disappeared. 

Upon reaching the mountain top, we find that we 
have been two hours in making the ascent. VVe rest 
at a tea house on the roadside, and give the men a lunch 
of rice, raw eggs, tea, and dried fish, the cost of which 
for six men is thirty sen, or fifteen cents of our mone3^ 

When we cross the boundary line, and pass into the 
province of Iwashiro, the road is horrible. Ruts twelve 
inches deep are seen on either side, and the mire is so 
thick and sticky that sometiuies the efforts of the whole 



MOUNTAIN ROADS. 257 

six men are necessary to release one wagon. As we 
descend, we pitch from side to side. How my man in 
the shafts bounds to and fro ! I can scarcely keep my 
seat. But I take a firm grip, and do my best to hold 
on, feeling as though I am floating in a tub on an 
angry sea. This unpleasant motion ceases, to my great 
joy, and we enter a tea house in the village of Muraoka, 
at the foot of the Kurunia Pass. Since leaving Tsugawa, 
we have covered a distance of six ri, or about sixteen 
miles. We have yet eleven ri before us, ere we reach 
Wakamatsu. 

At Muraoka we engage additional men, one for each 
wagon, making nine in all, and begin the ascent of 
another mountain pass, with the worst possible roads. 
My guide tells me that in his thirteen years' experience 
on the roads of Japan he has never seen any as bad as 
these. Even with the additional men, it is impossible 
to pull up the mountain passes, and we are two miles 
from the nearest tea house. The rain is coming down 
in sheets — " shot '' rain they call it in Japan — and the 
only thing to be done is to get out and walk ; so pulling 
a woollen blanket over my shoulders, and taking off my 
shoes, we set out, and make a tedious and laborious 
journey to the village of Nozawa, where we rest and 
eat a cold lunch. 

We now place four men on each wagon, paying their 
demand of twenty sen per ri to each man. We are at 
17 



258 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

the mercy of these men, and no one is better aware of 
the fact than they. Even with this number of men we 
are at times obliged to get out and walk. B}^ this time 
I am seasick, or ''jinrikisha" sick, for the constant and 
severe jolting has not only made me sick, but given me 
severe pains, which, however, I keep to myself. I am 
astonished at the rough usage our little wagons are 
capable of withstanding. 

The rain does not abate in the least, and the mud 
and water in our way are appalling ! Rivers and streams 
are rising, and great waterfalls rush madly by us, which 
in ordinary times are but small mountain streams or 
rivulets. 

We have grave doubts as to whether we will reach 
Wakamatsu to-night. Our men show signs of fatigue, 
and we have no hope of relieving them, or adding to our 
force. The difficulties and delays have been innumer- 
able. Oar frequent halts, getting in and out of the 
wagons, and the poor coverings, have made us wet and 
chilly. I occasionally take a swallow of the Japanese 
rice whiskey, called sake, which, with quinine is a safe- 
guard against cold. We have still twenty-three miles 
before us. The men are cheerful, and laugh or grunt, 
as they struggle on the way. The road increases in 
beauty, and it grieves me to think that I have a camera, 
yes, two of them, and a paint-box, and am unable to use 
any of them. 



MOUNTAIN ROADS. 259 

The oldest inhabitants inform me that they have 
never known snch continued and severe rains as the 
present ones. We are now on a new road, which was 
built about a year ago by private capital, subscribed in 
the neighboring villages. The old road was so cut up 
by constant and heavy travel as to render it almost 
impassable for jinrikishas. As w^e descend the Tabane- 
matsu Pass and mountain, a gradually widening pano- 
rama of wondrous beauty spreads itself out before us. 
Even in this great downpour of rain we halt several 
times for a parting glance at some exquisite bit of 
scenery. We are a thousand feet above the valley. 
The path is at times very narrow, and the water rushing 
over it and tumbling down the mountain side gives me 
a chill, as I think of my fate, should I follow this beck- 
oning, all-sweeping flood, this whimsical mountain 
sprite, who seems to bewitch one's senses to-day, as in 
the olden times of fairy lore. 

At the top of the mountain is a little tea house on the 
side of the road. Here we rest. A short distance from 
us is a tunnel in the mountain, only large enough for a 
jinrikisha to pass through. It is called the Tabane- 
matsu Tunnel, and is seven hundred and eighty feet long. 
Our men carry lighted lamps, as we pass through it, for 
it is quite dark in the centre. Coming out on the other 
side, we have a fine bird's-e3^e view of the valley, which 
is completely surrounded by mountains. 



26o VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

We have given up all hope of reaching Wakamatsu 
to-night. In fact, at the last tea house at which we 
stopped we were informed that theTadamikawa River is 
impassable, the bridge having been washed away. If 
this is the case, we are again cut short in our proposed 
route, and must turn back toward Nikko, for it is neces- 
sary to cross this river to continue our journey to 
Motomiya. With anxious thoughts I sit in my jin- 
rikisha, hoping the reports are unfounded. It is now 
dark, and the men halt to light their lanterns of oiled 
paper. 

We can hear the rush of the river long before its 
banks are in sight. At the village of Katakado, we 
learn that the risk of attempting to cross the river is 
great, as the temporary bridge is formed of a series of 
sampans, placed at distances of twenty feet apart, and 
held together by a huge steel cable, which extends from 
shore to shore. Upon these frail boats boards are 
loosely thrown, and these constitute the bridge. 

We stand upon the shore and observe this turbulent 
mass of water. It is about two thousand feet across, 
and at this point has become a rapids. The risk is 
obvious, and we learn that only two parties have 
attempted crossing. Should the cable which holds 
these jumping boats together break, our fate would be 
a serious one. 

I consider all things, and finally tell the guide we 



MOUNTAIN ROADS. 261 

will risk it. We engage several coolies, two of wlioni, 
bearing torches, are at the front and rear of our party, 
and wave their lights to and fro, making quite an illu- 
mination. After the first torchman, the other coolies 
follow with our baggage, then the guide, and lastly 
myself. Before starting, I take off my shoes, stockings, 
coat and vest, thinking, in case of accident, I will have 
more freedom of action without them. The planks are 
wet and slippery, and great care is required to balance 
ourselves upon the narrow footway, which is barely 
eighteen inches wide. 

The darkness of the night around us adds to the 
danger of the undertaking, but we keep our heads cool, 
and proceed very slowly. How the little boats rise and 
toss about 1 Sometimes we all stand still, fearing, if we 
make a movement, to be pitched overboard. A false 
step would mean certain death. When half-way across, 
I glance at the water madly surging by, only five feet 
below us, and for an instant a panic overpowers me. 
What if the rope which holds these boats should give 
way ? How foolish it was to attempt the crossing ! 
However, after fifteen minutes of suspense and intense 
excitement we land, bag and baggage, on the opposite 
bank, unharmed by our daring venture. 

In the village of Takatera we go to a tea house on 
the river bank, and there learn that to-day the river has 
risen six feet in five hours and a half. 



262 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

I would not repeat the experiment we have just made. 
It is an extremely dangerous expedient, and as the 
river is still rising, I predict that the cable will not 
hold through the night. 

After a tedious ride, we reach Bange at 9.15 P. M., 
wet, chilly, and exhausted, having traveled almost 
constantly for nearly fourteen hours, and covered a 
distance of fourteen ri, or about thirty-five miles. 

We are now three ri, or seven and one-half miles, 
from Wakamatsu. In our wet clothing, with a scanty 
meal of rice, raw eggs, and tea, we try to make our- 
selves comfortable. There are no chairs, tables, or 
beds here. Ever}^ one must pay homage to the floor. 

How I long for an eas}^ chair, and a table upon which 
to write and eat my meals ! How often I think of the 
comforts of home, the well-served meals, the savory 
meats and vegetables, arid the Inxur}^ of good water! 
The incessant clatter of the Neisan is tiresome ! It 
seems that these girls never rest, but clatter on forever. 
vSinoke and other foreign and disagreeable odors fill ni}^ 
rooui, and add to my discomfort. I am alone. The 
guide always leaves me in the evening, that I may 
write or make out plans for the following day, which we 
carry out or change, as circumstances ma\^ decide. 
Any one starting for the interior of Japan, and expecting 
to find the least approximation to the food or comforts 
of his beloved home, will be grievously disappointed. 



FROM BANGE TO SENDAL 

Definition of a " gentleman" — School children — The freshet — Cross- 
ing the Okavva — Carrying bundles — Wakamatsu^apanese doorways— ' 
More shrines — Takinozavva Pass and Mountain — Kutsukake— Lake 
Inawashiro — More rain — Yamagata — The anti-express — Naka^ama Pass 
— Freshets again — Motomiya —Curious people— Japaneseand American 
customs. 

We leave Bange this morning at 9.15, with no pros- 
pect of a clear day for our joiirne}^ to Lake Inawashiro. 

Before leaving the inn, an officer from the police 
station calls to say that the chief of the police does not 
understand the term " gentleman," given him as my 
occupation in America. 

When a traveler arrives at any of the inns through- 
out Japan, he is immediately waited upon by an officer, 
who asks for his passport, of whose contents a careftil 
record is made before it is rettirned to him. 

The word "gentleman" does not correspond with the 
Japanese idea of a profession. The officer tells me that 
any one who does right is surely a "gentleman," but 
that the term does not explain my occupation. He 
must have ni}^ trade or business for record. I try to 
explain to the guide the use of the word in our country, 
and tell him that I am one of those unfortunates who 

263 



264 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

hold government bonds and other secnrities, paying 
onl}^ two or three per cent., instead of six, and that my 
occupation at present is to cut off the interest coupons 
from month to month. Both guide and officer are 
puzzled over this business of " bond clipper," as in 
Japan a man is generally an officer, rice-grower, black- 
smith, boatman, farmer, artist, carpenter, or has some 
similar occupation. The officer requests us to call upon 
his chief, and satisfy him upon this point, so getting 
into our jinrikishas, we proceed to the chief's office. I 
do not get out, and the guide who represents me without 
doubt has a " hot time," for when he comes out his face 
is red. But he laughs and says it is all right. I do 
not know w^hat he has told the chief, but am convinced 
that " bond clipping " has been entered upon the Japan- 
ese records as a new profession. 

While the guide is absent I am much interested in 
watching the drill of some sixty or seventy school- 
children, about six or seven years of age. The school- 
house is a substantial square stone building, standing 
a hundred feet from tlie main road. The teacher, a 
pretty 3^oung Japanese girl, is leading them with 
songs ; whether sacred or national airs, I cannot say. 
They sound to my ears more like a Zulu war-cr3^ 

The march is accomplished with good effect. Before 
entering the school-house the ranks are broken, and the 
children run pell mell to a large trough of water, where 



FROM RANGE TO SENDAI. 265 

they slip off their wooden shoes and wash their feet, 
then form into line and march with songs into the 
schoolroom, as do our children at home. The sight is 
a very pretty one, and I am glad to see modern ways 
taught these little ones, who will some day assist in 
the improvements that Japan sadly needs in her social 
and business circles. 

Before we go very far we see evidences of the freshet. 
Field after field is inundated, and in man}- cases the 
rice is floating upon the surface of the water. Hun- 
dreds of men and women are at work straightening up 
the drooping heads and trying to save their crops from 
total destruction. Had the freshet occurred ten days 
ago the rice in this section would have been ruined. 
Now the berry is well matured, and it is not injured 
by the drenching. 

The road in many places is covered with two or three 
feet of water, through which our men wade. As we 
proceed we find that the Okawa is subsiding, but when 
we reach its banks we perceive that there will be great 
difficulty in crossing, and that it will be impossible to 
take our men and jinrikishas with us. There are many 
natives traveling, and our chances for securing wagons 
on the other side is very slim indeed. 

Taking a couple of coolies to carry our baggage, and 
removing our shoes and stockings and rolling up our 
trousers, we walk over a bridge, constructed as before, 



266 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

of planks loosely placed on sampans wliicli are held 
together by a strong iron cable stretched from bank to 
bank. In the centre of the river, a half-dozen of the 
sampans having been washed away in the night, we 
enter a boat, and two men, holding fast to the cable, 
pnll us across the intervening space. The river is high 
and the current swift and strong. We cross over safely 
to within a hundred feet of the opposite bank, when, 
there not being boats enough to finish the bridge, we 
wade to shore in water nearly up to our waists. 

The men suggest carrying me, but I say no, I will 
wade with the rest, and jumping in do the best I can. 
Sharp stones in the river bed cut my feet so that sev- 
eral times I am near falling, which affords great amuse- 
ment to the spectators on the bank. Reaching terra 
firma we secure the only disengaged iinrikishas in the 
place to take us to Wakamatsu. We wish two more 
for our baggage, and it is suggested that a runner be 
sent to the nearest village, two miles off, for these ; but 
he has scarcel}^ started when to our joy two wagons 
come up, and are immediately pounced upon b}" my 
guide. Now all is well again, and we are off after 
many obstacles and dela3^s. 

While we were resting at the last tea house I 
observed a number of middle-aged women, scantily 
clad, also resting and sipping their tea, with great 
bundles lying at their feet. I was so much interested 



FROM BANGK TO SENDAI. 267 

ill tliem and their bundles that I requested the guide to 
ask one of them the weight of her burden and how far 
she had carried it. I learned that the bundle weighed 
forty-five pounds, and she had walked fifteen miles 
with it ; also that this weight and distance are of 
small account, as many women carry burdens of from 
two hundred to two hundred and fifty pounds on long 
journeys. 

The country here is flat and monotonous. Its only 
attractive features are the mountains seen in the dis- 
tance. These are O Bandai and Ko-Bandai, the latter, 
six thousand feet high, was an active volcano in 1888, 
destroying many villages and more than four hundred 
and fifty inhabitants. Rice is the chief product in this 
section. Here we see the industrious farmer working 
in his fields in his large mushroom-shaped straw hat, 
with a straw mat thrown over his shoulders to protect 
them from the sun. 

We arrive at Wakamatsu in time for lunch, and ride 
to a very handsome inn, the Shimizu-ya, in which we 
find first-class accommodations. The little tea girls are 
pretty, clean, and attractive, with smiling faces and 
pearly teeth. 

The day is only partly clear. Great clouds now 
and then obscure the rays of the sun and render the 
atmosphere pleasant ; but when the sun does appear 
and shine upon the moist air and vegetation the tern- 



268 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

perature is that of a liotliouse. These fumes of heat, 
which are common to the summer season of Japan, are 
said to be the source of much of the sickness of the 
country. 

I am continually reminded of the small size of the 
natives, for all their door\va3^s are made for men of 
their own stature, and I am constantly bumping my 
head as I enter the inns, as I never remember this 
important fact until too late. After a good and boun- 
teous lunch of rice, fish, eggs, and tea and a restful nap, 
we leave, somewhat reluctantly, this delightful place, 
and at 2.15 p. m. say farewell to Wakamatsu, with a 
prospect of fair weather to the end of the da3''s jour- 
ne}'. All through the country on either side of tlie 
road are many unostentatious shrines and images of 
Buddha. Some of these stone shrines have no torii, 
others have one and often two placed before the sacred 
emblems. Small stone images, supposed to represent 
Buddha, are conspicuous upon the roadside. We not 
unfrequently see the devout natives kneeling before 
them in silent pra3^er. The group called Koshin, 
carved in wood or stone, is a common sight on the sides 
of the roads throughout the country. 

So uncertain is the weather in Japan that clouds have 
gathered heavily about us, and notwithstanding our 
hopes and fair prospects we are again in the midst of 
rain. But the tourist must be prepared for a drench- 



FROM BANGE TO SENDAI. 269 

iiig at any time. The country is prettier after leaving 
Wakaniatsu, and the many natives that we meet on the 
way attract and interest us. Volumes might be writ- 
ten about these charming, odd, and happ}^ people. 

Takinozawa Mountain and Pass are before us. The 
road here is very rough, composed apparently of ruts 
and rocks. Although but recently made the heavy 
rains have made travel hard in many places. We have 
three men to each wagon, and yet it is with great difii- 
cult\^ that we reach the top of the mountain. We are 
frequently obliged to walk considerable distances in 
consequence of bad breaks in the road. 

We are now more than seven hundred feet above the 
level of the sea, and have a beautiful view of Waka- 
matsu, with its twenty thousand inhabitants, and the 
country for miles around. Although it is raining fast 
we halt here to feast our eyes upon this exquisite pic- 
ture of plain and mountain. Having descended by 
the Takinozawa Pass we climb by the Kutsukaka Pass 
to the top of the mountain of the same name. Kutsu 
means horseshoe, and kaka hanging mountain. From 
this height we have another magnificent view of the 
lofty peaks, O-Bandai san among the rest. O means 
great, and Bandai is the name of the province. 

We soon reach the village of Tonokuchi, and stop at 
the Ingarishi inn. The inns in these districts are gen- 
erally small and the accommodations limited, and it is 



270 VACATION DAYvS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

not uncommon for eight or ten men and women to be 
lodged in one room, in size about ten feet square. i\s 
there are no beds these people will huddle together, and 
never think of complaining of their quarters. 

Since leaving Bauge this morning we have made but 
nineteeu miles, owing to delays and the rough roads of 
the mountain passes. 

To-morrow we must rise at five o'clock, to take the 
six o'clock steamer for an hour's ride ou the beautiful 
Lake Inawashiro. 

I awake at five o'clock to hear the rain still beating 
on the roof of the inn. This is a great disappointment, 
as during the past few days my camera has been use- 
less in consequence of the bad weather; and I determine 
not to start out in the rain as neither clothiug nor shoes 
will dry in this damp atmosphere. At all tlie inns and 
cottages they cook by charcoal fires placed in pits, so 
there is no hope save in the sun. 

Before breakfast I have a hot bath in an immaculate 
tub, in water almost at boiling point. The young girl 
who attends me comes in and asks in pantomime if 
there is anything she can bring me. I assure her that 
I have all that I need, and she withdraws. This hot 
bath is a great comfort, counteractiug, as it does, the 
chilling effects of this damp weather. We have a good 
Japanese breakfast, served by several Neisans with will- 
ing hands and smiling faces. 



FROM BANGE TO SENDAI. 271 

The rain subsides in time for us to take the nine 
o'clock steamer, so, gathering our things together and 
packing our wet clothes, we say good-bye to the land- 
lady and her little maids. When one leaves an inn, 
especially a foreigner, it is customary for the landlady 
and her entire household to come to the door and bid 
him farewell, with a cordial invitation to return. 

The small steamer is not much more than a tub, and 
really seems unsafe for passengers upon such a body of 
water; however, as adventure seems to be in the very 
atmosphere we breathe, we shut our eyes to the danger, 
and trust in Providence to see us safely through. A 
shrill whistle announces the time for departure, and we 
leave the village of Tonokuchi without excitement or 
commotion of any kind. We take a diagonal course 
across the lake to the village of Yamagata, a distance 
of about eight miles. 

This lake is a picturesque body of water, nearl}^ 
square in shape and probably ten miles each way. It 
is surrounded by mountains. We can distinguish 
0-Bandai and Ko-Bandai from the steamer's deck. 
The water is roughened by the rain and wind, and 
our little tub rides much as an eggshell on the ocean. 
So much spray flies over us that, at the captain's invi- 
tation, my guide and I seek shelter in his cabin. 

I am told that large quantities of fisli are caught in 
these waters. We expected, on arriving at Yamagata, 



272 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

to take jiiirikislias and proceed directly to Alotomiya, 
a distance of seven ri, or eighteen miles, but we learn 
that there are no jinrikishas in the place. This is a 
dilemma. I ask the guide if there is no " runner " 
who can engage wagons from the neighboring village ? 
He replies that there are no wagons in any of the vil- 
lages near by. 

While we are considering the situation, I espy a very 
old and dilapidated wagon, springless, and with seats of 
strong, uncovered boards. *' What is this ?" I inquire. 
" Perhaps we can hire it, if there are horses or anything 
to draw it." We learn that this is the "regular" stage 
coach, Heaven save the mark ! which runs between 
Yamagata and Motomiya, and are only too glad to find 
anything running between these towns that will save us 
the long hard tramp with our own legs. We engage 
two seats and room for our baggage in this unattractive 
vehicle. We are the only passengers. I wonder if 
those who have ridden in this coach have died from the 
effects of " anti-express." 

We start in an hour, but the delay does not concern 
us, for we are not in condition to foot it. While wait- 
ing, I wonder what kind of horses will be attached to 
this rickety affair, but say to myself, " Rest th}^ soul 
in peace. All will be shown thee in good time." x\t the 
end of an hour the steeds appear. I can hardly believe 
my eyes. Tliese poor, crippled, lank, and lifeless 



FROM BANGE TO SENDAI„ 273 

creatures 1 At first I laugh aud tlieu I sigh ; theu I am 
augry at such cruelty to horses. But, alas ! I aui uot in 
the " States," aud cannot hand the poor animals over to 
our society to be shot and turned into buttons, gloves, etc. 
The ancient harness has seen much rain, and become 
green with mold, as the only washings that horses, har- 
ness, or wagon ever receive are from the clouds above. 
Well, we must make up our minds either to go by this 
stage or walk with our heavy baggage. Of the two 
evils we choose the least, as we suppose, and set out by 
the coach. 

I anticipate a great shaking up in this cumbersome, 
springless old wagon, with the roads in the wretched 
condition left by the recent storuis, and groan to think 
of nearly eighteen miles of misery. We start, not 
swiftly, but step by step, at a gait so slow that at times 
it requires close attention to know whether we are going 
or standing still. Then at a sudden lurch over a rock 
or down a hollow, how we bounce about ! Aly head 
strikes the top of the wagon many times, and I f^ill 
back into the seat or into the lap of my guide, wonder- 
ing if the next time I am to take a " header " through 
the torn curtains or out by the door. 

We keep up such a constant laughter that our driver, 
a young lad dressed in a coat and hat, thinking some- 
thing is the matter, asks the guide what is wrong, ap- 
parently unconscious of our mishaps, and considering 
18 



274 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

the turnout up to date, and quite the proper thing. At 
one dreadful rut I really am thrown through the door. 
Now, with slow but sure steps, we are wending our way 
through the Nakayama Pass, which is very picturesque, 
with trees along its mountain walls. The ascent is 
one ri, and the descent two ri, or about five miles. 
Going down, at a soft and bad part of the road, where 
the mountain is steep, whether from a caprice of the 
horses, or the driver getting his lines entangled, this 
antediluvian rig very nearly topples over the precipice. 
The danger is such that the guide and I leap from the 
coach. 

When the horses are stopped the stage stands on the 
extreme edge of the rock, at an angle of some forty-five 
degrees. It is no joke, I can assure 3^ou ! We right 
the wagon and go on. 

It now begins to rain, and the air grows disagreeably 
chill}^ 

The roads in this section are the worst one can im- 
agine. It would be impossible for a jinrikisha to travel 
over this one. We continue to pitch and bounce until 
I have a severe headache, besides pains in other regions. 
I must hold on tightly to prevent myself from being 
thrown from the wagon. 

The country is unattractive, save in the villages 
through which we pass, where something of interest is 
always to be seen. 



FROM BANGE TO SENDAI. 275 

Again we are in danger of being thrown into a 
ravine ; this time thirty feet deep, and a second time the 
guide and I jump out. The driver, however, is quite 
unconcerned, and with a smile, a jerk, and a nod, 
clambers back to his seat, and we go on peacefully, 
though roughly. 

At last, by the grace of heaven, we arrive, full of 
pains and aches, at Motomiya Station in time to take 
the 2.57 P. M. train to Sendai, having been four hours 
and one-half coming eighteen miles. At the station we 
learn that the bridges are washed away, and the rail- 
road damaged as far as Aomori ; also, that no southern 
trains from Tokyo had arrived at this station since 
the night before last, as the bridges on that section of 
the road are also unsafe. A pleasant state of affairs, 
truly I And my northern trip to Aomori and Yezo in 
jeopardy. 

Rain has been falling in northern Japan since 
the twenty-first of Jul}^, and the largest freshet ever 
known in this district is engaging the attention of the 
inhabitants, especially farmers and railroad men. 
People of all trades are greatly alarmed at the present 
conditions. 

This is the topic of conversation everywhere. The 
wagon roads are also impassable farther north, and it is 
feared that there is heav}^ loss in the destruction of rice 
crops and propert}^ in general. 



276 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

While I am waiting for the train, the people gather 
abont me in large nnmbers, gazing intently in my 
face and watching every movement, nntil this kind of 
a free exhibition becomes too much for me, and I re- 
quest the station master, through my guide, to allow 
me to enter the enclosure, hoping there to escape the 
curious throng. But even here I am not free from 
their inquisitive stares. The}^ stretch their necks, and 
some of them climb on the fence, smiling at ni}^ oddi- 
ties, or standing spellbounci at the strange sight. What 
a relief to see the train approaching to relieve me from 
my very annoying position. We take second-class 
tickets to Sendai. The third-class compartments are 
crowded with natives, and the comforts are limited, be- 
sides the freedom of the costumes is not pleasant to 
one who has enjoyed the American system of travel- 
ing. There are no conveniences on the third-class cars, 
while nian3^ of the second-class cars have toilet rooms. 

Traveling through Japan one sees rice growing 
ever^^where, especially in the northern central districts. 
Of course there are other products, but it is rare to find 
an3^thing in large quantities except the mulberry. 
There is little to attract the eye along this line. The 
countr}^ is monotonous. As we approach Fukushima 
we see on our left Azumasan, which was the scene of 
an eruption four years ago. W^e pass small bridges 
that have been swept from their places by the recent 



FROM BANGE TO SENDAI. 277 

freshet. Roads and fields are in many places com- 
pletely submerged. There are two long tunnels be- 
tween Motomiya and Sendai. Bits of pretty scenery 
occasionally appear, but taking it altogether the jour- 
ney is tedious. 

In lack of something better I fill in the time by 
enumerating the customs of Japan, which are in direct 
contrast to ours in America. Among these are the fol- 
lowing : 

America. Japan. 

We eat with knives and forks. The}^ with chopsticks. 

We eat soup first. They last. 

We wTite with pen and ink. They wath brush and paint. 

Our people are addicted to kissing. In Japan they never kiss. 

Our hoUvSes are tall. Theirs are of one and two stories. 

We have smoking cars. They smoke in all their cars. 
Our women are generally young 

at forty. Theirs are old at twenty-five. 

Our babies are carried in the arms. Theirs upon the back. 

Our men smoke large pipes. There, men and women smoke 

small pipes. 

We use small theatre tickets of The3' large wooden tickets. 

pasteboard. 

We wear hats. They go hatless. 

We wear leather shoes which touch They wooden vshoes raised some 

the ground. four inches from the ground. 

Our purchases are wrapped in paper They invariably have the name of 

with the name of the firm outside. the firm inside. 

AVe pass vehicles and persons on They on the left. 

the right. 

yVe eat fish cooked. They generally eat it raw. 



278 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



We wear shoes indoors. 

W^e shake hands upon meeting or 
parting with friends. 

Our clothing generally fits closely. 

We wear jewelry. 

Our trees are tall. 

We use handkerchiefs made of 
linen. 

W^e use coal for heating, etc. 

Our writing-paper is somewhat 
square. 

We frequently ride in carriages. 

Our sleeping rooms are dark. 

We drink tea from large cups. 

We sit upon chairs. 

Our rooms are elaborately fur- 
nished. 

Our carpenters plane from them. 

We sleep on beds raised from the 
floor. 

We write from left to right. 

We write across the page. 

The front of our book is the back 
of theirs. 

We use horses. 



They either go barefooted, or wear 

a covering called a " tabi." 
They onl}- bow. 

Theirs loosely. 
The}^ wear none. 
Theirs are small. 
Theirs are made of paper. 

They burn wood. 

Theirs very long and narrow. 

The\- mostly walk. 

Theirs are lighted by lanterns. 

The}' from small ones. 

They upon the floor. 

Theirs are bare and unfurnished. 

Theirs towards themselves. 
The}' sleep on mattresses upon the 

floor. 
They from right to left. 
They up and down. 



They men. 



Many more sucli comparison.s could be made, but 
these are sufficient to give an idea of the strange man- 
ners and customs of the people in this far-off country. 
The ladies of Japan dress elaborately and with expen- 
sive decorations of silk and gold embroideries, but 
these exq^uisite pieces of needlework are never exposed 



FROM BANGE TO SENDAI. 279 

to public view. They are all on the inside of the gar- 
ments. When the dress is taken off and hung up this 
beautiful lining is visible, but at no other time. The 
outside of the dresses are plain and of inexpensive 
material. This is another noteworthy contrast to the 
fashion in America, as well as in most civilized coun- 
tries. 

I have seen a number of these profusely decorated 
and costly garments, whose wonderful embroideries are 
completely concealed from the eyes of the world. 

Flies, mosquitoes, and fleas are the only things that 
seem to be common to both countries, and to have the 
same manner of carrying on their unpopular mission. 

It is hardly necessary to say that Japanese shoes are 
unlike ours. Many different shapes and kinds are 
worn. The most common are the Cata, made of wood ; 
the Zori, made of plaited straw, and the Waraji, plaited 
of common straw and tied over the ankle by strings of 
straw. 

The railroad tracks in Japan are generally three and 
one-half feet from rail to rail. 



FLOOD AND FRESHET, 

Sendai — An American room — A terrible night — Bridges swept away 
— We abandon the northern trip — Yaita — Rivers vStill rising — Impassa- 
ble roads — A long, wet walk— Jinrikishas at last — Crowded inns — A 
hopeless prospect — Disease among the natives — Crossing the Kinu- 
gawa — In the Rapids — Coolie-back — The Fnrnssata — Ravages of the 
storm — Holding the train— En route for Nikko. 

We reacli Sendai at half-past seven this evening, 
having traveled to-day by steamboat, stage, train, and 
jinrikisha, and I can assure you we are tired and sore, 
especiall}^ so from the hard usage of the stage. We go 
directl}^ to the Alatsu Hotel, a European (Japanese) 
hotel, from which ma^^ the fates preserve me in the 
future ! I ask the landlord to show me an " Ameri- 
can " or " European " room. I would like some of these 
architects who plan European or American rooms in 
Japanese inns supposed to possess all the comforts of 
a modern home, to have one glance into a genuine 
American or European apartment. They seem to 
think, also, that if a room has a bed with four legs, re- 
gardless of springs or blankets, that it is in modern 
style, and with two frail and rickety chairs and a can- 
dle in a candlestick upon the table, 3'ou have all the 
comforts of a Western home. In this room there are no 
280 



FLOOD AND FRESHET. 28 1 

carpets, curtains, or shades ; no paper on the wall, and 
no furniture save that which I have mentioned. It is 
so unpleasant and unhomelike that I tell the innkeeper 
to take me to a Japanese apartment, where I feel more 
comfortable, because my surroundings are in keeping 
with the country and its people. My night experience 
here is a terrible one. The rain comes down in tor- 
rents, and with such violence that I cannot sleep. The 
wind blows furiously, and at three oVlock the house 
shakes so that I fear that nothing less than an earth- 
quake or a tidal wave has come upon us. 

I rise and dress, and as I sit upon the floor with a 
lighted cigar in my hand I make up my mind that if I 
am spared through the night I will bid farewell to Sen- 
dai early in the morning. The storm does not abate 
its violence until half-past seven in the morning. It is 
still raining, however, and the oldest inhabitants here 
declare, as those in other places, that in all their lives 
they have never known such violent and long-continued 
storms, and it is impossible to doubt their statements. 

Bridge after bridge is reported as washed away by the 
swollen waters of the rivers and lakes, and we learn 
that we cannot proceed farther north, for the railroad 
bridges and the road itself are so badly damaged that it 
is impossible for trains to pass north from this point; 
also that the bridges south of us have been swept away 
and the railroads badly damaged. Thus our retreat 



282 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN, 

from this place seems to be cut off north and southo 
There have been no trains from Tokyo to Sendai since 
last Wednesday. The telegraph wires are broken, and 
communication has ceased all over the island. I learn^ 
however, that a local train will leave here at ten o'clock, 
and proceed as far south as possible. 

In company with mau}^ anxious natives we bid fare= 
well to Sendai and step on board the train. This means 
that we have abandoned the northern route. It is a sad 
disappointment! But there would be weeks of delay 
while the railroad company is repairing its tracks and 
bridges, and travel might still be uncertain in conse- 
quence of continued storms. Our progress is slow on 
account of the serious condition of the tracks. The 
rivers we pass are much swollen, and small creeks have 
increased in size until they seem like rivers. At every 
station we observe great uneasiness and alarm, and 
although it is still raining, anxious groups ma}^ be seen 
ever\^\vhere, discussing the dangers that threaten them. 
I am much troubled, but try to make the best of the 
situation, and the guide and I cheer each other b}' re- 
counting our experiences over bridgeless torrents and 
througli rough mountain passes. 

I learn this morning that the Kitakami-gawa, only a 
short distance from Sendai, has risen eighteen feet and 
six inches in the past two days. The fields and 
portions of the wagon roads are inundated, and in 



FLOOD AND FRESHET. 283 

some of the villages through which we pass the first 
floors of the cottages are submerged, compelling the in- 
habitants to seek other quarters, in many cases pro- 
vided by the police officials. There are no indications 
of clearing weather. The Kinugawa has risen twenty 
feet, the Akaborigawa, seventeen feet, and most of the 
other rivers are fully fourteen feet above their normal 
tide-mark. 

We reach Yaita at ten o'clock in the evening, having 
been twelve hours on the road. Here we learn that our 
train can go no farther, as the tracks have been washed 
away in many places, and to add to our anxiety, it is 
announced that the heavy iron railroad bridge crossing 
the Kinugawa has fallen at one end. This is the last 
straw. A delay of a few days during temporary repairs 
could be borne, but this break will require weeks of 
labor ere the bridge can be fit for travel. 

We try to secure jinrikishas to take us to the river, 
hoping to cross by sampans before it is too late. No 
wagons are available, as there are only five in the place, 
and they were engaged yesterday. Our only course is 
to walk to Furuta Station, a distance of thirteen Japa- 
nese miles. Japanese distances are generally reckoned 
as in Ireland : so many miles and a bit ; the " bit " may 
be any length, from one mile to twenty. 

It is doubtful whether we can cross the river. A 
heavy steel cable has been stretched over it, and to this 



284 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

boats are fastened for foot-passengers, but the latest 
reports are that cable and boats are likely to separate at 
any minute, as the river is a raging torrent. 

We go to the nearest inn, and I retire to bed, trust- 
ing in a kind Providence to help us out. It is eleven 
o'clock, and the rain is beating on the roof. M}^ guide 
knocks on the screen door, and sa^'S that he has hired 
four coolies to carry our baggage in the morning, 
but that we will be obliged to walk. The highway 
from Yalta to Nagakubo is in many places wholly sub- 
merged, so we will have the pleasure of not only walk- 
ing, but wading through water waist-high» 

It is a time of great excitement ! The only things 
I fear are tidal waves and earthquakes, I pass a 
wakeful and anxious night. The many da3\s of ex- 
posure to the elements, combined with fatigue, have 
resulted in a bad cold and a sore throat, I doctor the 
guide and m^^self as well as I can. 

We rise at five in the morning to hear the latest re- 
ports on the condition of river, road, and railway. 
Yes, we must walk. No wagons can be hired at any 
price. The few horses, used for farming purposes, 
have all been secured to carry people to Nagakubo. I 
envelop myself in my waterproof, with an oiled canvas 
wrapped about my legs, and raising my umbrella to 
protect myself as far as may be from the violence of 
the rain, step out upon the flooded highway. We have 



FLOOD AND FRESHET. 285 

not gone far before I am thoroughly drenched, as my 
umbrella is of no use whatever, and my waterproof 
leaks badly. The water is ver^^ high, but I am thank- 
ful we are not compelled to swim. We walk along the 
railroad for many miles, and where the bridges have 
been washed away we cross by boat, or wade to the 
opposite side. It is a tedious, disagreeable journey. 
Wet to the skin, and chilled to the bones, I wonder when 
the hardships of this trip will cease. 

On we go, passing many natives, men, women and 
children, all walking except a few women who have 
been fortunate enough to secure horses. Two or three 
women are on one horse, riding man fashion and with- 
out a saddle. They present an odd picture, and were 
it not for the rain I would like to stop and photograph 
some of the scenes along the wa3\ After a long weari- 
some journey we reach the village of Nagakubo. Here 
we endeavor to secure jinrikishas to take us to Ujii, 
four miles distant, but none are to be had, so we direct 
our coolies to go ahead with the baggage and engage 
rooms for the guide and myself at the inn in the vil- 
lage, and if possible to send us two jinrikishas. We 
wait patiently for more than an hour, during v;hich 
time I am surrounded b^^ about sixty natives who watch 
every movement, and laugh heartily if I ^^awn or 
sneeze. I light ni}^ pipe, then write down some notes, 
they watching with the greatest interest. Only one 



286 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

who has passed through such an ordeal can understand 
my feelings at thus being the centre of a crowd of 
curious men, women, and children. I tell the guide we 
had better walk on, although we have several parcels 
and are fatigued with the long tramp in our lieav}^ wet 
clothinof. The rain still comes in bucketfuls. The 
crowd opens to let us pass, and as I look back I see 
them still standing in the road gazing after me. 

We have not gone more than a mile when we see 
two jinrikisha men with empty wagons running towards 
us. Thank Providence ! They are sent b}^ our coolies. 
We jump in and enjo}^ a much-needed rest. The men 
are obliged to walk in consequence of the condition of 
the roads, thus we make but slow progress, with such 
violent jolting that if we do not hold on tightly we are 
in great danger of being pitched out into the mud. In 
the course of time we arrive at Ujii, where we find onl}^ 
second-rate accommodations, but are grateful for any 
shelter at all. The inns in all these villages are filled 
to overflowing with native pilgrims and other travelers. 
At Yaita, where we slept last night, the inn was so full 
that as many as eight men and women were packed 
together in small rooms, nine feet by ten in size. This 
is repeated in this hotel. The police stations through- 
out the district are also providing accommodations for 
the wayfarers. At times it is difficult to obtain even 
inferior rooms. As we are wet and chilly I administer 



FLOOD AND FRESHET. 287 

a full dose of quiuiue and sake to the guide and 
myself. 

Our first business, before changing our wet clothing, 
is to ascertain the prospect of crossing the Kinugawa 
to-night. Our landlord says the railroad bridge is in 
such a weakened condition that not even foot-passen- 
gers are allowed to go over it, and that the temporar3^ 
bridge of boats was washed away this morning. 

I am not satisfied with this hopeless report, and re- 
quest the guide to go to the police station and obtain 
authentic information. He confirms the landlord's 
statement. 

Still unwilling to give up hope, I suggest that we 
cross the river in a boat, with a cable stretched over 
both ends, and pulled b}^ men stationed on the banks. 
But I am told that last night a man was so determined 
to cross this raging flood that he attempted it with a 
single boat and some oarsmen. No sooner did the boat 
strike the rapids than it was carried swiftl}^ down the 
current, threatening every moment to capsize ; finally it 
turned over, and its occupants were given up as 
drowned. However, the}^ were found this morning, 
down the river, three miles from where the}^ started, 
saved only b}^ a miracle. The river rose six feet last 
night. 

Since every plan fails, I resign m3^self to remaining 
here over-night, hoping to make an early start to- 



288 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

morrow, and try to cross the river at a point five miles 
from here, and if we succeed, to take jinrikishas and 
ride fifteen miles to Utsu-No-Miya, where we can take 
the train for Nikko. While I am writing:, the iiuide 
comes to sa^^ that another break is reported in the rail- 
road between Utsu-No-Miya and Nikko. However, I 
can cross but one bridge of trouble at once, and the 
latter emergency will find its corresponding action. 

The rain has ceased, the wind is blowing, and heavily 
laden clouds are hastening across the sk}^ 

The first thing a Japanese does after making arrange- 
ments to stay at an inn over-night is to remove his 
heavy clothing, and put on a light kimono, with a 
silken sash. I also invariabl\^ follow this custom when 
traveling in this countr3^ Tea is brought to ni}^ room, 
and with a cigarette, I am happy and comfortable, shut- 
ting out for a time the troubles which perplex me. 

I have seen much disease in Japan. This country 
is noted for the cleanliness of its people, but with all 
their washing they are iinable to cleanse themselves 
from this inheritance. In out-of-the-wa}^ places, where 
clothing is scant, the half-naked bodies of the natives 
reveal sores and ill-health. In the cities this is not so 
evident, as more clothing is worn than in the countr}^ 
towns and villages. I carr}^ ni}^ own drinking-cup, and 
wash from a good-sized basin that has been scoured 
until it shines like gold. We are up at five in the 



FLOOD AND FRESHET. 289 

morning, and learn tliat the prospect for crossing the 
Kinngawa in large sampans is favorable. 

My gnide secnred three jinrikishas last night, and at 
6.15 this morning they are at the door. While waiting 
for the gnide I am stared at b}- a large crowd. One 
yonng woman, looking at me from her doorwa}^, is ab- 
solntely naked, and I also stare at her in wonder. We 
each, no donbt, think what a qneer creatnre the other is. 
As we leave the village the snn peeps throngh the 
clonds, and the air is like that of a spring morning. I 
dare not think how long this will last, for heavy clouds 
are even now grouping themselves on the horizon. 

The road from Ujii to the Kinngawa is in good order, 
and our men run the entire distance of five miles with- 
out stopping. In Japan a foot measures four inches 
more than our standard feet, consequently their miles 
are longer in proportion. 

In a short time we reach the river bank, where we 
find assembled fully a hundred natives, men, women, 
and children, who also are waiting to cross. Among 
these is a Japanese officer of high rank, who served in 
the Japanese-Chinese war. We make his acquaintance, 
and he formally presents to me his card, upon which I 
hand him mine. Much pleasant conversation follows, 
with the guide as interpreter. His card bears the fol- 
lowing name and title: " S. Lamejima, Le Colonel, 
Chef d'Etat, Major de la Garde Imperial." He wishes 
19 



290 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

me success in my journey tlirougli Japan, and regrets 
that I have had such unpleasant experiences during the 
past few weeks. 

The efforts of my guide to have the three jinrikishas 
and their men carried over the river in the large sam- 
pan cause considerable delay. The owners of the boat 
declare that it will capsize with such a weight, and that 
it would be a dangerous experiment to attempt it. 
However, after much bargaining and persuasive argu- 
ments, the wagons, men, baggage, and ourselves are 
snugly settled in the bottom of the boat. 

The river is wild and angr}^ and the current swift. 
Strong men steer the boat with long bamboo poles as 
we shoot out into the rapids. How we twist and turn ! 
Sometimes it seems that we must surel}^ capsize and 
everything be lost, but these strong armed men, with 
nerve and skill, keep the boat steadfast to its course. The 
excitement is at its height when we are in the middle of 
the stream, where the current is deepest and the waters 
form a whirlpool, foaming and threatening to engulf 
us as the}^ rush madly over us, drenching us to the 
skin. After a severe struggle, lasting nearly a half- 
hour, we reach the other side, and find our boat aground 
in three feet of water. 

Our next experience is being carried '' pick-a-pack " 
by coolies to dry land, which is a sort of an island. Our 
wagons and baggage are also brought to shore in safety. 



FLOOD AND FRKSHKT. 29I 

We walk about a quarter of a mile over mud and 
stones till we come to a swollen stream, the Furussata, 
generally a small and unpretentious current, now a 
rapid river enlarged by the recent rains. We cross it 
by another large boat. While waiting on the bank I 
perceive, not far away, the wreck of the large railroad 
bridge which spanned this water only a short time ago. 
In ten minutes we are safely landed, though over shoe- 
tops in mud. The river has subsided six or eight feet 
since ^^esterday, otherwise we would be unable to cross 
it to-day. There has been great loss of life and prop- 
erty at this point. Dozens of cottages have been 
swept away by the flood in the last few days. Only 
yesterday a house in the neighborhood was washed 
away, and the whole faniil}^ of five persons drowned. 
The inhabitants sa}^ that this river has not been so swol- 
len for sixty years. We walk half a mile on solid 
ground, then resume our jinrikishas, bid the courteous 
Japanese officer farewell, and start off on a six-mile 
ride to Utsu-No-Miya Station, arriving at 10.10 A. M., 
just as the bell rings for the train to start for Nikko. 
M}^ guide unselfishly begs me to enter the train and 
go on to Nikko, while he will await the arrival of the 
jinrikisha with our baggage and follow on the 12.30 
train. But I tell him I will not desert him at the last 
minute ; we will both wait. He urges me repeatedly, 
and finding me persistent in my refusal asks the guard 



292 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

if he cannot hold the train a few minutes till the men 
appear. The obliging guard consents to wait ten 
minutes, saying that beyond that he dare not dela}^ the 
train. 

The greatest interest is manifested by all the rail- 
road officials in the arriv^al of our jinrikisha. Some of 
the passengers, wondering what is wrong, get out and 
ask questions. A crowd quickl}^ gathers at the station 
and around me. Minutes pass and no sign of the 
jinrikisha. Finally, when it is within two minutes 
of starting time the men and wagon are seen in the 
distance. A shout of joy goes up, and a half-dozen 
men from the station run at the top of their speed to 
meet the tardy jinrikisha, and all together fairly make 
it fly to the station. It is exactly twent}^ minutes past 
ten when the baggage is placed on board the train. 
Another glad shout fills the air. I bow and smile and 
try to thank the people for their good-will, and the}^ 
bow and bow, and now we are steaming along in com- 
fortable cars to Nikko. I think often of this incident, 
as well as of mau}^ other kindnesses shown to us b}^ 
these good-natured people, and wonder would an Amer- 
ican train wait a traveler's convenience in any State in 
our Union ? 

In Japan I can honestly say that whether we ask 
courtesies of the railroad or police officers, innkeepers 
or jinrikisha men, we have been treated with a uniform 



FLOOD AND FRESHETo 293 

kindness that is worthy of note. We arrive safely 
after a short journe}^, and reach the Nikko Hotel in 
time for a late tiffin. Few events of importance have 
transpired during our absence. The little stream, the 
Daiya-gawa, near the hotel, has become a wild torrent, 
whose pitching and tossing makes a noise like that of 
a miniature Niagara. The main wagon road bordering 
the stream is so washed in places that it is impossible 
to reach the hotel by jinrikisha. Great landslides are 
visible on the mountain sides, and cascades have found 
their way into the hollows, and fallen trees and exposed 
stumps suggest that a battle has been fought here- 
about. And truly there has — a fierce battle of the ele- 
ments. I am informed that a half a dozen or more 
persons have been drowned in this neighborhood in the 
floods of the past few days. 



TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 

We leave Nikko — Nakada — Tokyo by night — Novel sights — A fenc- 
ing school — Asakusa Park — Shiba Temple — Cherry banks of Koganei 
— Master wrestler — Carr^'ing a god — Tokaido— Valley of the Sakawa- 
gawa^Gotemba — Fuj i yania — Image of Kwannon — Nagoy a — Shinachu 
Hotel — Man}^ merchants— Great earthquake of 1891 — Husking rice 
boats — Cormorant fishing— Ibuki-yama — I^ake Biwa — Vestiges of the 
storm. 

After a rest of a couple of days we take up our 
regular plau of travel, proposiug to leave here to-mor- 
row for Tok3^o. It has been raiuiug iu Nikko for the 
past five days, aud is still raining. We learn that the 
railroad between Nikko and Tokyo is badly washed, 
and in some places covered with water to a depth of ten 
or twelve feet, and that passengers to the latter city are 
conveyed b}^ boat over the breaks in the road and across 
the rice fields to places of safety ; also that we can go 
to Tok3^o in ten hours, three of which are by boat. A 
boat capsized this morning and its occupants were 
thrown out, but none of them were drowned. We are 
hoping for more favorable reports, but will, in any case, 
attempt to reach Tokyo to-morrow by the early train » 
There are many other visitors in Nikko and the neigh- 
borhood who are also anxious to be in Tokyo to-mor= 
row, and will take the train with us. 
294 



TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 295 

We rise early and find the sun shining brightly, as 
if to give us a good send-off. We leave Nikko by the 
7.30 train. The countr}^ around the city, seen upon a 
clear da}^, is charming. The lofty mountains are cov- 
ered with verdure, and the Daiya-gawa, in all her 
moods, is picturesque. We arrive at Utsu-No-Miya 
Station, where we change cars, and in about twenty 
minutes take another train, which carries us to the vil- 
lage of Nakada. We can go no farther by train, for 
although the water is subsiding in other places the 
tracks here are under three or four feet. Large sam- 
pans await us, and taking our places in one of these, 
Avith other passengers, we are sculled to a temporar^^ 
station provided by the railroad company. 

We have been rowing over a submerged village, 
where the houses are under twenty feet of water. The 
temporar}^ station is made of canvas stretched over long 
poles to protect us from the sun. Benches are here, 
made of rough boards. There are full}^ four hundred 
people here awaiting the arrival of the train. Having 
brought a lunch from the hotel we now do it ample 
justice. The native travelers also eat their meal of 
rice and tea. 

We have waited here since 11.45 ^^i^ morning, and 
it is two o'clock before a shrill whistle announces the 
approaching train, and an engine draws a long line of 
empty passenger coaches up beside the station. Then 



296 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

follows a comical sight ! There is a great scramble 
for the cars. Some of the people, in their eagerness 
actually jump through the windows. How I would 
like to photograph the picture! And now they are 
all in and we are off, reall}- off, for Tokyo. We cross 
the Tone-gawa on a fine iron bridge, which was, several 
da3\s ago, under thirteen feet of water. 

We reach Tokyo without further event, and go to the 
Imperial Hotel. In the evening we take jinrikishas 
and ride about the city. It is a beautiful sight ; more 
like a dream cit}^ than one in real life. The odd-look- 
ing buildings, with hundreds of lighted lanterns 
hanging before them, and the throngs of pedestrians 
on the sidewalks are all so unlike anything we see at 
home, that we are filled with delight at ever}^ turn. 
In the midst of our enjoyment a sudden and severe 
shower compels us to make a hasty retreat to our 
hotel. 

We are up bright and early this morning, eat our 
breakfast, and are read}^ for the jinrikishas which our 
guide engaged for us last night. We go at a good 
pace, for we have two strong men to each of our wagons. 
We go first «^ to Kudan Park, where we visit the tem- 
ple of Shokonsha, also the museum, which is filled 
with interesting trophies of the late war with China. 
We then ride to Ueno Park. This is a very pretty 
place, with enormous artificial lakes, rockeries, cas- 



TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 



297 



cades, and shrubbery, and it is famous for its temples, 
tombs, and cherry trees. 

We have a very good lunch at the Foreign Hotel, the 
only one in this section and the first one of the kind 
built in Tok3^o. We then visit the Zoological Gardens 
close b}^, where we see the usual elephants, lions, 




The Contestants are Seated in a Small Room Ten Feet Square. 

tigers, monkeys, etc. The gardens are attractive but 
the number of animals is small. 

Having expressed a desire to see some good Japa- 
nese fencing, our guide surprises us b^- announcing 
that he has made arrangements for a special " bout " 
in one of the best fencing schools in Tok^^o. This 



2g8 VACx\TION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

news gives us great pleasure, and we soon find our= 
selves in the presence of the first master of this art in 
the city. The contestants are seated in a small room 
about ten feet square, waiting to be called to the arena. 
This arena is a space twenty feet by fort}^, with rough 
seats facing it and an awning overhead to protect us 




A Man and a Woman Fence with Swords, 

from the sun. Here we are entertained for an hour and 
a half. Japanese fencing is quite different from that 
taught in the Italian or French schools. 

Their manner of handling the sword is, however, 
dexterous, and would be effective in warfare. A man 
and a woman fence with swords, the honor of victory 



TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 299 

being won by the latter. Then a man with " pick and 
sling " competes with one with a sword, and vanquishes 
him. 

After all the exercises are over I am invited to enter 
the ring and show master and pupils how fencing is 
taught in America. They seem surprised at the dif- 
ference, and the master tries his skill against mine to 
the amusement of the spectators. The nimbleness 
and adroitness with which the Japanese fence is worthy 
of note. They are so quick and subtle. 

The following day we visit Aasakusa Park. The 
grounds of this park are very large, and hundreds of 
natives are strolling about within the enclosure. We 
learn that this is one of the festival da^^s, but even on 
ordinary occasions this is one of the liveliest places in 
Tokyo. Here may be seen rare shows, penny gaffs, 
performing monke3^s, cheap photographers, street 
artists, theatrical and other figures in painted wood or 
clay, and venders of toys and lollipops of all sorts. 
Here also are the Pagoda and the great bell tower, in 
which the bell, which is heard all over the city, is rung 
at intervals. The interior of Aasakusa Temple is well 
worth a visit. This temple is dedicated to Kwannon, 
and a fabulous antiquity is claimed for the image 
worshiped here which, it is said, was drawn up in a 
fishing net on the neighboring coast by an exiled noble- 
man in the early part of the sixth century. The won- 



300 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

derful image is never seen, but it is supposed to be 
only an inch and three-quarters in height. The dis- 
proportion between the size of the image and the vast- 
ness of the temple has occasioned much remark. 

The temples of Shiba are among the chief marvels 
of Japanese art, especially the highly ornamented gate 




Interior of Aasakusa Temple. 

called Ni-ten-Mon and the magnificent tomb of the 
second Shogun, which would repay au}^ one who has 
time to study them closely. Wonderful is the amount 
of labor bestowed upon the temples which are seen 
everywhere throughout Japan, and well may it be called 
the country of temples. Volumes could be written 



TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 



301 




W 
< 

u 
w 

H 

o 

w 

cu 

s 



TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 303 

upon the traditions, architecture, carving, and surround- 
ings of these masterpieces of art, and even then the 
subject would not be exhausted. In the Murray Hand- 
book of Japan may be found many traditional and his- 
toric records of the sacred edifices. 

It is late in the season for the Cherr}^ banks of Koga- 
nei, and there are onl}^ green leaves on the trees that 
form an avenue two miles and a half in length along 
the canal, but we can imagine the beautiful sight about 
the middle of April with the ga}^ crowds assembled 
under the pink and white blossoms. Now scores of 
natives are promenading along the banks of this little 
stream. The thoroughfare is so crowded that we are 
obliged to leave our wagons and walk. It is reall}- a 
great sight, this gathering of men, women, and children 
of all ranks and conditions. 

As we return to the cit}^ we visit the school of Nobu 
Shige Tago, Master Art Wrestler. Here in a room 
twelve feet square is given a private exhibition of wrest- 
ling by bo^^s from ten to sixteen 3^ears of age. The 
professor is a good teacher, judging b\' the skill of his 
pupils. These bo3^s are taught to become professional 
wrestlers. On our wa\^ back to the hotel we pass along 
the quays and by some dismal streets to the main thor- 
oughfare. 

Tokyo is a vast cit}^ and contains nearl}^ a million 
inhabitants. This afternoon we have a fine oppor- 



304 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

tuiiity of seeing the various tradesmen at work in their 
shops. While passing through one of the side streets 
we have a curious experience. We suddenl}^ come 
upon a crowd of man 3^ hundred people of both sexes 
and all ages, huddling together, screaming, and appar- 
ently fighting over a small temple borne on the 




Whilk Passing Through one of the Streets we Have a Curious 

Experience. 

shoulders and thrown from side to side in the struggle. 
As the crowd comes our way I am somewhat alarmed. 
Not wishing to be in the midst of a mob, I call the 
guide, and ask him what it means ? He tells us to get 
out of the wagons and stand aside until the frantic 



TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 305 

throng has passed. It seems that the natives fre- 
quently carry a small temple on their shoulders through 
the streets. The temple is supposed to contain a god, 
or rather the spirit of one, and if allowed to stop before 
a house the inhabitants of such house will be haunted 
by a demon. Consequently, all the people before whose 
houses the temple passes make every effort to prevent 
its stopping. Hence the dreadful scrabble, some of the 
people insisting that it shall stop, others madly deter- 
mined that it shall move on. 

At last we reach our spacious and elegant hotel, 
which is upon the European plan. The table is good, 
and meals are served in courses. How much could be 
written of Tokyo ! But much would always be left 
unsaid, for Japan is interesting at every turn, whether 
in city or country. 

We leave Tokyo for Yokohama to-day at 1.30 P. M., 
and arrive in two hours, going to the Grand Hotel ^ 
where we rest and plan a circular tour to Kyoto, Osaka, 
and Kobe, which we hope to accomplish in two or three 
weeks. 

At 8.30 this morning we leave Yokohama, expecting 

to reach Nagoya at half-past seven this evening, and go 

on to Kyoto to-morrow. The railroad in many places 

runs parallel with the old Tokaido, or highway between 

Tokyo and Kyoto, and from our car windows we see 

many jinrikishas and pedestrians on this road. The 
20 



3o6 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

word Tokaido signifies '' Eastern sea road," and was 
given to the road at an early date on account of its 
running along the seashore in an easterly direction 
from Kyoto, which, being the old historic capital, was 
regarded as the starting point. And even at the pres- 
ent time it seems as if all roads lead to KyotOo 




From our Car Windows we see ]\Ianv Pedestrians on this Road. 

From the seventeenth centur}^ onv/ard the Tokaido 
was traversed twice yearly by Daimyos coming -with 
gorgeous retinues to pay their respects to the Shogun 
at Yedo, and all the chief towns here, as well as on the 
other great highwa3^s of the empire, were provided with 
especially fine tea houses for their lordships' entertain- 



TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 307 

merit. The greater portion of the beautiful avenue of 
pine trees which lined this road still exists, and may 
be seen from the car windows. The railroad on which 
we are traveling was begun in 1872, and completed in 
1889. It reduces to seventeen hours the journey from 
Tokyo to Kyoto, formerly laboriously accomplished on 
foot in twelve or thirteen days. The day is charming, 
the air clear and cool. We are fortunate enough to 
have a first-class compartment to ourselves, and can 
make ourselves perfectly comfortable. 

After we leave Fuji-sawa the beautiful mountains of 
Hakone come into view, and many fine bits of scenery 
are visible from our car window. Now on the left the 
ocean spreads itself out to add a greater charm to the 
picture. At Kozu our road turns inland to avoid the 
Hakone Mountains. Here the country is wild and 
rugged. Now and then we see a queer looking little 
house of one story with a roof thatched with straw. 
The scenery is impressive, with an abundance of pic- 
turesque subjects that I shall not soon forget. At 
Yamakita we have an extra engine attached to carry us 
up an ascent of fifteen hundred feet to Gotemba Sta- 
tion, ^whicli is the highest point on this line. The 
mountains here are so numerous that we pass through 
tunnel after tunnel in rapid succession. I counted 
seven of them within a short time. 

At Sano we have a magnificent view of Fuji-yama in 



3o8 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 



all the glory of its majestic height, standing ont against 
a clondless sky, and presenting one of the grandest 
landscapes in the whole of Japan. This giant nionn- 
tain, the pride of every Japanese, can never be seen to 
greater advantage than to-day, as it rarely appears so 
perfectly free from clouds to its vcrv summit. There 




Frjl-VAMA IX ALL THE GlOKY OF ITS MAJESTIC HEIGHT. 

are many other lofty mountains quite close to our be- 
loved Fuji. It is a scene of wonderful beauty, almost 
too great for words. We gaze and gaze until it 
vanishes in the distance. I sit silent, thinking of the 
noble mountain, of the towering peak in its misty 
purple robe, heightened in color by the pale blue of the 



TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 309 

sk}^ at its back. The surrounding mountains too are 
blended in such perfect harmony of color! Yes, this 
is the greatest scene in Japan. 

Glimpses of the ocean and distant mountains come 
to us as the train winds serpent-like upon its course. 
When we stop at the stations the natives, as usual, 
stare, and call their friends to look at us. 

Between the stations of Washizu and To3'ohashi the 
guide-books tell you that a fine bronze image of Kwan- 
non, ten feet high, dating from the year 1765, can be 
seen j^erched on a pinnacle of rock. We strain our 
e3^es to see this relic, and at last perceive it, l^ut it is 
so small tliat one could easily pass b}^ in the train with- 
out noticing it. 

Between Yokohama and Nago^^a we cross several 
long and well-constructed iron bridges, spanning wide 
rivers. Tlie trains do not slacken their speed while 
going over them or in passing through the tunnels, 
and I think of the probability of accidents and our 
poor chances of escape in some of these narrow 
passes. After twelve hours of continuous travel 
we reach Nagoya at 8.30 p. ]\r., and ride at once to 
the Shinachu, a foreign hotel. While at supper we 
are surrounded by merchants, who offer various 
wares for sale. They all talk at once, making a 
perfect bedlam. Swords, wood and straw work, and 
cloisonne are spread out before us. These men have 



3IO VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

a peculiar habit of attacking the stranger as soon as 
he arrives. 

We find the town full of life and interest. Its popu- 
lation is one hundred and thirty thousand, and it is 
noted for its manufacture of porcelain, cloisonne, fans, 
and silks. As I write I can hear from an adjoining 
room the peculiar native drawl called singing, accom- 
panied by the samisen, pla37ed by some young girls. I 
have been in Japan long enough for these sounds to be 
quite familiar. 

We visit the odd stores and stroll about this flourish- 
ing provincial city. The castle, now closed to visitors, 
is still one of the wonders of Japan. It was built in 
t6io b}^ twenty great feudal lords, to serve as the resi- 
dence of leyasu's son. It is preserved by the imperial 
household department as a monument of historic inter- 
est. The golden dolphins on the top of the five-storied 
donjon can be seen glittering all over the cit3^ The 
Buddhist temple of Higashi Hongwanji is a wonderful 
structure, whose exterior and interior are equall}^ grand. 

We leave Nago^^a at 7.20 on a bright, beautiful morn- 
ing, and part also with the picturesque Tokaido, on our 
way to Kusatsu. The countr^^ presents only a succes- 
sion of rice plantations as far as the eye can see. Boys 
and girls are loitering along the road with their school- 
bags at their sides, and full of harmless pranks, quite 
amusing to the spectator. The thrifty farmer, in his 



'Tokyo and a circular tour. 31 i 

straw hat, is weeding or otherwise attending to his 
various fields with strangely shaped hoe and plough. 
Here is a group of workmen who appear like a bunch 
of mushrooms as the}' stoop over their tasks. 

Natives pass along with their long poles balanced at 
either end by baskets containing various goods. Others 
carry loads no less heavy on their heads. Alwa3-s in- 
teresting, tlie types of life to be seen on the public 
road are niau}^ and quaint. Off in the distance are tlie 
mountains dividing the provinces of Owari and Mino 
from those of Omi and Ise. We are entering the dis- 
trict of the great earthquake of October, 1891. i\t 
Ichinomiya most of the houses have been rebuilt and 
other damages repaired. The crowds of people walk- 
ing hither and thither surprise us. 

The liouses in tlie villages, the shrines and temples 
never k)se their interest for us. These shrines and 
temples are profusely decorated with flags and oflerings 
in celebration of the various festivals that are liekl 
upon certain days throughout the year in tlie different 
provinces. In man\^ of the cottage windows appear 
plants and flowers, offerings to the moon, which is full 
and brilliant at this time, x^s we cross the Kisogawa, 
which is lovely at ever}^ point, we observe a number of 
strange looking boats on the river, and learn that they 
are called " Husking Rice boats," and that their great 
water-wheels are turned by the force of the current. 



312 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Picturesque villages nestle at the foot of the mountains, 
making an unusually attractive scene, while scores of 
sampans move up and down, or across the stream, with 
huge cargoes and a single oarsman. On the mountain 
sides deep gulches, caused by landslides resulting from 
the earthquake, are visible. As we approach Gifu Sta- 
tion we perceive the devastation caused by the receut 
floods. Hundreds of acres of farm land are still under 
water, and men are at work upon the railroad, which 
was a short time since submerged. 

At Gifu the famous cormorant fishing is carried on 
in the summer months. Cormorants are raised b}^ the 
natives, and large quantities of fish are caught in this 
manner in the Nagara-gawa. The oul}- point of attrac- 
tion here is the mountain chain which we are approach- 
ing, and which opens to let our train pass through a 
narrow but exceedingly prett}^ valley. We have two 
engines now and are graduall}^ ascending. On our 
right, and towering far above the others, is the great 
Ibuki^^ama, king of all the mountains in this region, 
four thousand three hundred feet high, and bare of 
trees or other vegetation, but famous in the earl 3^ ages 
for its wealth of medicinal plants. It is cne of the 
" Seven High Mountains '^ of central Japan. At 
Nagaoka we have a fine view of this mountain, which 
stands out in bold relief with its many precipices and 
hollows distinctly outlined in the clear atmosphere. It 



TOKYO AND A CIRCULAR TOUR. 313 

is a magnificent spectacle. From Nagaoka we descend 
rapidl3^ coming into a full view of tlie mountains that 
border Lake Biwa on the north and south, but no por- 
tion of the lake is yet visible. On our right, after we 
have left Nagaoka miles behind us, Ibukiyama looms 
up again with a funnel-shaped cloud now about its 
summit that gives it the appearance of an active vol- 
cano. The coloring of the whole picture is exquisite. 

At Maibara we have our first glimpse of Lake Biwa. 
This beautiful bod}^ of water, reall}' the Lake of Omi, 
is generall}^ called Biwa on account of a fancied resem- 
blance in shape to a Chinese guitar. It lies three hun- 
dred and thirt3^-three feet above sea level, and is thirt}- 
six miles long and twelve wide. According to a legend 
long believed in b}^ the Japanese, Lake Biwa was pro- 
duced b}^ an earthquake in the 3'ear 286 B. c, while 
Mount Fuji rose up from the plain of Suruga at the same 
time. 

Everywhere around us are traces of the recent flood. 
Houses and shops are under four and five feet of water, 
and judging by marks quite plain, the water has been 
at least three feet higher. Small boats filled with 
people are being rowed from house to house and along 
the streets. Many of the houses have tumbled down, 
others are leaning and read}^ to fall. The railroad 
tracks have been repaired, but for miles the farm lands 
are entirely submerged. The country appears like a 



314 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN, 

great lake, and tlie scene is one of general devastation. 
In conseqnence of this innndation we leave train at 
Hikone, and take jinrikislias to a neighboring inn for 
tiffin. The tracks are completely snbnierged from Hi- 
kone to Baba Station, and trains can proceed no farther. 

At eleven o'clock our gnide informs us that the steam- 
boat company will run a special steamer to accommo- 
date the great number of passengers awaiting trans- 
portation, and we hastily gather our things together 
and engage jinrikislias to take us to the water's edge, 
which is now in the centre of the town. Here we hire 
a large sampan, and are rowed down the street between 
houses that are deserted and flooded with from eight to 
ten feet of water. Our hearts are filled with sympath}- 
for the poor villagers thus made homeless and penniless ; 
3'et ever}^ one we meet seems cheerful and happy. This 
is the natural disposition of the Japanese, no matter how 
great the trouble. 

After rowing for a half-hour we reach Lake Biwa, 
and espy in the distance the little steamer that is to 
take us to Otsu. Hundreds of passengers have gath- 
ered at this point, and as sampan after sampan arrives 
with its human freight we have a picture of national 
life, rarely seen even by the traveler in Japan. 



THE CAPITAL OF FORMER DAYS. 

A steamer on Lake Biwa— Kyoto— Shops— Queer combinations— The 
Daibutsu — Great bells of Japan— Punishing children — Burning the 
body— Advertisements of medicines— Servants of the gods — Supplicat- 
ing the gods — Selling children— Tsumi3a, Naka-gawa-Tokumon — 
Kiyomizu Temple— Junk trees — Tea culture -Kinkakuji—Chion-in — 
The 33,333 images of Kwannon — Temple of Inari. 

We wait and wait, btit there is no movement to take 
us on board. It is now nearly four o'clock, and the 
steamer was to start at half-past eleven or twelve. The 
traveler in Japan soon acquires the bad habit of never 
starting on schedule time. After being exposed to the 
hot ra3\s of the sun for a long time I direct our guide 
to have our boat rowed to the side of the steamer and 
request tlieni to take us on board. There are ftilly 
fotir hundred people waiting. I wonder how this little 
boat can hold them all ! Its capacity seems abotit two 
hundred. They come and come, and the decks sink 
lower and lower, till they almost touch the water. And 
we are to travel twenty miles with this heav}^ cargo ! 
Heaven help us . in case of an accident ! We are 
packed like sardines, with no life preservers, and only 
one lifeboat six feet long. We are truly '' between the 
devil and the deep sea." 

315 



3l6 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

However, we arrive safely at Otsu at eight o'clock in 
the evening, and are transferred from the steamer to 
land by sampans. This town also has been innndated, 
and temporary paths are made of wood. Taking jin= 
rikishas to Kyoto we arrive at the Yaami Hotel, tired 
and hnngry, and after enjoying a good snpperwe retire 




We Step on the Balcony Outside our Room and have our First 

View of Kyoto. 

to a comfortable room with clean beds, and close onr 
eyes with pra3^ers of thanksgiving that we have been 
carried safely throngh tlie perils of the day. Refreshed 
by a restfnl night we step on the balcony ontside onr 
room and have onr first view of Kyoto. What a charm 



THE CAPITAI, OF FORMER DAYS. 



317 



each new city has to our unaccustomed eyes ! The 
whole appearance resembles nothing that we have ever 
seen. Instead of the tall buildings of our American 
cities we see houses that are very low, and only a faint 
white curl of smoke will occasionally appear above a roof, 
Kyoto is a city of two hundred and fifty thousand 




We Visit the Various Manufacturing Estarlishments. 

inhabitants, and is famous for its pottery and porcelain, 
its fine embroideries, its velvets and brocades, its 
bronzes and its cloisonnes ; also for its many temples, 
for there are at least a hundred and fifty of no mean 
size in the city. We spend much of our time riding 
about the city and visiting the various manufacturing 



3l8 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

establisliments and the most noted temples. We are 
greatly entertained by the English signs that hang be- 
fore some of the shops. One reads, '' ]\Iilk and Gen- 
tlemen's Hats ;" another, '' Portrait Painter and 
Manila Cigars," and there are many more combinations 
just as odd. 

]\Iucli might be said of these temples, both ancient 
and modern, but I shall not attempt any description, 
but, with a few illustrations, will endeavor to give some 
idea of their grandeur, architectural style, and exquisite 
coloring. 

One of our first visits is to the Daibutsu, or Great 
Buddha. This idol consists only of a head and shoul- 
ders, but even thus, it reaches to the ceiling of the lofty 
hall in which it is kept. It is made of wood, and the 
head is gilded. It is fifty- eight feet high and forty- 
three feet across the shoulders. 

In a separate building, not far from the Great Buddha, 
hangs one of the great bells of Japan. This bell is of 
bronze, nine inches thick, nearly fourteen feet high and 
nine feet in diameter. It weighs more than sixty-three 
tons, and is larger t^ an that of Ta-chung-szu in Pekin, 
which has been considered the largest suspended bell 
in the world. Its companion in size is at Chion-in, 
also in Kyoto. For a few sen, given to the attendant, 
one may have the privilege of swinging a great log that 
is suspended beside the L.ll, which, swaying to and fro 



THE CAPITA I, OF FORMER DAYS. 319 

with mucli force, strikes the bell, producing a volu- 
minous musical sound which is heard all over the city. 
The pleasure of hearing these full, rich tones is so 
great that I repeat the operation many times. 

While traveling in Japan one is constantly and un- 
pleasantly compelled to notice the deep scars that dis- 
figure the bodies of the men, women, and children, as 
well as the numerous sores exposed to view. 

Burning the body is practiced throughout Japan for 
three different purposes. First, as a punishment ; sec- 
ondly, by jinrikisha men, wrestlers, and laborers to pro- 
duce strength where muscles are deficient ; and thirdly, 
as a cure for different kinds of disease. There are 
special doctors in the cities and in some of the country 
towns who make this their profession. Learning from 
the guide that there are several of these specialists in 
Kyoto, I visit one of the most prominent of these men. 

We find the doctor in his office and operating room. 
We sit upon the floor, and the guide states the object 
of our call. On the wall is a life-sized drawing of the 
human figure, inscribed with certain lines and dots, 
used to designate the corresponding olaces to be burned 
on the patient's body in cases of certain diseases or 
deficient muscle. On the floor in the middle of the 
room are two large iron pots filled with ashes upon 
which several sticks of red-hot charcoal rest. The day 
being rainy, the doctor regn s that no patients are 



320 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

present, but says lie will illustrate the process of burn- 
ing upon his own person. Suiting the action to the 
word he takes from a box beside him a small piece of 
sponge or punk, which he forms into a little p3^ramid, 
and places upon his bare arm. He lights the pyramid 
with a stick of cliarcoal, and it burns slowly until it 
reaches the flesh. The odor of burning flesh is quite 
perceptible ; the pyramid is allowed to remain on the 
arm until a deep hole is burned. This is the whole 
process. Places of sometimes an inch in diameter are 
burned in extreme cases. If a jinrikisha man, whose 
work requires muscle, lacks this in his legs or arms, he 
is burned on the part which is deficient, and expects 
thus to attain the necessar}^ strength of muscle, or, if 
a patient is afflicted with disease, as rheumatism for 
instance, he is burned on the part of the bod}^ indicated 
by the diagram on the wall. 

As we ride through the city streets we are much 
diverted by the odd advertisements upon the porches 
of some of the shops. A burned turtle of great size, 
also a burned cat, dog or snake appear in separate 
and conspicuous spots, indicating that medicine 
made from the powder of such animals and reptiles 
is sold within. Such medicines are extensively used 
throughout Japan. Think of taking cat, dog or 
snake powder for headache or d3^spepsia ! These, 
with a thousand other things, remind us constantly 



THE CAPITAL OF FORMER DAYS. 



321 



that we are many, many miles awa}' from onr own 
civilized homes. 

x\bout the varions temples are ever seen throngs of 
pilgrims carrying baskets of rice and otlier food to feed 
the servants of the gods, who are snpposed to dwell in 
little wooden bnildings made especially for them upon 




GiON Street, Kyoto. 

the temple gronnds. A hole is cnt in the side of the 

house only large enough to admit the hand. Rice, 

beans, and other food can be bought at the shops which 

line the neighboring streets. This food is thrown into 

the houses of the sacred servants, and the devotee claps 

his hands, and kneeling with bowed head prays for the 
21 



322 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

blessing he desires from this especial god. Quite a 
thriving business is done by the shops which sell the 
goods approved by the gods. Thus the gods keep the 
people, and the people keep the gods. Here are a 
mother and her pretty daughter making supplications 
to a god ; and to insure the granting of their petition 




Quite a Thriving Business is Done by the Shops. 

it is necessary for them to walk a hundred times around 
this small house. The older woman holds in her hand 
two hundred long narrow strips of paper, and each time 
they complete the circuit of the building she turns 
down two of the slips, one for her daughter and one for 
herself. 



THE CAPITAL OF FORMER DAYS. 323 

We visit some renowned cloisonne mannfactnrers, 
and observe their interesting but tedious process, which 
requires skill and training of the highest order. We 
see also the workers in Damatium, or gold and silver 
inlaid on steel. At my request the proprietor of one 
of these places presents me with a beautiful sample of 
the work just before completion, and still mounted on 
the workman's block. 

In all these factories we are amazed to see such diffi- 
cult work accomplished by small boys, some of them 
not over eight or ten years of age. We learn that it 
is still the custom in Japan for parents to sell their 
children to the tradesmen, receiving an annual income 
for their services ; and they sell not only the present 
generation, but frequently children yet unborn. 

Our guide arranges for a visit to " The Enclosure " 
and to its most fashionable inn, in which the demi- 
monde of the highest class dwell. The name of the 
inn is Tsumiya, Nakagawa-Tokumon, and we are in- 
formed that the officers of the Mikado are frequent 
guests here. The landlady allows us to go over the 
whole house. The rooms contain no furniture wdiatever, 
but are decorated with gorgeous and exquisitely embossed 
panels and embroidered draperies. They are named 
the " Fan Room," the " Peacock Room," the " Horse 
Room," etc., from the paintings with which walls and 
ceilings are lavishly adorned. 



324 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

We are entertained in a large, handsome reception 
room on the first floor, where we seat ourselves on 
cushions and are served with tea and candy. Then the 
landlad}^ says we may have the privilege of seeing three 
women of the highest rank, who are the favorites of the 
royal household. One by one these distinguished beau- 
ties appear in richest robes and costly jewels. They 
dance gracefully before us, every movement betokening 
delicacy and refinement. These girls are treated with 
the greatest honor, and are surrounded with every lux- 
ury. They neither toil nor spin, yet their glory and 
privileges are equal to any women in Japan. They 
are attended when they choose to walk about the Enclo- 
sure, and when they go into the city, which is seldom, 
their escort is of the highest rank. Their children, it 
girls, are reared to fill positions similar to the mothers. 
We spend an hour in this celebrated domicile, then, 
with an '' Arigato " to our hostess, depart, much wiser 
than we came in matters of this kind. 

I must not omit the Kyomizu-dera (dera or tera, 
Buddhist for temple), whose origin, the guide-book tells 
us, is lost in the mists of ancient fable. There is an 
interesting legend of the goddess Kwannon having ap- 
peared to the novice, Enchin, disguised as an old man, 
and bidding him build the temple, or rather an image 
of the compassionate one (Kwannon), of a log that 
lay before him. After twenty years of great difiiculty 



THE CAPITAL OF FORMER DAYS. 



325 




THE CAPITAL OF FORMER DAYS. 



327 



the work was accomplished, and the warrior, Sakanoe- 
110-Tamura Maro, chancing npon this spot in pursuit of 
a stag, was so struck with the untiring devotion of the 




A DlSTIXGUISHED BkAITY. 



novice that he gave his own house to be pulled down and 

re-erected beside this cascade as a temple for the image. 

We proceed on foot along the road named Kiyomizu, 

in honor of the temple. Hundreds of shops line the 



328 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

street, and here may be found almost any article one 
could name in the china, glass, or pottery line. Here 
are many curiously shaped and decorated cups, plates, 
and vases, and for a few sen the dealer will part with 
any article that meets your f:\nc3\ 

The temple is an odd, ancient-looking structure, built 




Kyomizu-dera, Whose Origin is Lost ix the IMists of Ancient Fable. 

Upon massive piles. Within are many things that in- 
terest us, and we meet scores of sight-seers, as well as 
pilgrims and other worshipers, at the shrine of the 
sacred image. Walls, pillars, ceilings, and ever}^ other 
available spot are lavishly adorned with paintings by 
the old Japanese masters. 



THE CAPITAL OF FORMER DAYS. 



329 



The main temple is dedicated to the " eleven-faced, 
thousand-handed Kwannon," whose image, a little over 
five feet high, is enclosed in a shrine that is opened 
only once in thirty-three years. Lights are always 
kept burning in the temple, and worshipers pass in and 
out all night long. 




Junk Trees are Cared for, Wooden Hoops Sometimes Encircling the 

Branches. 

In our drives we note the artistic manner in which 
the Junk trees are cared for, wooden hoops sometimes 
encircling the branches, which are also trained to rep- 
resent enormous vines. The bamboo groves are also a 
novel sight. These branchless trees, straight as arrows, 



330 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

slioot up to a height of forty or fifty feet, and some of 
them have considerable circumference. Innumerable 
articles may be made of this wood. 

I have scarcely mentioned one of the greatest indus- 




Bamboo Groves are also a Novel Sight. 

tries of Japan — the tea culture. Thousands of acres are 
devoted to this branch of trade. The tea is generally 
gathered by little girls, who are quite expert in pluck- 



THE CAPITAL OF FORMER DAYS. 



33^ 



ing the leaves. When gathered it is baled and shipped 
to a factory, where it is dried by artificial heat, then re- 
packed and sent to all parts of the world. The com- 
mon tea in Japan ranges in price from twenty-five to 
fifty sen a ponnd, while the finer grades command from 
one to seven yen a pound. 




The Tea is Generally Gathered by Little Girls. 

We enjoy much a visit to Kinkakuji, or more prop- 
erly, Rokuonji, a monastery of the Zen sect, which re- 
ceives its popular name from the kinkaku or golden 
pavilion in the grounds attached to it. In 1397 Ashi- 
kaga Yoshimitsu having resigned the title of Shogun 
to his youthful son, built himself a palace at this place. 



332 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

He shaved his head and assumed the garb of a Buddhist 
monk, while still in reality directing the affairs of state. 
The garden is picturesque, with a charming lake in the 
centre, bordered with pine trees, and a little pine grove 
island. The lake is stocked with carp, which are 
accustomed to being fed b}^ visitors^ and will come in 
crowds at the clapping of hands to where the pieces of 
cake or cracker are thrown. These fish are looked 
upon as sacred, and are never caught or killed. 

The " golden pavilion,'' which once shone with daz- 
zling glory, is dull and worn, bereft of all its gold. 
The apartments contain folding and sliding screens, 
and kakemonos by the most celebrated Japanese artists, 
besides relics and autographs of the Shoguns and other 
celebrities. 

The temple of Chion-in stands upon a hill in eastern 
Kyoto. A broad avenue lined with cherr\^ trees leads 
up to it. This temple was founded in 12 ii A. D., by 
Enko-Daislii, who developed a new doctrine, called the 
road to the '' Pure Land," from which a sect, known as 
Jodo, meaning pure land, was named. Ghion-in is the 
principal monastery of this sect. These temples are 
universall}^ simple and imposing, impressing one with 
the solemnity of his surroundings, and, like all the 
others, this one contains many objects of interest within 
its walls. Near it stands the bell tower, completed in 
1618, containing the great bell. The height of this 



THE CAPITAL OF FORMER DAYS. 333 

bell is ten feet eight inches, its diameter is nine feet, it 
is nine and one-half inches thick, and weighs nearly 
seventy-four tons. This bell was cast in 1633. 

I must not omit the San ju sen-gen-do, or the temple 
of the thirty-three thousand three hundred and thirt}- 
three images of Kwannon. Few temples in Japan are 
more interesting. Here are rows upon rows of gikled 
images, all representing the eleven faced, thousand- 
handed goddess of merc}^ There are, however, but 
one thousand large images, the number being obtained 
by including the small effigies on the foreheads, on the 
halos, and in the hands of the larger images. There 
are thirt^^-three spaces between the pillars, which form 
a single row from end to end of the temple. 

We visit also the Shinto temple of Inari, which was 
founded in 711 A. d., when the Goddess of Rice, accord- 
ing to fable, first manifested herself on the hill behind 
the temple. Kobo Deishi, it is said, met an old man 
carr^nng a sheaf of rice on his back, and recognized in 
him the deity of this temple, hence the name Inari, 
which signifies rice man. 

The chief entrance to the temple is by the great red 
torii on the main road, then up a flight of steps and 
through a large gate flanked by immense stone foxes, to 
the Haiden. or oratory ; thence one comes to the chief 
chapel, the pillars of whose portals are plain, the rest 
of the walls and pillars being painted red or white. 



334 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Numberless shrines are attached to this temple, but we 
do not visit them all. 

As we approach the little Oku-no-in we pass through 
more than four hundred small red wooden torii, placed 
so as to form two nearly parallel colonnades, one ascend- 
ing, the other descending. These torii have a very 
peculiar effect, drawn thus in line, being of all sizes 
and states. As each bears an inscription relating to 
the donor, they are monuments to the deceased. 



KOBE, OSAKA, AND NARA 

A Geisha dance — Losses by flood— To Kobe — Nunobiki Waterfalls — 
Iwamoto, the bamboo worker — Osaka — Wrestling match — Satsuma— 
Cotton fields— A first-class compartment — Nara— Avenue of lanterns- 
Tame deer — Temple of Kasuga-no-Miya — Daibutsu — Naraningyo — Re- 
turn to Kyoto— Sobei Kinkozan— Young ladies' school— Kyoto Castle- 
Imperial Palace, 

Quite gayly we enter our jinrikislias and set out for 
the tea house, in which, as we are informed by our 
guide, a first-class Geisha dance is to be held. On our 
wa}^ to this entertainment we pass a street called Zezeura 
Street, which is, we learn, monopolized by the demi- 
monde. We see the frail young people sitting at the 
small windows, some of them looking miserable enough. 
This is a dismal street. The lamp on each house is so 
placed as to cast a bright light upon the inmate, and I 
pity the poor creatures, who seem to have no means 
of escaping their w^retched mode of existence. 

Arriving at the inn, we are ushered into a large room 
on the second floor, where, to our surprise, chairs are 
provided for us. The room is bright and attractive 
with candles and lanterns. The musicians, three girls, 
enter with their respective instruments and sit upon the 
floor in front of us, playing and singing Japanese airs. 
In about twenty minutes six little girls, looking like 

335 



336 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Japanese dolls, appear, and seat themselves between us 
on the floor, and smile and smile, and look so charm- 
ingly innocent that we are completely fascinated. Soon 
one of them rises, and, stepping to the centre of the 
room, begins a gracefnl dance, keeping time with the 
music. Then another rises, and then a third takes her 




The Musicians (Three Girls) Enter and Sit upon the Floor in 

Front of Us. 

turn, and finally the three dance together. Each time 
the movement is of a different character. 

The Japanese dances differ greatl}^ from ours. They 
know" nothing of waltzes, polkas, or quadrilles, but rep- 
resent by their dances some ideal picture, such as the 



KOBE, OSAKA, AND NARA. 



337 



planting, growth, and death of a flower ; the planting 
and harvesting of rice ; a scene in which the lover pays 
his devotion to his lady, and others of a similar natnre. 
After each dance these little tots come before ns with 
profonnd bows, and seat themselves at our feeto The 




The Whole Six Geishas Giv'e us a Beautiful Example of the Various 

Styles of Dancing. 

whole six Geishas give us a beautiful example of the 
various styles of dancing. 

When this part of the entertainment is over a 
sumptuous repast of Japanese food is set before us iu 
Japanese fashion. It consists of rice, rice cakes, and 
rice candy, pickles, fruit, and sake. Tlie dancers and 

22 



33^ VACATION DAYS IM HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

musicians share the banquet with us. As these little 
creatures sit close beside us, for we too are now sitting 
apon the floor, the}^ amuse themselves by admiring and 
touching the jewelry worn by the ladies and gentlemen 
of our party. A young actor now appears with a two- 
handled sword and executes many skillful movements. 
He also imitates the notes of a number of birds and 
animals, as well as different musical instruments, by 
means of a small piece of a leaf held in his mouth. 
His last act is something quite wonderful. He stands 
a bamboo stick about eight feet high and fully three 
inches in diameter upon the floor, and with a single 
stroke of his sword cuts it completel}^ asunder. With 
this act the entertainment closes. The landlady bids 
us sweetly, " Kom-ban-wa," and the Geishas bow their 
heads to the floor and repeat, '' Sayonara," until we are 
in our jinrikishas and have started for home. 

Having seen the most interesting temples and other 
places of note in K3'oto we leave this city for Kobe. 
Tiie recent rains have completely inundated the fields 
along our route, and much property has been destroyed. 
It is estimated that fift}^ million dollars would barely 
cover the losses in southern Japan b}^ these floods. The 
rice fields here are still under from three to five feet of 
water. We arrive at Kobe at 6.20 P. :\r., after a journey 
of two hours and a half, and go to the Oriental Hotel, 
which is under Japanese management, and excellently 



KOBE, OSAKA, AND NARA, 



339 



conducted. The rooms are of good size, fully fur- 
nished, and combine the comforts of an English and 
American hotel. Meals are first-class, and a full brass 
band, composed of Japanese musicians, plan's English 
and American airs during the hours passed in the din- 
ing-room, affording much pleasure to the foreign guests. 




Oriental Hotel, Kobe. 

Although to-day is Sunday, it does not interfere with 
one's plans for sight-seeing. Stores are open and busi- 
ness is transacted without any restrictions whatever. 
Beyond the fact that every city and village in Japan is 
interesting to the foreigner, there is little worthy of 
note in Kobe. We pass through the town on our way 



340 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

to the Nunobiki Waterfalls, and after a half hour's ride 
leave the jiurikishas at the foot of the mountain and 
ascend on foot to the Men-daki, or Female Fall, which 
is forty-three feet high, and is surrounded by tall pine 




Men-daxi, or Female Fall, Kobe. 



trees. Near the fall is a pretty tea house with a fine 
view of the fall from its porch. Here are a dozen 
or more pretty little tea girls, all anxious to serve us. 



KOBE, OSAKA, AND NARA. 



34i 



111 summer, when it is warm enough, the women bathe 
here perfectly naked, for this is their especial bathing 
ground. Farther up the mountain side is the On-daki, 
or Male Fall, eighty-two feet high, which is generally 
reserved for men and bo3^s, although men and women 
bathe together at either fall. These are the Nunobiki 




We Ride Ar.oxc iiii: Buxd or Qt'av. 

Falls. As w^e ride through the streets of Kobe we stop 
at some of the shops and purchase several articles of 
odd patterns and curious workmanship. We then call 
upon the famous and only Iwamoto, whom we find 
engaged in a difficult carving on a bamboo cane. His 
work, very elaborate and highly finished, is generally 



342 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

executed on boxes, canes, and similar objects. He is 
said to excel all workmen in Japan in liis special line 
of carving. 

We ride along the bund or quay, where we see a 
small number of ships. Kobe was opened to foreign 
trade in 1868. When we return to the hotel for tiffin 
we are pleasantly surprised b\^ meeting some friends 
whose acquaintance we made in Yokohama. How 
home-like it is to meet these new acquaintances at the 
various stages of our travel ! They seem like friends 
of long standing. At 1.45 p. m. we take the train for 
Osaka, going, on our arrival, to the Osaka Hotel, which 
is a large building recentl}^ erected b}^ a S3nidicate of 
Japanese capitalists. It is poorly furnished, barn-like 
and uninviting, impressing one witli the idea that all 
the funds were exhausted in builclino' and nothine left 
for furnishing. i\fter depositing our traps in a cheer- 
less room, we start out on a tour of si^rht-seeine. 

Osaka contains many stores of no mean pretensions, 
which offer great inducements to the foreigner. We 
visit the noted Satsuma ware establishment of Yabu 
Aleizan, the most prominent manufacturer in Japan, 
and are shown an inexhaustible stock of this exquisite 
porcelain, and, judging b}^ his exorbitant prices, Yabu 
Meizan is certainl}^ more than an ordinary manufac- 
turer. Small teacups and saucers range as high as 
twenty and thirty 3^en apiece, and even more than that. 



KOBE) OSAKA, AND NARA. 



343 



We have a glimpse of the castle, but do not go in, 
as our time is limited. 

Learning that there is to be a wrestling match at tlie 
" Commons " this afternoon, we repair thither, and find 
fully two thousand spectators, mostly men, assembled 
under an immense canvas tent. When we enter, after 




The Wrestlers are LARor: Fellows, ^jf (iKEAx Wek;ht am> INIusci e. 

paying a small admission fee, the wrestling is quite 
under way. At the most critical points in tlie contest, 
the audience gi\ e vent to their excitement b}^ cries of 
^' Ya ! Ya ! Ya!" They do not applaud with hands or 
feet, as the spectators in such places do in our country. 
The wrestlers are large fellows, of great weight and 



344 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

muscle, and wear only the close-fitting loin cloth. The 
umpire stands near, to settle the contest at the decisive 
moment. These matches may be seen at almost au}^ 
cit}^ in Japan. Gambling and betting are indulged in, 
and they are attended by the lower classes of the 
people. 

We return to the hotel, tired and hungry, to find 
little comfi)rt and poor fare. We leave here to-morrow 
fi)r Nara. We pass a wretched night, as the beds are 
lacking in feathers, hair, or husks, whichever it may 
be, although, from our feelings, the mattresses might 
be made of corncobs. 

We take the ten o'clock train this morning for Nara, 
passing many acres of cotton fields where hundreds of 
men, women, and bo^^s are at work. This section of 
the countr}^ is largely interested in raising cotton and 
manufacturing cotton fal^rics. There are in the neigh- 
borhood, large mills of modern architecture worked by 
the latest and best foreign machiner3\ 

The traveling native is always an object of great 
interest to the foreigner. Here is a prim little maiden, 
sh}^, coy, and proper, sitting gracefully on the car 
cushions, with her dainty feet under her. She never 
flirts or smiles. I speak of the Japanese maiden of 
the first class. The lower classes are much less refined 
in manners and customs. 

We reach Nara at 11.50 without event. Nara was 



KOBE, OSAKA, AND NARA, 345 

the capital of Japan during several reigns, from 
709 A. D. to 784. On our way to the temple of 
Kasuga-no-Miya, we pass through avenues of stone 
lanterns, of which it is said that no one knows the 
number. At various places along the road to the tem- 
ple are small tea houses, at which one can buy cakes 
with wdiich to feed the tame deer that follow the 
wagons. These deer are trained to bow several times 
at the w^ord '' 0-ha3'o.'' (good morning) and always 
expect this reward. Then we ride through a long 
avenue of standing ianterus, many of which are, it is 
said, lighted every night. The temple was founded 
about 767 A. D.. at the request of Take-AIikazuchi, who 
rode to Nara on a white deer in search of a new resi- 
dence, then summoned three other gods to come and 
dwell with him there. The bright red of the different 
temples, and the numberless brass lanterns with which 
the}^ are hung, are in strong contrast to the beautiful 
green of the maguificent cryptomerias which are seen 
everywhere between the buildings. 

After strolling about the grounds for some time we 
return to our jinrikishas and proceed to the temple, 
which contains the largest Daibutsu in Japan. This 
image of Buddha, fifty-three feet in height, is in a sit- 
ting position, with the legs crossed and the right hand 
uplifted. It was cast in 749 A. D. The work is not so 
finely executed as that of the Daibutsu at Kamakura, 



346 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

but it is a wonderful image, and has experienced strange 
vicissitudes. 

We walk about the temple grounds. In the spacious 
courtyard, in front of the Daibutsu, we see an ancient 
bronze lantern, carved in open work with Buddhist 
images and conventional animals. It was executed, it 




We Proceed to the Temi'le, Which Contains the Largest Daibutsu 

IN Japan. 

is said, b}^ a Chinese artist of the eighth centiny, and 
is not only the finest, but the earliest specimen of such 
w^ork in existence. 

We stop at many of the shops about here and make 
purchases, among which are several sword canes. The 



KOBE, OSAKA, AND NARA. 



347 



swords of these canes were made by a famous Japanese 
sword-maker named Saiyo-Kokaji-Munecliika. We also 
invest in some small wooden figures, exquisitely carved 
and colored. These figures are called Naraningyo, and 




Largh:st Daibutsu in Japan. 



are intended to represent the characters in the lyric 
dramas of mediaeval Japanese literature, known as the 
*' No Dances." There is little to interest us in Nara 



34S VACx\TION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

beyond the temples, the Avenue of Lanterns, the Great 
Bell, and the Daibutsn, and having seen these we take 
the train for Kyoto, passing on our journey thither 
nothing worthy of note except the large tea plantations 
for which this section is famous. The most expensive 
tea in Japan is raised here. 

Once more we are in pleasant and comfortable apart- 
ments in the Yania Hotel in Kyoto. After breakfast 
our guide tells us that we have a " big day '^ before 
us, and must make an early start. Our shopping in 
this city must be finished to-day, as we leave tomorrow 
morning at seven o'clock for Shizuoka. 

We visit first the world-renowned Sobei-Kinkozan, 
manufacturer of porcelain and cloisonne, who is most 
attentive to us, and takes great pains to explain and 
show us the entire process of the work. In return for 
his kindness we purchase some of his choicest articles. 

We are then taken to a private dancing and music 
school for young ladies. We are much interested here 
in observing the different methods of instructing the 
young girls in the arts of dancing, music, and needle- 
work. The building is divided into many rooms, and 
the instruction is given by women teachers. In the 
first room which we enter about a dozen girls sit in 
front of a raised platform observing attentivel}^ one 
of their classmates, who is dancing under the individ- 
ual instruction of the teacher. The movements are 



KOBE, OSAKA, AND NARA. 349 

graceful and pretty, and considerable practice is neces- 
sary before the pupil can make either a private or pub- 
lic engagement. We enter many of the rooms. In 
some the girls are being taught to play on different 
instruments, such as the taiko, a sort of drum ; the 
tsuzumi, the gekkin, the koto, and the samisen. These 
little Geishas, as they are called, are often pretty and 
attractive. Their happy and innocent faces would fill 
any house with sunshine. 

A special permit, obtained from the Foreign Minis- 
ter, is required for a visit to the castle. The well 
guarded buildings and spacious grounds are beautiful 
in their simplicit\^ Magnificent paintings, elaborately 
decorated screens and exquisite wood carvings in won- 
derful designs are in the many rooms through which 
we pass. A special permit for each individual is also 
required for the Imperial Palace. Upon entering the 
office each visitor's name is recorded in a massive book 
kept for that purpose. Name, date, residence, and 
occupation must be plainly written before any attention 
is shown the visitor by the attendants. The buildings 
and interior decorations are superb. Many hours 
might be spent admiring the skill of these masters 
who are represented here, each excelling all others in 

his own line of work. 

Note. — The city of K3'oto pays its policemen from six to ten 3'en a 
month, requirino^ them to report for duty every other day. They are 
provided with clothing but not food. 



LAST DAYS IN JAPAN. 

Miyanoshita— A strange shanipooer— The Fujiya Hotel — Bamboo 
canes and American climate— Hot springs — An American breakfast — 
Dogashima — Ynmoto — Yokohama — Farewell to Japan — On board the 
"Coptic" — At sea -The i8oth meridian — Died at sea — First sight of 
land — Cricket -Candy pull — Honolulu— 800 coolies — Leaving Honolulu 
— Betting on the pilot— San Francisco— A snow storm — Summit Station 
— The Rockies —Chicago — Philadelphia. 

We take the earl}^ iiioniiiig train from Kyoto for 
Shiziioka. The journey is but an hour, and our stay 
here is transient, as we leave on the 10.12 A M. train 
for ]\Ii3'anoshita. As we leave the station I observe the 
crowd staring at a calm, dignified Japanese personage 
attended b}' five officers with swords. Upon inquiry I 
learn that this is ]\Ir. Kaba^^ama, the present Home 
Minister of Japan, and late general in the recent Jap- 
anese-Chinese war. 

The ride from Gotemba Station to Oyama lacks 
interest, as mist and rain obscure our view of the beau- 
tiful, majestic Fuji-yama. We arrive at Kozu at half- 
past twelve, and take a horse tram-car to Ynmoto, which 
is the terminus of that line. Here we take jinrikishas 
and ride to ]\Ii3^anoshita, arriving at the Fuji3^a Hotel 
at 5.45 P. M. What we can see of the countr\^ through 
the mist is wild and mountainous. It must be pictur- 
350 



LAST DAYvS IN JAPAN. 



351 



esque and beautiful when the day is clear. The rain 
seems as though it has come to stay, as is usually the 
case with rain in Japan. This hotel is conducted on 
the European plan, and is very elegant as well as 
admirably managed. The rooms are clean, spacious, 
and first-class in every particular. 




View of Tonosawa. 



Last night I engaged a shampooer to give me mas- 
sage night and morning at the rate of twenty-five sen 
an hour. This massage is quite different from that in 
our country, and much less pleasant. The man, who 
assumed the title of a professional, insisted upon put- 
ting his feet on the bed and rubbing me in that man- 



352 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

iier. I objected to liis creeping over my bed, but lie 
said it could be done in no other way. I then took off 
the sheets and told him to give me the treatment on 
the mattress. 

This morning it is still raining, and a heav}^ mist 
hangs over ever\'thing. We had intended remaining 
here a few days to visit the Hakone Lake region and 
take the fLimous Ten Province Pass to Atami, Ijut as 
we are informed by a guest in the hotel that the rain 
has been pouring for several days, and there is no pros- 
pect of clear weather, we decide to pack up and hie 
away to Yokohama. We manage, however, to take in 
some of the scenes about us. The hotel is beautifully 
situated, surrounded by loft}^ mountains whose tower- 
ing peaks seem guarding us. A pretty garden is in 
front of it, and there are lovely walks for those who 
come here in dry weather. Not far from the hotel is 
the village of Mi3^anoshita, a small settlement, com- 
posed almost entirely of shops, where one may pur- 
chase trinkets and souvenirs, inlaid work, canes and 
fancy odds and ends for a few sen. These articles are 
prett}^ and cheap, but let the tourist beware of those 
made of wood, and if he thinks that the clinuite of 
Japan and America are similar, let him take the advice 
of those whom experience has taught otherwise. 
Almost every article of wood when unpacked in 
America is found ruined by shrinking. These articles 



LAST DAYS IN JAPAN. 



353 



are generally made of bamboo, which is susceptible to 
a change of climate. (Out of twenty canes bought of 
Ivvamoto at Osaka, all quite expensive, only one reaches 
Philadelphia in a perfect condition, the others having 
split from top to bottom.) 

We visit the hot springs here, where the men and 




MiYAxosHiTA Road, Near Yu.moto. 

women are seen bathing together, perfectly unconscious 
of their nudity. 

The village of Sokokura is also interesting on 
account of its magnificent scener}^, and because there 
one can indulge in the pleasure and refreshment of 
the hot baths. 
23 



354 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

We leave Mi^^anoshita this morning, after a good 
American breakfast. At this hotel, one can obtain 
beefsteak, lamb chops, eggs, coffee with cream and 
sugar, rolls, butter, and all the delicacies of a first- 
class cafe in our own country. 

The country- around the hamlet of Dogashima is 
beautiful beyond description. Picturesque little villas 
nestle in the forest, and it seems that one could pass 
his life happil}^ in this charming spot. Cascades, large 
and small, wind through the rocks on the mountain 
side. Along the Miyanoshita road the scene is no less 
fair. Can there be a region more beautiful than this ? 

Picturesque Japan offers to artist, poet, scholar, mate- 
rial for the work of a lifetime. We might truly call 
this part of the country a family of mountains, for 
mountains are seen at every turn, and so majestic and 
lofty that man realizes his insignificance in the presence 
of these masterpieces of creation. Farther on is Tono- 
sawa. What a grand panorama is before us ! We pass 
mau}^ of the natives, among them, pretty little maidens, 
quaint and effective bits of color in the landscape. 

We continue on the IMiyanoshita road as far as the 
village of Yumoto, still in the midst of scenes of mag- 
nificent beaut3^ The distant mountains, clad in every 
shade of green, blend their hues with the foliage in the 
foreground, producing a picture of soft atmospheric 
effect, that would inspire the soul of an artist We 



LAST DAYS IN JAPAN. 355 

pass an attractive little inn at Yumoto, and come to 
Sammai-hashi, which has nothing to distingnish it 
from the other villages along the road. Now the moun- 
tains are less high, and the scenery less sublime. We 
cross several bridges and finally arrive at Yokohama, 
where we are cordially received by the proprietor of the 
Grand Hotel, and settle down to a time of rest, varied 
by shopping and preparations for our vo3^age home. 
Ever3^thing earthly must have an end, and so we have 
come to the last da^^s of our visit to Japan. 

Saturday, October loth. — This is the day of our de- 
parture. With packages and bundles, large and small, 
we look our farewell from window and porch, and, with 
our faithful guide, take our last jinrikisha ride to the 
pier, where the hotel steam launch waits to carry us to 
the steamer "Coptic" out in the harbor. The day is 
wet and disagreeable, yet many friends accompany us 
on the launch, and wish us bon voyage on the steamer's 
deck. Promptly at eleven o'clock the gong is heard, 
and the bell rung for visitors to leave the ship. At 
11.30 we weigh anchor, a bell sounds on the bridge, the 
indicator bids us go ahead, and we take a last regretful 
glance at the mountains, valleys, and temples of Japan, 
as they fade forever from our sight. The cabin pas- 
sengers number thirty, all pleasant, congenial people. 
The high winds and rain of the past few days have 
made the ocean rough and unpleasant, in consequence 



356 VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

of which many of the passengers are compelled to re- 
tire to the privac}^ of their staterooms. The rain con- 
tinues through the night and the sea becomes more 
turbulent, causing trunks and bundles to dance about 
our stateroom in a very lively manner. 

At daybreak I look out of my porthole to see what the 
prospect is for clear weather. The waves are pitching 
us about with great force, but the sky is clear, and the 
indications are for a fair day. It is Sunday, but there 
is no service, as nearly every one is too sick to attend. 
Our life on shipboard is much the same from da^^ to day. 
The passengers are by this time over their seasickness, 
and games and other social amusements fill the hours. 

To-night we will cross the one hundred and eightieth 
meridian, and will then pick up the day dropped on our 
journey to Japan. We will retire to-night, it being 
Friday, and wake up to-morrow and still find it Friday, 
but when we leave it this time it will be a day less in life's 
calendar. There are eight hundred steerage passengers 
on board, mostly Chinamen, who are being transported 
to Honolulu on contract, and who will be scattered 
among the various islands for farming and other work. 
We now have the most delightful weather. The sea is 
smooth and the temperature pleasant. 

The chief steward of the vessel died of heart disease 
on Friday night. He had been confined to his bed a 
long time, and was not personally known to the pas- 



LAST DAYS IN JAPAN. 357 

seiigers. The officers of the ship endeavored to keep 
the fact of his death a secret, but the cabin passengers 
were all soon aware of it. Our steamer is like a city, 
where only a wall may separate the extremes of joy and 
sorrow. The steward was buried at sea on Saturday, 
the 17th, at half-past nine in the evening. How solemn 
was the service, and how brief! As his body sank to 
its last resting place I thought of the eyes that had 
taken their last look, the arms which had taken their 
last embrace, and felt a great sympathy for the heart 
left sorrowing and desolate. 

The weather is still delightful. This morning, 
Sunday, October i8th, we have our first sight of land 
since bidding good-bye to Yokohama on the loth of 
the month. The land is Birds' Island. The captain 
at my side assures me that we will be in Honolulu 
to-morrow morning by half-past nine or ten o'clock. 

Have you ever heard of playing cricket on board of 
a steamer ? Well, after leaving Japan, our enthusiastic 
purser made up two full teams, and we have had a 
match from two o'clock till four, every afternoon except 
Sundays. Our games are full of excitement, and we 
enjoy them greatly. 

Last night we had a candy pull, which was a " howl- 
ing success," and made much merriment, although 
more candy was distributed on the chairs and floor 
than among the passengers. 



35^ VACATION DAYS IN HAWAII AND JAPAN. 

Honolulu, October iQtli, 6 A. m. — Before the steamer 
is docked, the eight hundred coolies from Hong Kong 
are transferred to boats, and taken to quarantine close 
by. Having had breakfast on board, we procure a car- 
riage and drive through the most beautiful streets of 
Honolulu, and along the picturesque road to Waikiki. 
We never tire of these charming scenes. Here we 
meet some of the friends w^e made during our visit 
here, and we greet each other with the glad and cordial 
welcome of old friends. 

At four o'clock this same day, we are again on board 
the steamer, with our faces set tow^ard San Francisco. 
What a scene of life and gayety is here as we embark. 
The Government Hawaiian Band, numbering thirty 
pieces, is on the pier playing patriotic airs, wliile a 
party of about twenty Kanakas sing native songs in 
the steamer's saloon. Our friends, as before, bring great 
sweet-scented " leis," and cover our necks and shoulders 
with the fragrant offerings. Amid shouts and cheers, 
music and song, and the minor tones of half-sad, half- 
smiling farewells, the good ship lifts anchor and bears 
us away. 

The voyage to San Francisco is without event. The 
customary diversions fill the hours, and the da3\s repeat 
themselves. 

On Sunda}^, October 25th, at i.io P. M., we sight the 
Farralone Islands. At this point the temperature of 



LAST DAYS IN JAPAN. 359 

the water is 50°, while the atmosphere is 60° These 
islands are but twenty-eight miles from the harbor of 
San Francisco. Now the pilot's yacht comes into sight, 
and as the passengers crowd forward to catch a glimpse 
of this important personage, the men entertain them- 
selves by betting which foot he will place first on the 
steamer. There is much laughter when he leaps on 
deck, planting both his feet on the boards at once. All 
bets are declared off, amid roars of merriment. 

Now the doctor and Custom House officers are re- 
ceived on board. It is Sunday, and we are all disap- 
pointed to learn that we can take onlv our hand grips 
on shore. Trunks and larger pieces of baggage are to 
await the inspection of the officers on Alonday. At six 
o'clock we go ashore, and after mutual farewells we 
wend our wa}^ once more to the Palace Hotel. 

Alonda}^, October 26t]i. — This morning we return to 
the steamer and have our baggage passed, and so ends 
the long voyage from Yokohama to San Francisco, a 
distance of five thousand and fifty-eight miles. We 
spend three da3's in San Francisco, then start on Fri- 
day, the thirtieth of the month, by the Southern and 
Union Pacific road for Chicago, thence over the Ke}^- 
stone Limited to Philadelphia. After leaving Sacra- 
mento we pass through miles and miles of snow-sheds. 
Snow fell last night, and the ground is covered with its 
winter coat. The peaks and sides of the Sierra Madre 



360 VACATION DAYS IN PIAWAII AND JAPAN. 

loom Up white and glistening. We travel comfortably 
in the drawing-room of our Pullman car. 

Saturday. — It is 12.55 ^- ^^-i ^^^^ ^^'^ ^^'^ approaching 
Humboldt Station. The wind is blowing a gale and 
tearing the autumn foliage from the trees. Looking 
across the plain we see a grand snowstorm. Dust and 
sand are drifting through the cars, although we are 
protected by double windows. Eyes and noses are sen- 
sitive to this, and we begin to sneeze. 

At Winnemucca Station rain and snow are still dom- 
inant, and the air is chilly and unpleasant. We arrive 
at Ogden on schedule time. The snow is four or five 
inches deep, and it is still snowing. The Rocky 
Mountains gleam out white and ghostly in their fleecy 
robes. Since leaving Sacramento our ascent has been 
constant. At Summit Station we reach an altitude of 
seven thousand and seventeen feet, then gradually de- 
scending we come to Ogden, where the elevation is 
four thousand three hundred and oue feet. From 
Ogden we again ascend to Sherman Station, the highest 
point on this route, eight thousand two hundred and 
forty-seven feet above the level of the sea. We make 
a gradual descent from here until we reach Chicago, 
which is only five hundred and ninety feet above sea 
level. Thus far the journey across the conntr}^ has 
been monotonous and the scener}^ uninteresting. We 
are now passing through Echo Canon. The long 



I. AST DAYS IN JAPAN. 36 1 

range of the Rockies does not attract one, and the only 
beauty in the landscape here is the cr^^stallization of 
the ice and snow upon the trees and bushes. The 
forms are as varied as those of a kaleidoscope, and one 
may gaze and gaze and see ever new shapes of glisten- 
ing light. 

Here and there an old Conestoga is drawn up a short 
distance from the road, its occupants evidently enjoy- 
ing a rest, and the horses unharnessed and hitched to 
the wagon, while through the roof projects a stove- 
pipe, from which the smoke is curling gently heaven- 
ward. What a sea of desolation, and apparently far 
from civilization ! 

We reach Chicago Tuesday, November 3d, at 7.40 
A.M., only five minutes ahead of schedule time, having 
traveled more than two thousand three hundred miles 
without changing cars. W^e leave Chicago at eleven 
o'clock and arrive in Philadelphia at 12.17 p. m. on 
Wednesday, November 4th, thus happily terminating 
a delightful journey of nearly seventeen thousand 
miles without accident. 



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